Hello:

I just got back from Mississippi and picked up my Volvo S80. ( I live in Florida). The interior is immaculate , however the exterior has a couple of door dings on bothe sides. I do not mind it because i got a SWEET deal on this car. However, i do have one question about Volvos in general. The car is super quiet, but i did notice that when i popped the hood while the car was running, the motor had a slight tapping noise. I do not think it was a valve tap as i have had a few cars in my day and know what that sounds like.

I guess i am looking for peace of mind here. Do Volvo engines have an ever so slight tapping noise? Is that normal? If it was a tapping issue, would the message center tell me that there was something wrong?

Like i said, i really do not think it is a valve issue, but I had to ask.

This car runs great.

I noticed the same exact noise coming from the engine. I bought my S80 last month. I think it's normal. Car runs and drives great. Must be a characteristic of the engine type/design. I was going to ask the same thing!
On my Acura Legend, you could barely hear the engine running it was so quiet.

Let's see what other responses we get.

Thank you for the reply. When i posted it yesterday morning and came home from work at the end of the day, nobody had replied yet and I thought "this can not be a good sign". But if you are hearing it too either that is a good sign or we are both going to be spending a lot of money in the future. [sm=jawdrop.gif]

I still feel really good about the car. It is in excellent shape other than that. And i only paid 7500.00. [sm=happybounce.gif]

I replyed yesterday but some how it got lost.Keep an ear on it.Most of the time if it is loud and gets any louder it would be the oil pan o-rings.If you ever get a message about low oil pressure that is another sign.As long as you oil is full if you ever get that message the o-rings are going bad.The injectors on these cars are pretty loud.Like I said keep and ear and eye out.

tech,
so far, the oil level has not changed in about 2k miles. It is also clean. I will keep checking the level perdiodically.
The sound does seem like it's coming from the injectors. What about the valve train up top? Does this engine use hydraulic or mechanical valves? Are there any issues with oil circulation up in that area?

Your car could have either manual or hydraulic.They started in 1999 with manual and then later changed to the hydraulic.The only crculation problems was when the oil pan o-rings went bad.

ok, cool - thanks for clarifying that. It does appear that the 2001 S80's use hydraulic tapet valves.
Are the o-rings expensive/easy to replace, if they do go bad?

They are labor intensive so it will cost a some money to replace them.

eli, did you get your car fixed? and how costly was it? i just got a '99 s80 T6 and am a little concerned with maintenance costs.
thanks

ORIGINAL: dreamcars80

eli, did you get your car fixed? and how costly was it? i just got a '99 s80 T6 and am a little concerned with maintenance costs.
thanks


I didn't get my car fixed because it runs perfectly. I was only concerned about what seemed to be a louder than normal engine idle (it idles just fine). It looks like it is just a characteristic of this engine. I never had an oil leak problem. I was just being proactive, in case something happens like this. ;)

Perhaps toetag got his fixed?

How difficult is it to replace the oring yourself.

It is really not all that bad but time consuming.You have to remove the entire oil pan.Sometimes you have to drop the subframe some to get it out.

yea i was wondering about that tapping sound too, I have a 2000 model and it only makes that tapping sound at really low idling (700 rpms). hopefully the o-rings will stay intact for now...

Jonathan

Hi, I'm back! The transmission problem I was having, as tech might remember, was just some computer code problems because of the disconnected battery. Now I have a whole new problem. It looks like I have a bad alternator (on a 1999 Volvo S80 2.9). I would have thought it was just a bad battery, but after giving it a small charge, and trying to get home, I sputtered for half a mile in and out of power, and then stalled. (Of course, 830 at night, 3 blocks from home). It also turns out that the dealership did not give me the Master Key to my car...they only acquired the Service Key, which will not allow access to the trunk manually. If I have no battery power, I cannot open the trunk electronically. We called up a friend, and He gave instructions on hooking the battery of a good car up to the front end fuse box of my car. This gave me enough power to open the trunk with the key ring, then jump it, give it some power, and drive it home. The best prices I have found on a new alternator are in the range of 350 dollars. If anyone has any other ideas as to solving this problem, they would be greatly appreciated. I'm 17, and I've had this car for not even 2 months...HELP! :D

Where have you checked for prices?
Are you going to replace it your self?

My friend will be able to replace it for me. I have only checked local stores, and all of the prices are between 345 and 370 before labor. I wouldnt really want a rebuilt one.

They are pretty pricey check everywhere you can.
Whe your friend replaces it tell him it will be easier to remove the upper radiator hose.
He might have to push the motor back some to get the old one out and the new one in.

