Pierce, Please help. You are the master! I have a fuel pump problem i think. Driving on highway it just stalled. Turned on the ignition to accessory position, no pump sound. Checked the LH Relay it clicks on when the key is turned and clicks again when the key is turned off. Replaced in line pump, still no sound. I'm thinking of replacing the Primary intank pump. But would that cause neither pump to click on?
Hello pierce, I just joined. I was reading your post on the 940 turbo with no spark at the coil. I noticed you referenced the red and white wire and the blue wire on the coil. I tested the red and white wire and have continuity. I tried the same test with the blue wire and no continuity, but when I had my tester in the coil amp plug and touched the body by accident my tester sounded off. Is the blue wire a ground? If I unplug the blue wire from the coil and touch the body nothing happens. please help. Thank you
Hi Pierce, I just joined because you have the best info. I'm in the midst of fixing up my 1989 Volvo 740GL and I'm on the fuel system. I found the great thread that talks about both pumps, fuel relay, etc. My question is, can the main pump (which is running) and the in-tank pump (which I think is not running) be effected separately by the fuel relay? does the fuel relay allow one to run and not the other? Or do you think the in-tank pump is just bad. Car starts ok, best when cold. Main pump gets louder when tank is low. Will replacing just the relay get both working? I think I need to replace the i-tank pump. Can you explain how to access and remove the in-tank pump the proper way? I have a new main pump coming anyway as that's an easy replacement, but as you know, the in-tank will be a bit more work. I don't want to kill the new main pump if the in-tank is bad, thoughts?
Thank you for all your amazing help on this site.
Pierce I was hoping you could point me in the right direction, I can't find any good instructions on the replacement/cleaning of the crankshaft ventilation system. You were right it is definitely clogged and the reason for my leaking oil
Like new picture - most be before working on Volvo - surely not after.
Like the cold morning post -below 70 - try below 0 or lower for cold starts - one of best starting cars I've ever owned, after new fuel pump -sweet not having to drop tank.
I have a 1993 940 Volvo non turbo Regina system. Floods like mad when cold. Lots of spark, new rotor cap wires plugs. Yesterday got it running 100%. This morning started fine cold. Later on no go flooded again. New crank sensor, air temp sensor tested fine, checked fuel with tire gauge looked OK. Suspect ECT where can I get one? Got a Number for it?
Working on my 1994 940 Turbo wagon. Here is the details as best as I can give.
On cold mornings .. temps anywhere below 70 degrees .. the car starts but runs bad .. it lopes and skips .. it when it skips you can see the tachometer jump down. After it gets to normal operating temp it is fine ... no troubles at all .. everything is smooth .. but mornings are the worse .. and in the summer month all is well... below is what has been done with no improvement.
New plugs and wire set
New ECT sensor
New 02 sensor
Throttle body cleaned
Air control motor cleaned
checked all vacuum lines
This car has 260,000 on it and has never had a MAF sensor ... I don't know if that would be the answer and hate to keep guessing... any ideas? I sure would appreciate the help.
I am hoping you can help me a little, I have been searching the forum and have not been able to find a definitive answer. I have a 1990 240 DL wagon. Can you clean the oil separator in the car? If so, what is the best method? If it is really clogged up and needs to be replaced, can it be done without removing the intake manifold? If I have to replace it, how difficult is it?