I removed the access cover in the trunk over the sending unit, but found that there is another piece of sheet metal blocking access to the unit. Has any one else ran into this problem and can give any ideas how to remove it. The vehicle is a 1992 240 4dr sedan


Thanks

 

Hi Gary,

How much work is it worth to you to fix this sensor? That next cover you describe is a round plate to the top of the gas tank. There should be two hoses, one from the in-tank fuel pump that goes to the main fuel pump and the other is a fuel return hose. Then there are three wires, fuel pump, gauge sending unit and ground. You will need a special tool to remove that ring without destroying it (do not pry it up, it twists off) and then you will need a new o-ring, and while it's apart you might as well replace the in-tank pump.

Removing those hoses might also be a chore because some of them are just fuel line with clamps, and others might have a high-pressure line that is shrunk onto the fitting. Then, there's the task of removing the assembly without dropping the float ball into the tank. I have changed four of those pumps on four different 240s and have encountered four different combinations of the hoses. I also dropped the ball in my 88 wagon but no big deal, I got a new ball (a wine cork will also work) but there's this annoying ball bouncing noise from the tank as I ride every time I fill it up. Oh yeah, there's also the possibility that the fittings are rusty and either leak gasoline when you're done, or break off entirely as you remove the hoses. I think the pump is around $60, and the whole assembly (if you break the fittings is around $200. Are you sure the sending unit is bad and not a problem with the wires or the dashboard? I think the pump wire is brown and the sensor wire is grey (please check this out elsewhere in case my memory is failing me). If you have a full tank and the key is on (all idiot lights are on) but the engine isn't running, you could short (momentarily) the grey wire to ground and if the gauge moves up to "full tank" then maybe the sensor really is bad. If nothing happens even if you keep it shorted to ground a little longer, then look elsewhere for the problem, the in-tank sensor is probably good. Good Luck,

HG

 

HG,


Thank you for your response. After I located the right access hole, I discovered that the ceramic piece that the wires are connected to had broken off from the top of the sending plate that holds the sending unit and fuel pump. You were right about the fitting being rusted, the return line fitting broke off when I was removing the line from it. I am going to attempt to make a tool to remove the retaining ring from the trunk. If this does work, I will drop the tank so I can have better access for working on the ring. I have purchase the complete unit, fuel pump, O ring and a new retainer ring for under $200.


Gary

 

Hi Gary,

Now that you have the new parts, you know what they look like. I usually take an old toothbrush and a shop-vac in reverse so it blows to clean off everything BEFORE I take it apart so dirt and rust don't fall in the tank. I don't use the shop-vac in vacuum mode because of the small possibility of sucking up gas fumes and then they ignite from the sparks inside the shop-vac motor. I think removing the tank is overkill. Let the old plate and ring soak a while with liquid wrench, and then use this tool to remove the ring.

Volvo Fuel Tank Bung Nut Tool IPD 106653 T5169

The ring only needs to turn counterclockwise a small amount and you will see where the tabs will line up so you can remove the ring.

Good Luck.

HG