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  #1  
Old 06-23-2010, 10:59 AM
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Default 1988 240 tune-up - no speed

I have a 1988 240 that hasn't run in a few years. I bought it not running. Now it's running and I just repaired the overdrive. I got it out on the open road for the first time, and it will not go over 45 MPH. It sounds like it needs a valve adjustment, but other than that I don't know what to do next.
Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor have all been replaced. Fuel pumps both working fine, Idles pretty smooth, good fire on all cylinders.
What's next?
Just below the throttle body there is some type of adjustment screw. It's a big black plastic thumbscrew. What does that adjust?

Thanks for whatever help you can provide.
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2010, 02:58 PM
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I think the adjustment screw on the AMM is for emissions. I would do a compression test you can get a kit at harbor freight for ~50. See if you have good compression, then I would pull the timing belt cover and see if everything still lines up, slipping a cog on a timing belt can hurt power... just my two cents...
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldman View Post
Just below the throttle body there is some type of adjustment screw. It's a big black plastic thumbscrew. What does that adjust?
Thats a manual idle adjustment. I would check for obstructed exhaust.
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  #4  
Old 06-24-2010, 10:34 PM
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its probably not an electrical issue, since it idles fine. Obstructed catalytic converter can do that in a snap. Happened on my police car which I drove daily. Went on a call over a bumpy road, got back to the interstate later, and got to maybe 50 mph. That said, maybe a fuel injector flush, but in my advice, I've put good money after bad chasing down these and other gremlins in my 87 240. Take it to a good shop. I dont see why the valves would need adjusting
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:06 PM
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Thanks for your ideas guys. When the plugs and wires were replaced, my son had two plug wires reversed. When we first attempted to crank it, it backfired and chugged a lot. So, I'm thinking it may have possibly jumped timing.
Can anyone supply me with some pictures of the timing belt and marks. Basically, what should I expect to see when I get the cover off?
Thanks,
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:27 PM
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pictures are in this thread ...

http://www.volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41389
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  #7  
Old 06-25-2010, 02:41 PM
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Make sure you have the firing order correct. From left to right should be 1 3 4 2. A clogged Catalytic converter can cause at high speeds or up hills only so it may be that. Also I've seen bad MAF sensors cause loss of power and bad ECU's. The timing marks are on the pullies and the timing belt cover. They make timing belts today that have stripes on them so you can't mess up position. Also on an 88 you can do distributor timing(power timing) unlike an 89 and on. Get a 14mm long socket an extension and a ratchet. Loosen the nut on the diributor. Distributor should the turn freely it it doesn't don't force it it's frozen. Then move the distributor left or right (retard or advance timing) you can do this by ear if you have someone in the car with foot on brake car in gear and stepping on gas. If you hear the car pinging then it is off time adjust until it sounds correct...kind of hard if you don't know what you're listening for. I would check firing order first and foremost. Then I would unhook the connector to the MAF sensor while the car is running, then plug it back in. If there is NO change then your MAF sensor is bad and that is most likely your problem. If there is a change in how the car idles then test all your wires with a multimeter. If they read less than 2 ohms or more than 10 they are bad. Also pull your plugs to see if they are black, not firing, or wet...since they are all pulled do a quick compression test on all cylinders...If all these things are OK then get to a mechanic and have him check your CAT. If CAT is ok proceed to replacing ECU. If none of that works....open up your wallet and leave the car with a Volvo specialist to figure it out... Hope this helps and Good Luck!!
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  #8  
Old 06-25-2010, 09:08 PM
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I may be wrong, as I always am when i'm not right, but just crossing the wires cannot cause a mechanical reaction like a belt jumping time, not to say there isnt a problem with the belt or tensioner, or the crankshaft position sensor( but thats usually a no start siotuation) volvoguy has some outstanding, insightful advice. I need to keep him on my blackberry instant messenger list haha
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:50 AM
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I took out the plugs and went on the internet to find that the gap should be .028. I noticed that the plugs came gapped to about .050, so I regapped the plugs and it runs much worse. I checked the timing marks and they are all lined up and at TDC, the rotor is pointing at the #2 plugwire.
I've got the day off to work on the thing, but have no idea what to do. If your recommendation is to unplug something or look at a sensor, can you please send a pic of where that sensor is or describe what it looks like?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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  #10  
Old 06-26-2010, 11:50 AM
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Sorry, at TDC the rotor is pointing to the #1 position on the cap. So, timing is correct, or close to it, I do not have a timing light, but I'll try adjusting it by ear. I haven't done that in about 35 years when I used to work at a gas station. You know, a "SERVICE STATION" where we pumped your gas for you checked under your hood, washed your windshield and even checked the air in your tires on request.
Oh, the good 'ol days.
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:50 AM
 
 
 
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Tags
1988, 240, 740, adjustments, btdc, crap, distributor, high, jumped, runs, speed, timing, tune, ups, valve, volvo


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