1997 Volvo 850 Non turbo automatic radiator write up

[Supra850]

Mods please Sticky 1997 Volvo 850 Non-Turbo Automatic Radiator write-up Alright, so had a radiator leak, here is the walk through of the rad replacement. ALL DIRECTIONS ARE FROM STANDING AT THE FRONT BUMPER FACING THE WINDSHIELD. (LEFT IS PASSENGER) (RIGHT IS DRIVER) This is what I started with: 1. Jack the car up either on sides or front cross member although I did notice the cross member bend slightly: 2. Axle stands on front mounts (triangular in shape with 3 bolts LCA?) 3. Drain Anti-freeze out of drain plug (bottom right side) Hint:Unscrew the overflow tank cap (usually blue near passenger side strut tower) 13MM socket, should be fairly deep: 4. Remove upper/lower radiator hoses (tops are 10 MM socket, bottom is 8MM) 5. Remove this panel, I believe it was two 10 or 11mm bolts on the BACKSIDE of the panel on both pass/drive side. 6. Remove this mount for a vacuum line, right side of the radiator two (away from my head right now, not phillips but the actual "Star" shaped bit torx?) 7. There is also a vacuum line on the block, mine broke, I could not get the clamp off. http://s321.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=P5170268.jpg Unhook the vacuum line and remove this electical connection: 7.b Should turn out like this: http://s321.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=P5170267.jpg 8.On the fan should there are a few Electrical connections you have to unhook:

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[Supra850]

PART B: 1997 Volvo 850 Non-turbo automatic Radiator Write-up

(This is on the back of the panel you removed earlier)



9.The shroud should lift out with some ease, just be careful with any other connections that may get caught in it.


10. Now you have to take the transmission cooler (smaller radiator infront) off the large radiator. There are four (4) bolts holding the radiator to the t. radiator 10MM and they are on all four corners of the t. radiator.

10.A Passenger:

10.B Driver:



11.Lower drivers side (through mesh grille)


12. Now I put a jack under BOTH radiators just to support them (I was alone doing this so two jacks helped)



13. I then removed the transmission coolant lines. There are two, one on the top and one on the bottom on the drivers side of the radiator:



TIP: Have TWO (2) drain buckets, one for any excess anti-freeze that comes out of lower rad hose, and minimal out of the TOP transmission line, then move that out, get another smaller bucket and put it directly under where the lower rad hose would go (hose hookup?) transmission fluid WILL spill out and will contaminate the anti-freeze.. making it useless:



13.B These clips will most likely break on you, be careful:



13.C Top/Bottom lines:


14.Now double check to make sure the transmission radiator is free from the engine radiator, and both are supported by something stable a jack worked fine for me (Car on axle stands, floor jack under engine rad, scissor jack under transmission rad) Then double check to make sure all lines are free from both radiators (esp engine rad)



15. Then remove the two bolts holding the engine rad in place, you have to be on the ground looking up to get these.

On left and right side of the rad:
Drivers side:


I want to say these are 12MM bolts x2 and they are pretty long bolts

Now slowly lower the jack make sure you put the floor jack under the engine rad because its alot easier to lower it.

Now, slowly lower the jack, trying to support the rad as best as you can, shouldn't be too hard I did it alone. Then once the jack is depressed, go to the top of the car and slowly and carefully lift it off, and lower it to the ground, resting it gently at an angle on the ground. The two mounts for the bolts you removed at step 15 should catch on something so it won't go too far.

If you can get a spare set of hands one person go under and guide it to the floor, again I did it alone with no damage to any component. Lower the rad until its parallel with the ground (completely free of the car) then pull it out.

I then pulled out the new radiator, and re-installed it. Plugging the old radiator with rags to make sure it doesn't leak, and put it back in the box the new rad came in:


Now, for re installing, I got help to guide the new radiator back into place, again underneath the car guiding on an angle back into place. Put the two bolts back in from the bottom (step 15) and then re attach the transmission radiator, electrical lines, fans, transmission oil lines trim panels and you're done.

I have left the 850 on jack stands, its may long weekend here in Canada and Volvo was closed I am going to get new transmission oil line o-rings and the clamps and "volvo radiator fluid" will finish tomorrow. Might as well leave the car up on the jack stands because the angle the car is on will get air pockets in the coolant out when you re-fill the radiator.

[tech]

Thanks I made is a sticky.

[kockyhardrockr]

Awesome write up. would have saved my $400

[VTBricked]

Correction on part identification (not procedure): the "transmission cooler" in front of the radiator is the air conditioning condenser.

Caution/expectation on removing radiator bolts. Rust (especially in northern states using salt in the winter) will make removal difficult. Sometimes the threaded part attached to the car will break free and you're looking at visegrips or similar tool to hold it while you remove the bolt.

[mikeross]

This is a great volvo radiator write up. I should have read it. I really had difficulty removing the radiator bolts..

[lovely09]

A great write up for a more clear procedure.It's perfect as i need to do this on weekend.I will study how you do it and work on by myself.

[kurtdaniel]

very helpful for beginners like me..in return to this article share,,I would also like to share water pump repair article..

[hoffa61]

Fantastic with the pics as well. My input is free, so maybe worth nothing... however I found this out on my radiator swap.
A radiator from a V70 IS NOT THE SAME. The guy at the wrecking yard assured me they were the same. They are identical except for the transmission connections that are different. (850 clamps over and the V70 inside!).
I also found that with a spare pair of hands (I know, not always available) I actually disconnected the hoses and tranny lines, undid the 2 x radiator mounting screws, then tilted the rad forward to undo the Condensor bolts(4). The top 2 were %#*@!% to get at, so this made it easier. The radiators when empty are not heavy at all, so invite the Missus or one of the kids to give a hand.
I also lifted it out the top without any problem (Mine is a NON TURBO,I THINK TURBO'S NEED TO GO OUT THE BOTTOM DUE TO PLUMBING UP TOP), just got the shroud right out the way, lay it on top of the motor with the electric connection for the fan still attached, no need to replace wiring stay.
Hope this helps someone.
Did have car on ramp but only to make the work under the car a bit easier

[72Demon]

Thank you for taking the time to make this write up. I just used it this weekend for a 98 V70 non-turbo radiator change. For anyone else researching this, here are a couple of things I found. The replacment radiator I got needed the transmission lines' fittings installed. Make sure you use a thread sealer or plumbers tape on the fittings before you install them or they may leak - mine did. Also the clips for the transmission lines just spread apart to remove them. I had never seen clips like those before. You can use a needle nose plyer or snap ring plyer to spread them apart. When you reinstall them, you can put a hose clamp over them to make them tighter. Saw that on another thread. They worked good. Oh yeah, I had to take the radiator out the bottom, I could not get it out the top. I hope this helps anyone else that is going to tackle a radiator change.