Also do you know about the lock cylinder in the trunk?

ORIGINAL: toetag

Hello:

I just got back from Mississippi and picked up my Volvo S80. ( I live in Florida). The interior is immaculate , however the exterior has a couple of door dings on bothe sides. I do not mind it because i got a SWEET deal on this car. However, i do have one question about Volvos in general. The car is super quiet, but i did notice that when i popped the hood while the car was running, the motor had a slight tapping noise. I do not think it was a valve tap as i have had a few cars in my day and know what that sounds like.

I guess i am looking for peace of mind here. Do Volvo engines have an ever so slight tapping noise? Is that normal? If it was a tapping issue, would the message center tell me that there was something wrong?

Like i said, i really do not think it is a valve issue, but I had to ask.

This car runs great.


Another possibility is lifter-tick. My S70 has a similar noise and I always associated it with lifter-tick on my DSMs. Sounded like a muted sewing machine. Going to a heavier weight oil is a temporary fix, it's not really a problem per se, just annoying.

Tech:

I've looked all over...and that was pretty much the going rate. He is certain he can get to it. From what he saw, he was going to have to move the computer (and disconnecting the battery) to get to the alternator, and then changing it out. He's going to get the part tomorrow and install it tomorrow or thursday. If you have any tips for him, I can convey the message.


PS No I don't know about the lock cylinder. What is it?

I realized that I can jump it from the front, and do not need direct access to the battery...just using the fuse box in the front with a standard ground will do the same.

There is a lock cylinder mounted in the trunk lid for you to use your key to open it when the battery is dead.As long as it is not a valet key.

Tech,

I guess you missed my original post. It turns out the dealership only gave me the service (valet) key, and not the master. I discovered this when I A) couldnt manually open my trunk using the cylinder, and B) can lock the glove compartment.

Ok yes sorry I overlooked that somehow.
I would try to make them get you a new key for free.Use the fact of what happened and you couldn't get in the trunk.

Attempted...the dealership said If the original owner didn't have it, I would be responsible to replace it myself. (Which is BS).

I agree they should pay for it them selves!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am currently having the same issue, and am also taking business law this semester. I spoke with my professor about my specific issue which is exactly the issue you are having. Legally they are responsible to provide you with a master key because the master key performs functions which the valet can not. You may sue and recover the amount for the key plus 3 times your hardship costs. They have a civil liability to you as a merchant to provide you with a fully functional vehicle. Check out the federal trade commissions website. This should help you. You can file in small claims court for @ $19, depending on where you live.

Well I'll offer for them to acquire me a key, and not push the hardship-costs...yeah it took me an hour to jump the car to open the trunk and then drive the three blocks up to my house...I don't think thats quite considered hardship costs. What is the article number of the law that tells me they have to provide it?

Go the Federal Trade Commission website and read their guidelines. Dont know the site name of hand but it will come right up when you do a search. My computer is acting up and it has been loading what it wants to. It doesn't state specifically anywhere that they must provide you with a master key. They must provide you with what they know to be needed in order to operate the car. As a merchant they have a duty to know, (like a doctor knows how to prescribe medicine), and to let you as the consumer know. For the purposes which you purchased the vehicle, (ie. a fully functional and accessible vehicle), the vehicle is inoperable, but sold as the opposite. I would sue for damages. You are entitled to recieve some compensation. Hope this helped.

Not to mention that you have had the car for two months, you are still covered under the lemon law. Personally I wish I had never bought this car. It has been a nightmare. My sister has the same car but turbo and she has had numerous problems also. i have done alot of research on Volvo cars from 99-01, and those are definately the years to stay away from.

You will find that treble damages are difficult to prove in small claims. In fact I truly doubt that you could obtain them under UCC. Fraud and the like are difficult to prove....................of course the cost of a key will not be offset by the cost of litigation. You will find that the court will not hear a small case such as what you are proposing and as I earlier indicated..................small claims will be a difficult venue to collect treble damages.

I'm just going to demand that they purchase a new key (a master key) for me, and if they do not, I don't have a choice except to buy a new one myself.

You hit it on the nose!! Sometimes you simply have to swallow and bite the bullet. You might explore other avenues such as your better business bureau and the like. Perhaps you could bring some heat through those entities. You will also find that Volvo does not offer much via their warranties...............it always seems that your problem is an "adjustment" and of course that is not covered. My local dealer does treat me quite well................I suppose it is because I have three autos serviced by them and they want the business.

