These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

local://upfiles/853/6C06AEC926B8480CB3D9B9F6BD9DB835.jpg

local://upfiles/853/6ADF2312E71D4D92ADF58D6501866923.jpg

local://upfiles/853/B8C61FE448CA41539487BCF3C436B147.jpg

one note I would strongly rec. staying away from razor blades ,scrapers and any sharp objects when cleaning the pan and engine block surface no grinding !!!. These surfaces are zero clearance any damage and they will not seal properly. when installing the chemical gasket becareful not to use to much, a light film as i said it is a zero clearance fit! thanks

FYI there is a special disc that can be purchased that can be used to grind the old liquid gasket off.
It is a special disc for cleaning aluminum.

Tech - thanks for posting the instructions on replacing the oil pan o-rings.

I recently took my S70 to a dealership to diagnose a loud ticking noise that comes and goes. Its especially noticable at stop lights.
The lead tech told me that the oil pan o-rings had to be replaced and that it was the cause of the ticking lifter noice.

Is this possible? Or is he miss diagnosing the problem?

may have missed it, but didnt see in your instructions to replace the pickup tube o-ring.. that is a vital

I did say to make sure to replace it above.
Didn't make instructions on it because it is only 2 screws to get the pipe out.
If you went through the entire rest of the process and couldn't figure out how to get the pipe out then one shouldn't attampt the job.
Nothing against you just a comment.

Johnny I would say the o-rings are bad as well.

ok thanks for the info

I am having a small garage doing this job for me, however, I am going to provide all the parts that needs replacing, could someone possibly give me a list of things?

ok so just to have more info

I need a new oil pan o ring, new engine oil, oil fliter, what else?

Thanks

You will need the oil pan o-ring kit.
Sealer that is very expensive.
Pick up tube kit if you don't buy the kit.

Any chace those pics still exist somewhere? Looks like this will be my weekend project. Also, it appears that all the autoparts stores have a bent against Volvo...none carry any reapair manuals. Since I'll have to order one, which would you recommend? I usually just pick up a Haynes.

Thanks.

1998 S70 GLT

I will have to dig them up not sure why they are not working.

Bump. Still waiting for the pics if you have them.

Sorry this is the best I can come up with right now. I had them saved on my PC and it crashed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/mustang8719/oilpan.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/mustang8719/oilpan1.jpg

It sure isnt as easy as the instructions!
I have a 98 V70 I am doing this too- cant the pan loose but cant get it down!!
I have PS lines in the way- I undid all the clamps but I still cant get it out!
Its like the pan needs to come straght down- Im hitting lines on one side and fram rail on the other!
What am I missing???

You also have to work it around the pick up tube.

Got it out- had to bend the tab out of way. Going to be interesting putting it back up!
This poor car- what a mess inside. The center of the pickup tube was pretty much plugged- I sure hope it cures my lifter noises! I had a tom of oil coming up into head just maybe not enuff pressure.
Well let everyone know if it lives or not...

FInished it up today- thought I fixed it bu realized the noise from the long bolt hitting the flywheel was covering up noise. OOOPS! the rear center bolt on pan wasnt right- must have put the wrong one in. I took that out and that quieted down- do I need that bolt? theres like 30 others!

Anyway- my lifters are a little quieter but still way to loud. I suspect they may be clogged judging by what the pan looked like.

SO whats the next step? New lifters?

Which bolt exactly? One the flywheel? If so then it was not in there right.

Did you drive it afterwords? Sometimes you need to drive it for a little while to make sure all the lifters are pumped back up.

It was one of the long oil pan bolts at trans side of oil pan in the center. There are like 4 long ones back there.

I ran it for a while varied the speed but cant drive it until i get tires- I have cords showing. Its a project car- but I want to get the engine stuff done before I venture off in to suspension land.

Does it hurt to run these with noisy lifters?

Not really as long as you have alot of oil flowing under the oil cap.

For the bolt try to put it in again. It might not have been straight.

Back story to this DIY is that I replaced the CRANKCASE-VENTILATION/OIL SEPARATOR but in the process incorrectly replaced this O-ring, which lead to further oil leaks from where the dipstick guide enters the oil pan. It took me a while to figure it out that I screwed up the o-ring replacement at that time. WhenAcai Berry Juice Health Juice Berries Benefits Teaching Children with Autism Program Poems Behavior Treatment Center (http://www.acai.vg) I recently removed the dipstick guide no o-ring was there. Ugh... Its been leaking oil at that spot for the past 40,000 miles. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/facepalmsmiley.gif My mistake the first time around was that I seated the o-ring into the oil pan hole, then pushedHunstsville Smartlipo (http://www.huntsvillesmartlipo.com) the dipstick guide in, which always chops that o-ring. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/cursin.gif

Use the following mini-DIY at your own risk.

This is a guide to replace just the o-ring on the end of the dip stick guide that goes into the oil pan.

Buy a couple of the o-rings. They are easy to tear and cheap.

so how many o-rings need to be replaced all together? I mean what comes in set?
eeuroparts sells them separately (2 different sizes, 20mm and 31mm) and gasket/sealant is $13, i hope dealer is not much more than that.

There will be 5 total. 2 between the oil pan and block. Then 1 for the oil pickup tube. Then 2 more for the pipe that goes from the top of where the oil filter it to the bottom back side of the oil pan.

thanks tech...I am helping my friend do this on his volvo this weekend, let u know the outcome.

happy to report that my friends car runs like a champ now. We replaced 2 oil pan seals and 1 for the pick up tube, thats all. Not sure about those other 2 seals you were talking about (above the filter and down to oil pan:confused:, couldnt find that pipe) but this was enough. Maybe that is only on turbo models, this one was just regular 2.4 non-turbo?!
Anyway, it turned put to be a cheap fix (less than a $100 altogether: seals, gasket and oil filter were picked up from dealer and than 6 quarts of oil from autozone).
Tech, thanks for the writeup ;)

Then it must have had the metal screw on filter.
Glad all is good.