1992 Volvo 240 A.C. questions...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-20-2012, 07:50 PM
piv15's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default 1992 Volvo 240 A.C. questions...

Currently in my car, the air conditioning doesn't work. No big deal, used to driving in the heat of summer. It'd just be nice to eventually get air conditioning working again. The guy I bought it from said that the air conditioning last worked last summer (of 2011). He said all that should be needed is a recharge. I'm really no dummy when it comes to car air conditioning, and know that if the a.c system isn't ran regularly and well maintained, they can become leaky, decrepit, and become problematic.

Anyhow, I'm basically asking about how much an estimated cost it would be to get it all fixed. Clearly the clutch for the a.c doesn't work, because when it's turned on, it bogs everything down and even causes lighting to dim. Clearly the a.c switch is off limits to touching now. But yeah, an estimate on the cost of a clutch, and possibly anything else that may need to be replaced, if someone could tell me what these things would be. I figure I'm most likely going to have to replace pretty much all of the a.c components, but then again, I'm not sure. So that's why I'm asking.
Any advice or price estimates would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 06-20-2012, 09:27 PM
pierce's Avatar
no mo volvo
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: 37 North on the left coast
Posts: 11,289
Received 101 Likes on 94 Posts
Default

mmm, bogging down sounds to me like the compressor is shot.

but, the charge + ac oil is what lubricates it, so maybe its still workable.
 
  #3  
Old 06-20-2012, 09:44 PM
piv15's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Hmm... think there may be any possibility of leaky hoses/connections? If a routine oil/recharge would fix it, then that'd be great... however leaks would of course cause problems.
 
  #4  
Old 06-20-2012, 11:47 PM
pierce's Avatar
no mo volvo
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: 37 North on the left coast
Posts: 11,289
Received 101 Likes on 94 Posts
Default

well, the standard procedure is to hard evacuate the system (with a vacuum pump) and then wait a half hour or so and verify that the vacuum is holding. if its not holding, you insert a dye and a charge of a non-freon test fluid, and see where its leaking, and repair that.

if the system lost its charge it may also have lost the lubricant, and if the compressor was run dry for any length of time, it may have destroyed the bearings and seals, and you'd need a new compressor before proceeding.

in 1992, systems still used R12, which is no longer available except through back door sources and private stockpiles (its no longer manufactured). to use modern R134a, you'd need to change the O rings and the orifice tube, and the old lubricant has to be flushed out of the system and replaced with a different lubricant. you're also supposed to replace the receiver/dryer.
 
  #5  
Old 06-21-2012, 12:00 AM
piv15's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Alright. I'll most likely have a mechanic look into it. And I think I'll also look through all of the maintenance logs that came with the vehicle to see if the conversion to r134a had been done yet. (Doubt it has) Have any idea what getting the conversion done may cost? And a new compressor? I saw one for $250 on the internet. I'm just trying to get an "in the ball park" range of what I may have to spend.
 
  #6  
Old 06-21-2012, 12:18 AM
pierce's Avatar
no mo volvo
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: 37 North on the left coast
Posts: 11,289
Received 101 Likes on 94 Posts
Default

if the conversion has been done, the fill valves are the new style, and if not, they will be the old style. the old style valves are smaller and look something like a cable TV "F" connector, while the new style are fatter, and have a conical taper on the end, and color coded caps.
 
  #7  
Old 06-21-2012, 12:40 AM
piv15's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I looked through all of the repairs and the various things that had been done... it has in fact been converted which is great. I saw in one of the receipts that a new A/C dryer was installed, and that it had been "retrofitted." I'll still need to get the compressor/clutch looked at though.
 
  #8  
Old 06-21-2012, 04:42 PM
piv15's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Took it to our mechanic today, He said it sounds like I probably need a new compressor when he listened to it. It made awful sounds when the compressor tried to run. So any advice on where to get a new compressor?
 
  #9  
Old 06-21-2012, 06:03 PM
rspi's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 15,765
Likes: 0
Received 30 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

You can start at a junk yard. From there try the online source you seen. I wonder what compressor is on there now?
 
  #10  
Old 06-29-2012, 10:40 AM
craigshensel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Looking at doing a conversion on my AC. What existing parts can you use? What new parts do you have to get? Thanks.
 
  #11  
Old 07-01-2012, 04:12 PM
hvolvo's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

How do you oil a ac comprssor? I know the freon charge is on the left upper engine bay. I see a colored cap. Is that where u hook up the freon?
 