Back to the topic of S80's, anyone who knows the power steering belt and that area:

So the process started with removing the cover off the computer box, and then moving the box after unbolting it from the frame. Then we had to take the cover off of the timing belt to gain access to the PS belt attached to the AC compressor. Then the belt was stuck at the very bottom of the AC and couldn't be squeezed through. I needed a new one, anyway, so that wasnt a problem. We just sliced it. After that, we discovered that the alternator is bolted twice to the AC compressor and once to the power steering pump. After unbolting it, we also realize there is no room to move it. We disconnected the power steering tubing, and held it to keep the fluids from running out. Then we move the oil pan cylinder and took out the alternator.

The question I have is what is the best way to re-attach the power steering belt?

You will have to remove the lower crank pulley outer part.There is 2 13mm bolts that hold the outer part of the pulley on.Once you remove the 4 screws the outer peice will fall off.Install the belt and then install teh outer peice.

FYI: in the future you don't need to remove the computer cover.You also don't need to remove the timing belt cover.

We couldn't figure out how to get the serpentine (I hope i spelled that right) belt off without removing it. I was unable to reach the tensioner without taking it off. Also, for some reason, the very bottom pulley that the belt was on was wedged against the bottom of the frame and made it nearly impossible to take the belt off. Any advice as to how to get it back on down there?

Do you mean the pulley was rubbing on the subframe?
I really don't understand what you are saying.

Lift the car on the passenger side(right side) and remove the tire.There is a cover held on bye two plastic nuts.Remove the nuts then fold the plastic cover up towards the front of the car.
Then you will see the lower crank pulley setup.You will need to remove the 4 screws holding the outside part of the pulley on.Then the outer peice will fall off.It is pretty much flat.I have inserted a drawing I made in paint it looks something like it.Excuse the drawing it was fast but should give you the idea of what to look for.

If you have anymore trouble let me know.

Once you remove the outer part of the pulley it will give you plenty of room to install the serpentine belt.

local://upfiles/853/00904C1F423C47998D50B2A87D6E14EB.gif

Actually, that's what we had to end up doing. The problem was that we had to pull back the wheel well cover to take off the outer part of the pulley. After doing this, we had alot of trouble getting the timing belt cover (which we found out really didn't need removing) on properly. The cover was pressed up againt the timing belt and squeaking because the cover wasn't propped up onto the pulley assembly correctly (It was tucked inside the outer plate). After 4 hours of labor (I wonder what the book time is on that?) The car is running in near perfect condition...

Again, with the S80 questions..Now I have the same problem with my key getting stuck in the ignition...but It doesn't have to do with the shiftlock or the brake, because depressing either does nothing. Instead, the key gets entirely stuck into the tumbler. I have already had this looked at once, and I can't just leave my key in the car...my battery will drain. Any assistance, or should I take it to the dealership and work out alot of the problems I've been having?

Does the key return all the way back like it is supposed to?

Try spraying a tad of WD-40 in the cylinder.

Also try playing with the shifter.If the shifter is not 100% in park and pushed all the way foward the key will not turn all the way back.

There is a cable that runs from the ignition switch to the shifter.Thats why you can't turn the car off and remove the key with it in gear,

I tried the WD-40 and still fiddled with it for about 15 minutes...and finally it came loose....and now there's no resistance. I may have broken whatever was in my way. The keylock isn't broken because it still has to be in (P) and the brake depressed for the key to come out. I'm going out of town at the end of the week, and leaving it with the dealership...and hopefully they can solve the problem. I'm also having them take a look at the transmission slippage.

Question: Since the tranny is adaptive, could it take a little while for it to completely adapt to my driving (especially if I speed alot, and drive slow in towns? Lol..)

It might take a little while but not to long.Mention it to the dealer and they will probably make sure the software is all updated.

Alright thanks...i'll do that.

Keep me posted.

Tech,

When my traction control activates (when tires slip) on my 99' S80, there is a rough, unpleasant sound. Sounds like alot of metal grinding on metal. It isn't sharp, but just rough, and also sounds like an expulsion of air (don't really know how to explain it.) All of the lights dim because I guess it uses a good amount of power. Is this a problem?

-John

The traction control is noisy.I bet is sounds almost like the abs.Have you activated the ABS on your car yet?
If not I would reccomend to do it in a safe enviroment.Just so you know what it feels like.So that if you ever need to use it you know what to expect.
I would say the traction control thing is normal.

This may be pre-mature, but how do you "activate" the ABS? I just assumed it was an all-time system. I know that I can turn the Trac-Control on and off, though.

I mean on an old back road safely drive about 35MPH and slam on the brakes and you should feel it kick on.