Was driving home yesterday. Driving 70-80mph. Suddenly gas cut out then cuts back in. Not changing pressure on the gas peddle at all. Car starts to do this for about 10 minutes...pedal is depressed, but gas cuts in and out repeatedly. I'm thinking fuel pump/fuel injector is going bad.

I start to slow down below 60mph to pull over and the gas really starts to cut out. Then I start to pump the pedal and the gas cuts in and out but when I get above 70 the car is running sort of ok, but occaisonally the gas cuts out once a minute. Start to slow down and the gas starts to cut out again. So still thinking fuel pump.

Eventually I have to pull off the highway and the car stalls when I hit the light at the off ramp. Won't start up. After 2-3 minutes car starts and idles for about 10-20 seconds. Try to accelerate get some gas initially then it cuts out immediately. Car stalls. Wont start up.

Wait 5 minutes. Car starts, idles for about a minute no problem. Press the gas car immediately stalls. The long the car sits off, the easier it is to get it started and idle, but then when I press gas it starts to intermittent get gas and then stop and stall.

Get the car towed to local repair shop I know they are expensive but still....

They check car out for $120 in diagnostics. They say fuel pump is fine. They check some wave form in some secondary fuel pump? and the wave form is odd, and occaisonally isn't turning on and they think its due to the MAF. They are only 60% sure its the MAF and want to replace it for...900$.

I'm seeing replacement MAF for 150-300$ and from the sounds of it its not to difficult a task. 800 seems steep? And does this problem sound like a MAF? They said 60% chance it was that, and if it wasn't they would then have to replace the 2nd fuel pump? No idea what that would cost. But The more I research it the more it seem the MAF may be a pricey part, but the install isn't that difficult.

2nd opinion time. I really appreciate it. You guys are always very honest, knowledgeable, and I feel I get a great idea from you all whats going on and what needs to be done.

Btw the shop has test driven the car 3x now and it never has any problems. They say its driving just fine. So I'm pretty confused and not going to Pay 900$ for a 60% chance of repair.

 

did they fill it with gas when they drove it around? and were you less than half tank when you were having the cut out problems?

 

No i was definately around 3/4 tank whem it started. Had just filled up

 

Typical check for a bad MAF is to unplug it and try to run the car. If the car idles and runs ok with it unplugged but then doesn't run with it plugged in means it is bad. Unplugging it puts the ECU in limp home mode. Car won't run the best but it will get you home.

If the shop can't tell the difference between a failed MAF and a failed in-tank pump, I'd take it to another shop. I wouldn't let them replace the MAF for $900 only to find out it doesn't fix your problem.

I keep a spare MAF from a junkyard for these purposes. It's a crap shoot buying one from a junkyard cause you don't know if it is any good until you have bought it. However, since they cost only $25-$35, I thought it was worth a gamble and it paid off for me.

 

My MAF has two #'s on it and both bring up MAF replacements when I search them

1. 0986280101
2. 0280212016

There seems to be a wide range of prices for each # as well and both searches bring up similar appearing MAFs as well. The second appears much cheaper especially used on sites like ebay.... Any one have a further idea of which one is the appropriate part?

 

Your car should have the LH 2.4 fuel injection system. Originally it came with the part #0280212016. The part #0986280101 looks like it is a replacement for it. I went and checked my spare unit and it is a 0280212016. So it looks like either one will work.

By the way, did you check the ECU codes as Pierce suggested on the other thread? It may provide you with info on whether your issue is the MAF or not.

 

I'd definitely unplug the sensor an see if it will keep running (and make sure that your air filter is clean). Then, if no different, I'd pull the spark plugs and see if they are running rich, lean or look normal. If it's running rich I would think that the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or something. By secondary pump, so they mean the one in the tank, or the one under the car? If it's the tank pump, I would think it's not the problem. If it's the one under the car, I would suspect the fuel injection system relay or the injector relay. Maybe the a coil in one of those relays is weak in a section and when it heats up it opens up. Those are a few thoughts for ya.