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  #1  
Old 01-19-2009, 11:46 AM
sjonnie sjonnie is offline
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Default Inner CV joint boot

My passenger side inner CV joint is throwing grease, must have cracked in the cold weather we had just these last few days because there was no grease there the weekend before, so perhaps the CV joint is not badly contaminated with dirt. So question: can I replace the boot with the axle shaft still on the car or should I pull the whole shaft and rebuild it with a CV joint boot kit ($28 from FCP)? Considering the vehicle has 125K on it and there is no record of CV joints ever being repaired, would it be worth installing a whole new axle shaft from IPD (made by DSS, not OEM) for $175?
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2009, 02:51 PM
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Default RE: Inner CV joint boot

I would just do the axle shaft.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:06 AM
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Default RE: Inner CV joint boot

Since you really have no idea if the joint is contaminated, I would replace the whole thing and be done with it
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Old 01-21-2009, 05:28 PM
sjonnie sjonnie is offline
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Default RE: Inner CV joint boot

Wow, FCPGroton sell the right drive axle for $134 on ebay! I'll install that and maybe rebuild the old one if the inner joint looks good.
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:07 PM
sjonnie sjonnie is offline
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Default RE: Inner CV joint boot

The new drive-axle has arrived. To get the old one out I just remove the steering knuckle and the intermediate bearing support and pull the drive shaft out of the bevel gear? Is there any special puller I might need to get it out or should it just slide straight out? Any tricks for getting it out if it's stuck? Install is reverse of removal presumably....
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:15 PM
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Default RE: Inner CV joint boot

It will just slide out once the bearing clamp is off.(half the bracket)
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Old 01-30-2009, 03:35 PM
sjonnie sjonnie is offline
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Well that was a snap, easiest job ever, old axle slid right out, new one (DSS brand) slid straight in, no problems. Funny thing is I can't see anything wrong with the inner CV joint boot but there was grease all over the place so I know it was leaking, weird. Compared to the new one the inner joint felt very loose, but other than that the axle seemed fine, wonder if I replaced it for nothing....

One thing, I didn't pay attention to the strut mount bolts and now see VADIS says I should have measured the position of the hub carrier in the mount to set the camber alignment. Really there is very little movement in this position anyway, 1 or two degrees and I see that the Haynes manual says the camber alignment should be -0.3+/- 0.9 degrees so from +0.6 to -1.2degrees? It doesn't seem like there is even that much flexibility in the mount, but maybe I'm wrong, should I pay to get the alignment checked? I just set the bolts in the middle of the two extremes figuring it would be about right. Feels fine to drive.
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Old 01-30-2009, 04:11 PM
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You can have it checked but I have done a ton of them where customers never wanted to do an alignment and all was fine.

Just keep an eye on tire wear.
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:33 PM
sjonnie sjonnie is offline
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Wooot!!? Today I am under the car and I notice that the driver's side axle shaft is also throwing grease, not a whole lot, but there is a pretty good layer on the transmission. It appears to be coming from exactly the same place as when my passenger side failed, the seal between the inner joint and the boot. Is this particularly sensitive to damage somehow? Could I have caused this when I changed the wheel bearings? Although I'd driven over 6K miles with the new bearings without any problems. I guess that's another drive-shaft I need to order...
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:41 PM
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It is a pretty common problem on these cars. It is almost like the clamps aren't tight enough from the factory or something like that.
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:41 PM
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2002, 850, boot, change, cv, install, joint, kit, rebuild, replace, s60, stuck, v40, volvo, xc90


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