Hi Everyone,

Mine is a 2003 V70 2.5T AWD. I am just about to roll 120K miles. I am fairly well up to speed on the AW 55-50 tranny issues and know that Volvo states the ATF is "lifetime" fill.

I am curious on peoples thoughts about the recommended frequency of ATF changes? The tranny had a fluid change at 45K under warranty when we had the shift flare issue. The dealer also did a software update at the same time. Then I did a fluid change using the IPD kit at about 110K.

I have heard every 50K is good but, wondering as the car gets older if every 30K is better or a waste of time/money.

The car gets light duty. The only issue I have is an occasional cold hard "garage shift" first thing in the morning when temps are below 30*. Otherwise it performs well and bangs off nice firm shifts when putting the power down.

Thanks

Bob

 

"lifetime fill" is true, but manufacturers seem to define "life" as about 100k miles. Me, I push it closer to 300k or beyond whenever possible, so I change it. For better reason, look at this video about an AW55-51SN, which I understand to be VERY similar to the AW55-50SN in our V70's. Useful tidbit is around 4:50-5:20 in the video

At your mileage, some folks will say don't change it because it can knock stuff loose. Me, I tend do a drain/refill of the tranny fluid with Mobil 3309 (identical to the Volvo fluid). I'd change it at the same time I change the engine oil for the next few cycles. IMO, if the transmission dies because this "shocks" the transmission, then it was on it's last leg anyway. Maybe don't do it right before a long trip would be my only advice.

 

I think doing an "IPD kit flush" occasionally as your transmission gets older is smart maintenance. I don't worry about that creating the problems you hear about with a "tranny shop flush", since it doesn't force fluid to flow in ways that it doesn't do anyway, every time you drive the car (you're just pumping it out of one of the cooling lines). It also does a much better job changing the fluid than a drain-and-refill, since you can't drain more than about half the fluid in the tranny.

The other thing I'd recommend is to install an external, in-line magnetic filter in the cooling line when you have it off to do the IPD kit flush. This will help capture the gunk that can cause those linear solenoids to fail, and can help make up for a past-its-prime internal filter in the transmission (that can't be changed without dropping the tranny).

That said, I don't know what the best change interval would be. It would seem that the interval would get shorter as the transmission gets more miles on it, since it would probably create more gunk and debris per mile as the miles pile on. I did a full flush about 10,000 miles ago, but did a few thousand miles of heavy towing since then, and am considering doing another IPD kit flush before long (my tranny has over 220,000 miles on it). In my case, the towing seemed to create enough gunk to cause my linear solenoids to stick, causing a 2-3 gear flare. I was going to rebuild the solenoids, but not driving the car for 10 days seems to have fixed the problem (I'm assuming the residual magnetism faded, and the metallic gunk was flushed away by the first burst of tranny fluid).

I don't think there's anything wrong with a 30,000 mile interval for a fluid change, but at only 120,000 miles, and with two flushes already done, I wouldn't have any problem waiting to 50,000 miles, unless you're towing or otherwise stressing your tranny regularly.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Since the tranny gets light service and fluid has been changed twice already I think I will stay at a 50K interval. Agreed the IPD kit is the way to go. Last time I went through about 14 or 16 quarts of Mobil 3309. Also got a quart or 2 of Toyota Type IV from the local dealer for the final top-off.

I am very interest though in details about the Magnefine filter. What size and should I install in the cooler feedline or return line? Since those are relatively cheap and easy to change, maybe do those on a 25K interval.

Bob

 

It's funny - I just checked my Rockauto.com invoice and it lists this as the part number I ordered:

ACDELCO Part # TF101M

That doesn't really look like the filter I got, and it doesn't mention being magnetic. So I wouldn't take that information to the bank. I do remember that when I ordered the filter, it was listed as a close-out, and that the filter did say it was magnetic (don't recall the brand though, and now it's in a tight, dark place on the car).

But as long as the inlet and outlet barbs on the filter fit the tranny cooler line hose, it should work fine. Magnefine offers several sizes, so it should be cake.

