Hi, first post, a bit long but I am trying to give all the info in one shot.
1990 740 wagon with regina system, 190K miles, I know the original owner, says its all original, he never even changed the timing belt.

I've been reading all the posts with similar symptoms, hard starting etc,
it will fire up after 3- 4 hard tries and run at 1100rpm for about 3 seconds then die off, the tach drops slowly with the rpm, it seems as if its starving for fuel because if I give it a shot of ether down the pressure regulator vac hose it fires right up for 5 seconds. Checked spark with timing light, its good.

If I give itgas and hold it at 2K rpm I can keep it running until it warms up then it will usually settle into 700 rpm idle but it will die after a few minutes, it just slows down and stops.

When it is warmed up and running the engine has no power, giving it gas makes it bog down, it will not go up a shallow hill (comes down pretty good though). Generally it just isn't going anywhere, its not driveable at all as it is. I put fresh fuel in it the last time I managed to get it going (2 weeks ago) and some dry gas, theres still 1/3 tank left.

Plugs are sooty, I cleaned them and regapped, cleaned the dist/rotor up.
Cleaned the idle speed motor, cleaned flame trap, checked the throttle body switch, cleanedit out.

Changed the Coolant temp sensor 6 months ago.
Swapped the MAF sensor
installed new MAP sensor.
New fuel pressure regulator
new intake manifold gasket
timing belt
radio/injector relay
fuel pump relay
New fuel filter.
Checked for vacuum leaks with propane and WD40when idling, no dice.

I'm waiting for new plugs, wires, dist' rotor, TPS (rpm sensor) and the 1 way fuel check valve.

I'm suspecting the pump (only 1 pump on regina) , I tried plugging my multimeter into the harness in the trunk area (its a 740 wagon), turning the key on it shows voltage for 1-2 seconds then drops back down to zero, turning the key further to crank the starterbrings the voltage back up again and it holds around approx 12 volts as long as the starter is cranking.

Then I spliced the meter into the pump wires and tried it with engine running, same thing.
Initial 12 volts then off, then on again as engine cranks, its stays on as engine fires up but drops to zero voltage 1-2 seconds after engine dies. Fuel delivery problem ?
I can hear the pump hum as it primes, its quiet but its there.

Theres a constant 321 code that never clears, butI think thats because the TSB was performed.
After the TSB the cold start injector will always trip that code or so I'm told.
Anyway I put another used cold start injector in 6 months ago and it ran fine with that for 6 months.

Am I on the right track here?
I noticed when Ichanged the cold start injector there wasn't any pressure at the rail, just a dripping of fuel.
That was right after running the engine.
Last week I cracked the fuel rail open again to swap in the new FPR and again,zero fuel pressure to bleed off.
I was expecting a shower and had a rag ready.
I had my wife crank the engine and I half filled a cup with gas in 3-4 seconds but I know that doesn't always relate to actual pressure or ability to maintain pressure.

When I changed the fuel filter last week I didn't realize the brass fitting on the end was a one way valve so I reused it. doh! Thank God for impact wrenches.!

I don't know what else to do, lacking a fuel pressure tester, what else should I be looking at?

Regards Gerard in Boston.

 

I would say either bad fuel pump or maybe clogged Cat converter.

 

I have the EXACT same problem and have done many of the things that he said about to remedy them. Nothing works. Does anyone else have a clue?

 

I have a similar problem also. So to check if its the converter break the exhaust system before the converter to eliminate or confirm the problem.
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Let me know how you fix your problem. I'm still working on mine and I'll let you know when I solve my problem. good luck

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first post here too...

Same thing here: 1990 740 regina

The starter died with no warning, had it replaced and now all the symptoms described above pops up. no power after the engine warms, and a 321 code (just learned that trick).


switched out:
Mass Air Filter, coming out of the air cleaner.
Pressure Sensor (near the diagnostic box)
Idle Air Control Valve

nothing doing.

did find this:
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...gina-cant-code

But nothing is conclusive. Is there a wire coming from the cold start valve to the starter solenoid that wasn't replaced right? could the starter going have blown something in that vacinity?

Would love to know more

thanks.

 

I have a 1990 volvo 740 gl. How can I tell if it has a regnia system or not?

 

I am not familiar with the regina system but before everyone made all of these changes I would have thought the the fuel pump would be the one of the 1st componets to be changed. Has anyone fixed this condition by replacing the fuel pump?

 

To the original poster...the volt readings on the pump are normal. Really sounds like it is the pump failing...or it just might be the pre-pump sock filter in tank. It very well could just be a $5 in tank sock filter.
Fot the other poster that wants to know whether they have Regina or Bosch injection...there are a couple of give aways. The Regina car has no fuel pump under the car (driver side, rear seat...look under the car). Regina has an odd, squarish ignition coil, Bosch has a normal round one.
This is a Regina motor...the coil is just right of the air intake hose going to the throttle body mounted to the strut tower...

 

Is there a way to tell if our Cold Start injector is faulty?

We have searched for a solution, but can't seem to find one. We replaced: O2, Map, IAC, fuel pressure regulator, Air Temp Sens. Engine Temp Sensor, hoses, radio relay, fan relay, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor and cap. Cleaned throttle.

Several mechanics have given the car a tune up and checked CAT converter and pressure. All seems fine.

We still have to check to see if our car has been rewired (cold start should have been rewired to starter motor) according to an old Service Bulletin. Apparently, our car had never been officially rewired but, some mechanics have suggested that it has.

On cold mornings the car starts very poorly. If we accelerate too soon, RPM drops and engine almost dies. When car is warm, it starts nicely and runs well. Other than the cold start, the car runs well getting about 8-11 km per liter.

We wonder if it is in the wiring? Has anyone solved this cold start issue with the Regina Rex Volvo's? We would love to hear from you!

 

You have replaced TOO many parts: Why? Who's throwing all this $ away? The problem with throwing parts at a problem without a decent diagnosis (besides wasting $$$) is that, #1-the new parts may themselves be faulty, #2 new parts may be installed improperly. These days the market is flooded with substandard parts... Most likely there is ONE thing wrong with the car (unlike what mechanics like to tell you), and the biggest job is to find that ONE thing. Given all the parts you have replaced, now what? Look for something you haven't replaced already? I don't think so! I'd go back over everything and double check.

Have you checked the coil grounding? Very common Regina reason for poor performance...

Cold start problem, usually the coolant temperature sensor. You replaced it with what brand?