My ac went out. By went out I mean the compressor is seized when the magnetic clutch is engaged. I'm guessing that means the compressor is shot and will have to be replaced. I called the volvo dealer here in town to see if they had a conversion kit for R134. They don't but the parts guy recommended an R12 substitute. Is anyone here running that?

Thoughts?

Also, before my compressor failed, I was getting lots of water dripping from somewhere behind the firewall coming from the ac system. I have no idea where it could come from and I'm a complete newb with ac systems. Usually, when my ac systems fail, I just don't fix them, but not this time...

I'm open to advice!

 

Hey, you big weasel. From what I have heard R-12 substitutes arent nearly as effective as the real deal.

Your water drip, pull the glovebox out (4-6 easy access screws) and you can see up in that area unobstructed, and ascertain the source of your leak.

Bueno Suerte!

 

That is true, I've used freeze 12. For $20 you can get your EPA section 609 certification online, which will allow you purchase old cans of R12 from ebay.

 

Most of the R12 substitutes I've seen that were not hydrocarbon based were essentially R134a. If you do not wish the expense of going back w/ R12 (the best option), then a conversion to R134a is really not that difficult. Because your compressor seized, a flush of the system would be warranted. There's liable to be metal throughout the system.

 

Speaking of R-12, I have some listed for sale in the classifieds. 30 lb. cylinders though.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. So I'm guessing that my local dealer can't just fill 'er up with R12?

I asked my dealer about the conversion kit for R134 but he said it's expensive and a pain. I'm still not totally sure what to do but I want to decide before I shell out mucho pesos for a new compressor.

 

Sure you can. There's actually a glut of R12 nowadays and the price is dropping. The demand has diminished as cars haven't used it since 92. Those cars still on the road either have non-functional a/c or have been converted to R134a. Nation wide, it is a very small niche market indeed that demands R12. Since R12 is still manufactured in Mexico, the supply has never dryed up. Expect to pay $100-175 for refrigerant.
As to your dealer saying conversion is a "pain", either he is woefully ignorant of Volvos or just plain ignorant. It is child's play to convert to R134a.

 

Ahhh, Swift, regarding your last paragraph...the conversion isn't so basic. People I know that have done the conversion have had so many issues, they have all said it would have been better to leave the system the way it was designed, because of so many problems that developed later as a result of the switch. Ya know the old acronym, KISS...It applies here.

 

Well, I suppose it is a matter of perspective related to overall familiarity with the system and refrigeration principles in general. A/C is nothing more than plumbing with an integral "pump". The fundamentals do not change whether it is R12, R134a, R1234a or hydrocarbon based or even CO2 based.
To convert a 240 to R134a, it is a simple matter of a. evacuating the system, including extraction of all possible residual mineral oil b. continue pulling a vacuum to do a leak down test for thirty minutes. If it passes, proceed. If not, attempt to find the leak c. Screw a low side conversion fitting onto the existing low side Shraeder valve. For 90 and older 240's, this will be on the back of the compressor. For 91 and newer, it will be on the accumulator on the passenger side firewall. It is nice to buy a 90 degree "L" adapter for the compressor low side valve; makes getting the gauge on much easier. d. add the appropriate amount of refrigerant and oil, check pressures and vent temps. You're done!
When R134a came out, there was so much BS about total system dismantlement and flushing, replacing every single o-ring (which you should if you took the entire thing apart), replacing all the hoses because the molecules of R134a would percolate smack through R12 hoses and other stuff...perhaps it's all true in theory but in a vehicle that loses X amount of refrigerant per season, the actual increase/decrease is rarely measurable. Certainly, any portion of the system cracked open for repair or cleaning...gets new o-rings...but if it ain't broke...don't fix it.
The vast amount of conversion horror stories I've heard were back when people did not attempt to remove the vast majority of mineral oil from the old system. R134a uses PAG oil and when mixed w/ mineral oil turns to goo. Once the ester oil was introduced for conversions, all that went away. With a modern, professional (and automated!) a/c service machine enough mineral oil is extracted that PAG oil can safely be used.
If the compressor has died a horrible death, we typically like to replace the entire system...evap, condensor, dryer/accumulator and compressor. A flush is done at that time and, while always a prudent thing, is not done routinely as it is not cost effective. Furthermore, it is a rare customer indeed that will spring for 2k worth of a/c work on a 1k car.
We don't specialize in a/c work...but we do a heck of a lot...not sure why....

 

this is just the condensation draining off from the drain tube just over the trans tunnel... if it wasn't dripping water while the a/c was running, you'd have some pretty wet floors.

 

yes, either the tube is clogged or the hose has popped out or rotted where it enters the floor pan.

 

Swift, what's all that nasty black tar like crap I found all over my AC tubes up in there? Strangest insulation I have ever seen....

 

The polite term for that is "Volvo Poo". It's some nasty stuff to be sure. When you replace the expansion valve, wear gloves! The guy that installed that stuff as well as the poor guy who sprayed undercoating had to have the nastiest jobs in Goteburg! Now there is a similar compound that comes as tape that you wrap around it...much neater!

 

You totally made me LOL as I read "volvo poo". Thanks!