I'll review history at the end of this post.

Am getting code P1133.
Obvious effects are lack of power, virtually ineffective turbo. To accelerate must hold to floor and wait. After several seconds, eventually the speed will pick up and then the turbo is obvious, but not always. Must hold to floor for any power, but no power until 3,500 rpms. At some stops the car seems to not be sureof idle, never cuts off.
Any help is appreciated. And if unstated, thanks for the help in previously posted questions.

History:
First post was getting help to replace flywheel. Volvo >> Volvo Vehicles >> Volvo S80 >> fly wheel replacement 2000 s80

Second post was getting help w/ timing & belt when vvt was involved. Volvo S80 >> S-80 Timing belt Replacement & Timing belt and Timing problems

First post after getting timing solvedwas error code P1238, which translated to turbo control valve, and was b/c hose was left unattached to air cooler. Some dummy left a hose loose or off, dummy was me. Volvo Forums >> Volvo Vehicles >> Volvo S80 >> Error code P1238

Second post after getting running was P1153 along with P0306, so I transfered coilsand plugsfrom #6 to #4. reset codes and tested. This time had codes P1153, P1182 and P0304, put in new plug. reset/retested same codes. Left key on, drained battery and reset codes. Recharged, replaced coil on #4, reset, retested error code P1153

Third post after timing was P1133. This is the reason for this post.

 

By looking at this code list sounds like a bad front O2 sensor unless there code list is wrong it is a little confusing. It says bank 1 sensor 1 (rear bank) Bank 1 sensor 1 should be passenger front O2 sensor.

 

Yeah, I guess that there might be a bad O2 sensor, but the price differential is large, a rear O2 is $78 and a front is $335. I hate to see what the volvo dealer will charge for it.
Anyway, I am still stuck w/ P1133.
Would a bad O2 sensor make it have no low end? No power at a stop light?

 

Yes it will cause that issue.

 

I also show bank 1 sensor 1. Also check for any leaks upstream from the sensor. A leak will cause the sensor to read wrong and can cause drivability issues, even a small leak.

 

Thanks Tech and Bill. Bank 1 sensor 1.
According to previous posts, this is passenger side, front/upstream sensor.
But Tech wrote: "It says bank 1 sensor 1 (rear bank) Bank 1 sensor 1 should be passenger front O2 sensor"

Bill, I can hear no exhaust leaks, quiet quite. But will recheck.

So, you both think this thing is worth replacing the front passenger side O2 sensor? I am leary of spending 325 bucks, or however much it is. But then again, it's my bosses money!!!

Brad

 

Here is a little bit of info.
Bank 1 = Cylinder 1,2,3
Bank 2 = Cylinder 4,5,6

Thats why It confused me when they wrote rear bank because that would be 4,5,6.
Cylinder 1 is closest to the timing belt.

 

Shop arround. I got mine at carquest. List is $227.00. If you know someone at a shop they could get it for you for about $150.00.

 

Final post and resolution:
Sorry to be so long in returning to post(s). Finally gave up and took to Volvo dealer. It turns out that the problems sorta compounded themselves because of the first initial “oversight”. It seems that I switched the 2 front O2 sensor connections, I plugged the right bank into the left bank, though I gave it careful consideration before doing so, I assumed I was correct and never went back to change it.I alsoassumed that the connections would be unique and could not be switched. Well, I assumed wrong. This caused the plugs to foul, then 3 of the coils failed, and they said one of the O2sensors were bad. So $1100 later the car skats better than ever.

 

doh'......'kicks self in head'