  #12  
Old 07-03-2012, 11:47 AM
hgshaw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hillsboro New Mexico
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I installed a new compressor in my 90 240 a couple months ago. Not a particularly fun job, but doable. My local parts store found a rebuilt for me. Seems it was around $275. The guys at the store guided me through the process and kept me from getting in a hurry or doing anything too dumb. System has been working fine for two months.
 
  #13  
Old 07-05-2012, 08:40 PM
craigshensel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So, what type do you get? Do they make ones for a 1990 240? Mine currently is R12...
 
  #14  
Old 07-06-2012, 06:08 AM
hgshaw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hillsboro New Mexico
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Mine had already been converted to 134, so I simply had to replace the one that was on it. Also replaced both valves on the rear of the compressor and the drier. Flushed it and put 7 oz of oil into the system. About half went in at the drier; the other half into the compressor. The worst part about this vintage of 240s is location of the compressor. I removed the power steering and went in from the top, mainly, to get it out. With suitable tools, you might take it out from below, but I doubt it. Those refrigerant valves located on the rear of the compressor are a pain any time you have to recharge it. Seems they could have been put in a place that is more accessible. Helps to take the skid plate off.

I was lucky in having a couple of guys to guide me through the process. Both had done this themselves and had also watched a lot of others who traded with them, so they knew where I might get in trouble.

Shortly after I finished the job, my wife drove into town and reported a major squeal in the system. She shut it down. I thought I really had blown it, but then discovered that the belt simply needed re-tightening. One big sigh of relief there.
 
  #15  
Old 07-06-2012, 10:22 AM
IRMB's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by piv15
Currently in my car, the air conditioning doesn't work. No big deal, used to driving in the heat of summer. It'd just be nice to eventually get air conditioning working again. The guy I bought it from said that the air conditioning last worked last summer (of 2011). He said all that should be needed is a recharge. I'm really no dummy when it comes to car air conditioning, and know that if the a.c system isn't ran regularly and well maintained, they can become leaky, decrepit, and become problematic.

Anyhow, I'm basically asking about how much an estimated cost it would be to get it all fixed. Clearly the clutch for the a.c doesn't work, because when it's turned on, it bogs everything down and even causes lighting to dim. Clearly the a.c switch is off limits to touching now. But yeah, an estimate on the cost of a clutch, and possibly anything else that may need to be replaced, if someone could tell me what these things would be. I figure I'm most likely going to have to replace pretty much all of the a.c components, but then again, I'm not sure. So that's why I'm asking.
Any advice or price estimates would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
I just had my AC done by a mechanic. Cost was about $300-$350. They had to flush it, replace some valves and a leaky hose.

Works great, now.
 
  #16  
Old 07-07-2012, 08:10 AM
craigshensel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by IRMB
I just had my AC done by a mechanic. Cost was about $300-$350. They had to flush it, replace some valves and a leaky hose.

Works great, now.
Awesome, what are you driving?
 
  #17  
Old 07-07-2012, 10:00 AM
IRMB's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by craigshensel
Awesome, what are you driving?
'92 245. Picked it up a week ago and am working out the bugs.
 
  #18  
Old 07-10-2012, 07:47 PM
coryjsanders's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 1992 240 AC leaking water by feet

First time on forum. Sorry if not posting in correct spot. This is the only thread I can find that addresses 240 AC questions.
I've taken the sides off at the driver and passenger feet -- the plastic covers. It appears there is water coming out of the black plastic enclosures on each side. Sometimes they really drop and your feet get wet. Now there is just evidence of water seeping from the seam. The carpet was wet on the driver side when I got in there. I'm told the drain hose from the condenser is clogged. One picture on a another forum showed the drain tube in the middle of the tranny hump. It's not there. How can I drain my condenser/flush it/stop the water leaking out? Thanks. See picture attached.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1992 Volvo 240 A.C. questions...-imag0485.jpg  
  #19  
Old 07-10-2012, 07:54 PM
pierce's Avatar
no mo volvo
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: 37 North on the left coast
Posts: 11,289
Received 101 Likes on 94 Posts
Default

you're actually best off creating a new thread, as its a new car and new problem.
 
  #20  
Old 08-05-2012, 06:37 PM
hvolvo's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Question how do you oil the ac compessor? I recharged the ac today. I got cold air . The compessor sounds good. The fan in the front of the radiator doesnt turn on. Also what is the gap size to check the clutch on the ac?
 


Quick Reply: 1992 Volvo 240 A.C. questions...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:17 AM.