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First jack up the car safely and put on jackstands.Then remove the wheel.Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive.Next Remove the outer tierod.Which I think is a 18mm.Then remove the bolt for the lower balljoint.You will need a 15mm socket and a 13mm wrench.Also it will help if you remove the sway bar link.It will also help some if you undo the ABS sensor wire from its holders.Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub.Then pull out on the hub to back the axle out of the hub.Once that is done then you can remove the axle.The drivers side you can use a screw driver and put it between the axle and the trans. to pop the axle out. The passenger side(rightside of car) you will need to remove the support bracket that holds the axle in.It is 2 12mm bolts.Then the axle will slide out.
Hope this helps somebody!!
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1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM yes Manual
1996 850 turbo
If you intend to just raise one side of the car because you are working with only one of the axles, it is best to remove the sway link before you raise the car. Turn the wheel as far to one side so you can acces and remove the sway link.
I also read somewhere that you should not remove both axles at the same time. Tech could confirm if this is true.
Just wanted to share my experience on replacing cv-joint boot and ball joints, it might help someone who's trying to do the same repair. Some contents may be a repetition from my past posts.
One day I found a torn cv-joint boot on passenger side on my car ('94 850 Turbo T5 Sedan, 143,000 plus miles). Luckily, I found it in an early stage, so I decided to replace it with a new boot. This turned out to be a nightmare. As I tried to remove the circlip that holds cv-joint to the axle, I broke the tangs of it and there was no way to remove it. I used all kinds of methods, only to find despair. So, I decided to disconnect the drive shaft and decided to put the boot from the opposite side. After all, I managed to replace both outer & inner boots and I was relieved when done. I want to stress that if someone needs to replace cv-joint boot, he/she must make sure not to break the tangs on the circlip or it'll stay there forever.
When disconnecting the driveshaft, some transmission fluid leaks out, so at least a quart of Dexron-3/Mercon is imperative (mine leaked about a half quart). Haynes manual calls for metal adhesive when putting the outer driveshaft spline back to the hub, and I was not sure if this was an absolute necessity. I used a bit of thread locker just in case.
As for the ball joints, the clamp bolt on my car was absolutely frozen to the hub due to corrosion. I had to abuse it with a portable torch, a can of PB Blaster, a hammer and a chisel. After about 3 hours of violence on each side, the bolt finally gave up but it was a pain. When a person decides to use a torch, he/she needs to put some form of heat insulation (I used folded aluminum foil) between ball joint and cv-joint boot, as the cv-joint boot is in such a close proximity to the ball joint and it might melt if care is not taken. Getting the ball joint out was another pain, as metal-to-metal contact between the shank and the hub was so tight. Again, my hammer + chisel violence did the job. By the way, some 850's have steel control arm which does not have a replaceable ball joint, while others, like mine, have aluminum arm with replaceable ball joints. This can be checked by the VIN number.
After replacing many front-end parts & hardware and had an alignment done at Volvo, the handling improved noticeably.
The dealer told me that my axle seal was leaking transmission fluid. If i take the axle out, is the seal right there that i can change it or is it more complicated?
Thanks
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In search of a Volvo 850 Wagon!!
And make sure to have a quart of Dexron-III/Mercon and top-off whatever is lost during the procedure. A funnel with flexible extension is extremely helpful.
Haynes manual calls for metal adhesive when putting the outer driveshaft spline back to the hub, and I was not sure if this was an absolute necessity. I used a bit of thread locker just in case.
My Chiltons manual calls for the same metal adhesive. I couldn't find any off-the-shelf adhesives at the auto parts store that were specifically for such an application; and the sales reps had no clue what I needed. Any other recomendations besides the the thread locker? I was thinking RTV silicone.
An adhesive may not be an absolute necessity. Moderator Tech (the top dog of this forum) once told us thatan adhesiveis called out because sometimes the splines on the drive axle do not exactly match and may be a bit loose. If yours doesn't have any play/looseness, I believe you can get by without an adhesive. I personally used the above thread locker, just enough to cover circumference of the splined shaft, not much.
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Removing the C/V Axles
