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If I post fault code's could someone help?

  #21  
Old 02-18-2014, 12:34 PM
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Ah you have that style. And you're missing the part that moves the slide release.

Just slide them until they release. If they come out, put them back in..
 
  #22  
Old 02-18-2014, 12:40 PM
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Thanks, I was worried I would break them if I forced them to far. They do slide towards the pass. side a little but there not releasing this plug socket. I will give it a little more energy, I hope I don't break them. Is there anything else I should be aware of when removing the seat, other than removing the neg. batt. cable? Thanks again for all your continued help.
 
  #23  
Old 02-18-2014, 01:24 PM
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Nope, as long as the battery is disconnected, you're fine. And even that doesn't have to be done.
 
  #24  
Old 02-18-2014, 02:27 PM
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No way? I would have never thought that with all the nightmare threads about pulling plugs when the batt. is hooked up. I did it anyway before i tore into the seat. Hope that by doing that i didn't screw anything up. Thank you ES6T, I will post some pictures of what I found in the seat back if you like?
 
  #25  
Old 02-18-2014, 04:42 PM
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Disconnecting the battery before unplugging things is a general rule of thumb that won't hurt. But as long as the key is out of the ignition and you don't turn it on while something is unplugged, you're fine.

There is plenty of wrong info on the internet.
 
  #26  
Old 02-18-2014, 06:52 PM
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Here are some pictures of the broken wire to the SIPS.If I post fault code's could someone help?-000_1602.jpg

If I post fault code's could someone help?-000_1603.jpg

If I post fault code's could someone help?-000_1610.jpg

If I post fault code's could someone help?-000_1607.jpg
You can see in one of the pictures, they were nice enough to leave some extra wire length to play with! Well closing up shop for the night. Tomorrow its soldering time. Be back with more...
 

Last edited by ingydrummer; 02-18-2014 at 06:55 PM.
  #27  
Old 02-18-2014, 08:15 PM
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Sometimes you spend more than you save. Spend the 90 bucks for the diagnostic and get an estimate. They will tell you everything that needs to be fixed. Then do it yourself or whatever. What is the price of knowledge?
 
  #28  
Old 02-18-2014, 08:44 PM
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Soldering SRS wiring is not recommended. The SIPS bag should be replaced.
 
  #29  
Old 02-18-2014, 09:18 PM
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RGuy, have you read the thread from the start? I already had diagnostics read. After that I have fixed the ECC, and now im about to fix the next problem that happens to be the sips drivers side. ES6T, I hear what your saying, but I am doing a repair that I think will render this air bag system functional. I may be wrong, and have already bought a replacement seat from my local salvage yard.
If it turns out that my fix does not work, I have the new seat. If it turns out that it does work, The seat goes back. At the very least, I have a yard credit for future parts. Keeping my fingers crossed right now. Thank you for everyone's advise, and I will update result's.
 
  #30  
Old 02-18-2014, 09:26 PM
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You do not want to press around with SRS components at all. All of these theses are connected together though the CAN network so if you do it and something goes terribly wrong who know what can happen. If you already have the seat just install it and be done with it.
 
  #31  
Old 02-18-2014, 09:40 PM
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After everything is connected, turn the key on before reconnecting the battery. That way you aren't in the seat if the airbag goes off.

I would highly recommend replacing the bag. The wiring is sensative to any added resistance.
 
  #32  
Old 02-19-2014, 12:11 PM
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ES6T, I took your advice about turning the key on before connecting the battery. Well, I stripped ,cleaned and soldered the wires back together with heat shrink on each wire then another larger shrink around the main cable then put everything back together. I connected the battery and no bomb went off. It seems to have also fixed my trunk switch because now that works again, and it hasn't worked since I bought the car? Now to see if I can have the code erased? Let's hope. I want to thank you for all the knowledge and advice you have given me during this project. You have been a great help.
 
  #33  
Old 02-19-2014, 01:01 PM
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No problem. The trunk is unrelated so I wouldn't expect it to last. Give the trunk harness a check.
 
  #34  
Old 02-20-2014, 08:15 AM
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I will, maybe it was the key in door, lock unlock three times that I did after i connected the battery?
 
  #35  
Old 02-27-2014, 05:06 PM
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So, I bought a seat today from my friends salvage yard for $28.00. The leather is a 9 out of 10 so I can use the skins too. I'm going to tear into this seat tomorrow and remove the air bag and head off to my other friends Volvo shop to test the SRS system with this bag plugged in to see if the repair that I did on my sips bag was a success or a failure. I'm hoping to get the later so I can put the new bag in and be done with this for good. We'll see?
 
  #36  
Old 03-07-2014, 08:23 AM
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Well, the code still came back for the SRS fault after installing the new seat. Now I bought an airbag sensor. I will install it and off to the Volvo dealer again. I'm running out of options and I'm not sure what to try next? I will know by tomorrow night.
 
  #37  
Old 03-09-2014, 10:00 AM
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The SRS fault was due to a faulty airbag sensor. Apparently when the sips bag cable in the seat was cut, it shorted out the sensor. Bought a used one at the pull-it yard and downloaded the software and no more SRS lights. Finally finished with all codes or so I thought. Now the siren code popped up and needs to be dealt with.
 
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