I put mine on the cooler feedline (the one I used for the flush) since it's a lot more accessible than the outlet line - and it shouldn't matter a bit which one the filter goes in, since it's all in-line.

 

I'm planning on doing this soon, but how does one properly check the fuel level? I've done the idle for a few minutes and then slowly gone through the gears prior to checking it but the levels aren't consistent. That is my only hesitation with attempting to do the transmission flush.

 

If anyone figures this out, I'd love to know... it's really hard to get a good reading on that itty bitty little dipstick, and once you do pull it out, it seems to coat the inside of the tube it lives in with fluid, so it smears it all over for the next reading. I took a few readings over a few days and determined that it was at least reasonably close, and then when I did the IPD kit flush, it was just 2.0 quarts out, 2.0 quarts in - repeated five or six times until it was running clean and clear (OK, red...).

 

Well, hopefully you don't have fuel in your transmission, LOL, but to check the fluid level, you do it with the engine warmed up and running. In my experience, you MUST wear a glove to avoid burning yourself. Seeing the fluid on the dipstick may require you to look carefully, but I haven't had any troubles in that area myself.

The first time, it took me a good 20 minutes or so to even FIND that darn dipstick. I've never seen a worse choice for a dipstick location. It appears to have been an afterthought.

 

What is a average range for shop to charge to do ""IPD kit flush"???

 

really depends on the method. on older Volvos the factory procedure is to open the lines at the transmission cooler and start/stop the engine every 2 quarts or so to let the transmission pump out the old fluid while adding new fluid. I'd expect this to run 2 hours labor plus materials plus 10-12 quarts fluid - so $400 would be what I'd expect. The other option is to do a simple drain/fill. Here the procedure is simply to open the drain plug and refill to the amount that was drained. This procedure can be done in less than an hour and you only replace about half the fluid (about 4-5 quarts ) so I'd expect $150 for this procedure (100 for labor, 50 for the juice)

Note the IPD "kit" is a set of hoses and buckets that let you open the transmission cooler line so you can do your own full flush at home.

In terms of which do you do - it depends on what your goal is. If you are doing the fluid change because the transmission is acting up, then I'd recommend a shop that will drop the transmission pan and inspect for any deposits/debris before refilling. If its routine maintenance and you are not doing the work at home, then you may want to consider a full flush.

 

There is no pan to drop in our transmissions. There's a drain plug with a 17mm hex head which is unscrewed.
The drain plug gaskets for both the transmission drain plug and oil drain plug are the same.
They're 18mm aluminum and are mistakenly called "washers".
Remember to buy the pair of O ring seals ahead of time as they are specific. The ones I bought were yellow and plumper.

Keeping fluids clean by periodic drain & fills is the way to go with all systems.

I pumped out a neglected transmission in a 1999 V70 but drained & refilled the sump first. This begins the process with fresh fluid and the black fluid changed to clear red after only 7 quarts. Since dirt is said to accumulate in the torque converter I simply followed up with drain & fills.
Nobody knows the rate (volume/time) at which fluid is pumped through the torque converter in a running engine so continuing the pump out process to achieve "perfect clear red" is wasteful.
You have to check the fluid's condition periodically after you get it to a clean state. I feel subsequent sump drain & fills accomplishes this. The fresh fluid will get into the TC and dissolve dirt over time.

So, after a pump out a drain & fill after 10K-20K may be revealing.
My current '07 and previous '02 had had their fluid serviced so drain & fills alone are all I needed to do to reach an acceptable level of clarity.
I add LubeGard (red bottle) in the suggested dosage (1 oz./system quart) and swear by it.

In the case of both the P1 and P2 Volvos, the radiators' top cooling line connection is the one you disconnect.
The cooling line in the P1 is the one which gets the extension hose to the catch jug.
In the P2's, you have to fashion a drain hose to the radiator side. Shim out 5/8 clear plastic tubing with electric tape.

Hope some of this helps. Either way (pump out or drain & fill) is easy to do.
The single "hardest part" is pulling the cooling line out after depressing the catches on the green plastic clip.