1988 740 How to restore black rubber bumpers?
#1
1988 740 How to restore black rubber bumpers?
What is the best product to restore the new look to faded black rubber bumpers. I used some stuff years ago on a 1982 Toyota which was like a transparent lotion but it only improved the appearance for a short time before the effect wore off. Also, what a good but inexpensive way to replace the sagging headliner. Lastly, what is a good way to detail the engine compartment as mine is dirty and dusty.
#2
There are many newish products on the market, Bumper Black, etc. that promise blackness. If you Google it, you'll find many options which work with various degree of success. All are temporary, as all things.
The best way to replace a sagging headliner is to use one from a later 940/960 model--they fit almost perfectly. Junkyards sell them for next to nothing and this way you maintain the originality; they last much longer than pre 1991 liners. From the junkyard it 'd have to be a DIY as the liners are brittle and delicate to handle. Wagons are much easier to do; the sedans take more time and care. If you have a shop do it INSIST on them using 1/8 thickness material, not the 1/4 commonly used.
I wash my engines with a power sprayer after using some Engine Degreaser. Use common sense as to where you point it avoiding wires, sensors, etc. but generally Volvos are OK with being hosed that way--never had a problem yet!
The best way to replace a sagging headliner is to use one from a later 940/960 model--they fit almost perfectly. Junkyards sell them for next to nothing and this way you maintain the originality; they last much longer than pre 1991 liners. From the junkyard it 'd have to be a DIY as the liners are brittle and delicate to handle. Wagons are much easier to do; the sedans take more time and care. If you have a shop do it INSIST on them using 1/8 thickness material, not the 1/4 commonly used.
I wash my engines with a power sprayer after using some Engine Degreaser. Use common sense as to where you point it avoiding wires, sensors, etc. but generally Volvos are OK with being hosed that way--never had a problem yet!
#4
Not much in the way of tools: torx bits, screwdrivers, 10mm socket, extension, basic stuff... I like to take the sunroof panel too which means the whole sunroof assembly has to come down which is most of the work. On the bright side, you'll learn a lot and have a chance to see how it all works in there.
You take the side panels keeping up the headliner off, (where the handles are), drop the dome light, drop the rear view mirror, drop the visors, (8mm). Better to have an assistant to help hold up the liner and the sunroof... Wagon is much easier than sedan! The sedan's liner is a pain to get out of the car and requires more work, like getting a seat out first--not a must but it helps!
You take the side panels keeping up the headliner off, (where the handles are), drop the dome light, drop the rear view mirror, drop the visors, (8mm). Better to have an assistant to help hold up the liner and the sunroof... Wagon is much easier than sedan! The sedan's liner is a pain to get out of the car and requires more work, like getting a seat out first--not a must but it helps!
Last edited by lev; 07-19-2015 at 02:47 PM.
#5
For the black trim and bumpers the best product is peanut butter, the smooth kind. Use little and work it in a circular pattern with a rag then wipe the entire area with a clean rag. It is cheap, non-toxic, won't damage or stain the paint, and will last as long if not longer than the products specifically made for this because of the oil in the peanut butter making it impermeable to water like wax.
#6
For the black trim and bumpers the best product is peanut butter, the smooth kind. Use little and work it in a circular pattern with a rag then wipe the entire area with a clean rag. It is cheap, non-toxic, won't damage or stain the paint, and will last as long if not longer than the products specifically made for this because of the oil in the peanut butter making it impermeable to water like wax.
How about peanut oil, cheap and not as messy?
#7
the dark grey bumpers on my silver 1992 740T were badly faded, after trying all sorts of stuff, I wet-sanded them with fine wet-dry paper to remove all the sunbleached plastic, then treated them with rubber bumper stuff (Mothers Back To Black), and they looked great for about 3 months, and now have more signs of fade again. sigh.
#8
#10
So after applying the peanut butter, aren't you going to have all kinds of dogs and cats licking the car ? My old 740 had this issue, and when the time came for a new paintjob, I had them paint everything, bumpers, door moldings etc. It turned out excellent, made the car look more modern.
#14
Join Date: Apr 2019
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I just lobbed on some teak oil, and a bit of rapeseed oil onto my bumpers, wiped off th excess, went and had a coffee and a cake, walked th dogs, then came back and wiped it over with a dry cloth, looks fine several months later, costs nothing, just be careful disposing of rags if you used teak or linseed oil as th wicking effect and low flash point means your rags will smoulder if left all crumpled up, I used boot polish on my tyres, brush on, brush off gives a nice non wet look finish.
#15
The reason the black cladding turns grey is from the plastic losing its natural oils. Any of the above suggestions help to replenish these oils and bring back the darkness again. All will only last a finite length of time before needing another treatment, unless you paint them, which I would not suggest. I have had good luck with automatic transmission fluid. Others have suggested Vaseline. I have even seen a heat gun used to bring the oils to the top of the plastic. Never heard the peanut butter suggestion, but anything with some sort of oil in it should work. I like the transmission fluid because it lasted longer than the over the counter products, was very inexpensive and would seem less work than the peanut butter/Vaseline method where more labor is involved. Just my two cents.
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