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Tech, as you see in my signature, I have a C70 but I assume the evaporator placement is similar on mine. I had to replace coolant this summer due to lack of cold A/C air. Now, after the engine is warmed up and under light load (i.e. at idle) I get a whining or sighing noise that sounds like it's coming from the evap area as shown in your instructions above. It's very noticeable when I shut the engine off as it will persist for fifteen to twenty seconds as it gradually fades out. Would this require a replacement of the evap? What does a dealer charge for parts & labor (ballpark).
That noise usually comes from a Bad Orface tube.
It can be replaced without doing the evaperator.
It is done from under the hood.
The cost for that should be like $100.00 to $150.00
An Evaperator replacement costs about $1200.00
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1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM Broken
1996 850 turbo
Is there a way to check to see if the evap has been replaced? Let me explain...
Bought a car in MA that needs a new evap, dealer has agreed to go 50/50, is there a way that I can "mark it" to make sure they actually did it? Thanks
you mention that after you replace the Evaporator, you vacuum out the system for an hour. How do you vacuum out the system for an hour? Is there a special tool?
Thanks
To do it right, you should rent something like this: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...p;Category=317, attach it to the a/c system and run it to a vacuum and then maintain the vacuum for something like 45 mins or an hour.
The cheaper way is to buy a little vacuum pump that you can hook up to an air compressor, see here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3952. I hooked that up and ran it for about 90 minutes or so (I had other things to do anyway and I questioned the quality of something that was only $16 compared to $100+.
I'll let someone more intelligent tell you if there's anything wrong about doing it my way. One thing that would be good is to have a vacuum gauge that you could attach and make sure you actually have a vacuum on the system. I didn't and just assumed it worked (not very smart, but I've never been known for my smarts, mostly for my stinginess).
To do it right, you should rent something like this: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...p;Category=317, attach it to the a/c system and run it to a vacuum and then maintain the vacuum for something like 45 mins or an hour.
The cheaper way is to buy a little vacuum pump that you can hook up to an air compressor, see here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3952. I hooked that up and ran it for about 90 minutes or so (I had other things to do anyway and I questioned the quality of something that was only $16 compared to $100+.
I'll let someone more intelligent tell you if there's anything wrong about doing it my way. One thing that would be good is to have a vacuum gauge that you could attach and make sure you actually have a vacuum on the system. I didn't and just assumed it worked (not very smart, but I've never been known for my smarts, mostly for my stinginess).
That is correct.
Or just take it to a shop and have them do it.
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1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM Broken
1996 850 turbo
I believe everyone can see it, but you have to log in (Kodak Gallery accounts are free www.kodakgallery.com) to actually add comments. Please do add information as I haven't had time to do it all.
BTW: The dealer diagnosis was wrong! After all this, it wasn't the evap core. I just chalk it up to experience. Now, I am not afraid of ANYTHING in that car.
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Song
98 V70 T5 Red
00 S2000
92 LS400
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