GENERAL MAINTENANCE ITEMS FOR VOLVO 850:
TIMING BELT:
I do mine at every 60,000 miles/5 years (1993 models do require replacement at
every 50,000 miles due to narrower belt). I change it more frequently than is recommended, because the belt is cheap but the engine is not. If the previous owner had left a logbook (maintenance record), great, but if no, then it is not a bad idea to replace it. Try visually inspectingthe beltby removing one 12mm bolt that is holding the belt cover and wiggle it upward.Pay attention to the roots of each cog for cracking.
REQUIRED PARTS:
1. Timing Belt (Continental, German OEM)
*2. Idler Pulley (Continental, German OEM)
*3. Tensioner Pulley (Continental, German OEM)
*4. Hydraulic Tensioner Cylinder (Febi/Aisin, German)
**5. Water Pump (Genuine Volvo or German Hepu, I used Hepu)
Items 1-3 come in one package of kit. 4 & 5 must be bought separately.
* I replace these items at every other belt change.
**The water pump rarely needs replacement, unless it is leaking.
Haynes Manual & the following would be sufficient as instructions:
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.htm
PCV SYSTEM:
If engine oilkeeps seeping out from oil filler cap, seals, and seams on the engine, you may want to replace the entire *PCV components (oil trap, flame trap, rubber hoses & clamps, etc...). You will also need a new intake manifold gasket, as the manifold has to be disconnected to get to the PCV components.
* Turbo & Non-turbo engines use different PCV components, so make sure to check the type of your engine, as well as the vehicle & engine VIN before buying parts.
OIL/FUEL RECOMMENDATION:
Oil/fuel selection is a personal preference. I would usefull synthetic10W-30 with OEM filter (MANN, Germany/Argentina) for turbo, regular or synthetic-blend for NA. I try to avoid 5W-30 for turbocharged engine, but the difference might be negligible. As for fuel, I use 91/higher Octane rating, but some people use 87 and have no problem as the ECU retards ignition timing IAW different grade fuel. If you notice knocking, however, switch to 91 or higher.
COOLING SYSTEM:
1.All rubber hoses with new clamps.
2. Thermostat & seal ring.
3. Expansion reservoir tank cap (The new version is GREEN).
4.Coolant (50/50 mixture should do for most North America,but certain locationsmay require 55/45).
5. Expansion reservoir, only if it's leaking.
6. Heater core, if it is leaking.
When filling the coolant, fill up to FULL mark only for the first time, when the engine is cold. If filled up to FULL mark at cold later, coolant will overflow. I usually fill it at about 1 inch above the MIN mark. After coolant replacement and a few minutes of driving, youwill see "low coolant level" warning on the dash.When this happens, park as soon as you can and refill the reservoir. Do this by placing a wet rag on the cap and turn the cap slowly to relieve pressure. Also, try doing this before the engine has reached normal operating temp to avoid burns.
TURBOCHARGER:
You may want to check for oil leak from oil drain line and oil cooler lines. If leak is found, replace O-rings, seals and gaskets. Small leak under the turbocharger is normal. Idle the engine for 1-2 minutes after hard driving.
BRAKES:
Brakes on 850 are straightforward, here arethe parts you will need:
GENERAL:
*1. DOT-4 Fluid (I use ATE Super Blue/Amber Racing).
2. Silicone-based grease or CV-joint grease for anti-squeak purpose.
3. A can or 2 of brake cleaner spray.
4. Large C-clamp or 10WR Vise-grip to push back the piston.
5. Sandpaper to clean rusty spots (use oil/WD-40 for sanding).
*I used Motive Products One-person bleeder and flushed the system by myself. Available at FCP Groton/Motive Products.
FRONT:
1. New rotors (Brembo, Zimmermann, ATE or any OEM).
2. New pads (Genuine Volvo, Textar (OEM) orany high-quality ceramic pads).
3. Synthetic grease for slider pins (The pins are hex (allen) bolts).
4. New caliper bracket bolts.
5. Bungee cord to hang the caliper.
*If calipers look too worn, you may want to buy rebuilt calipers loaded with OEM pads.
REAR:
1. Rotor (same as above)
2. Pads (same as above, I used Roulands-Dan Block OEM pads)
3. New caliper bolts.
4. New hardware (Retainer springs & pins).
5. New shims (half-size shims are highly recommended to stop squeak).
Notes on ABS Module (Electronic Control Unit):
The ABS module on 850 is noted for failure. For 1996~1997 models, there are quite a few places where they can repair & upgrade the module, for approximately $100. However, for 1995 and older models, there does not seem like anyone who provide such services; you would have to repair it on your own. However, the failure often seems to be due to cracked soldering on the circuit board, especially the ones for the connectors, so if you can use soldering iron and can solder electronic components, it is well within DIYer’s capability to repair the module. Also, when soldering electronic components, do the job as quickly as you can, since many electronic devices are vulnerable to heat. Refer to the following thread:
http://www.volvoforums.com/m_58856/tm.htm
FRONT SUSPENSION:
1. Upper mount (bearing) with new nuts x 3 each side (total of 6 nuts).
2. Upper springseat (notorious for wearing out & causing clunking noise).
3. Bump stop for strut
4. Special washer for strut
5. Top cap for strut
6. New bolts & nuts for strut lower attachment.
7. Ball joint/control arm with new nuts & bolts (Newer models cannot replace ball joint alone).
8. Sway bar (stabilizer) link rods (new parts should come with new lock nuts).
9. Struts (only if the car rolls too much or the car keeps bouncing after hitting bumps, but the ride & handling will improve noticeably for a car with 100,000+ miles). Either OEM Sachs or Bilstein Touring is good. Bilstein Heavy Duty seemsa bit too firm. Koni Adjustable seems to have good reputation too, as you can adjust the damping rate.
REAR SUSPENSION:
1. Shocks (Sachs, Bilstein Touring or Koni Adjustable)
2. Upper shock mounts
3. New lock nuts
WINDSHIELD WASHER:
Replace the following items:
1. T-valve (hidden behind the hood liner, but easy to get to it).
2. Squirters (upgraded version available at FCP Groton).
3. In-line filter (located by the washer filler neck).
4. T-valve for headlight washers.
5. New wiper blades for windshield & headlights.
AIR CONDITIONING:
LikeABS module, A/C on 850 is noted for failure. Often the failure is either at the compressor or the evaporator. If the compressor keeps turning ON&OFF, the first thing to do is to check for correct system pressure. If low, the system needs to be recharged with R134a,
NOT R-12. If the system cannot hold correct pressure, it may be leaking at the evaporator. Replacement of evaporator on 850 is difficult, as the unit is located in the deepest abyss in the dash. As for compressor trouble, it may need to be re-shimmed or replaced with a rebuilt/new unit.
http://www.volvoforums.com/m_34431/tm.htm
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N00b here....some maintenance questions
