ball joint, passenger side, with power steering
#1
ball joint, passenger side, with power steering
Hi,
I've heard so many times not to take my Volvo to a mechanic.
So, now I'm thinking about replacing the front right ball joint, but have no idea where to start. Is this a bad idea to try it myself, or is it an easy task?
any advise would be greatly appreciated!
PS- the mechanic is the one that told me it was the ball joint that was causing the squeaking and popping from the front end when the wheel is turning? Sound probabable?
thanks again!
I've heard so many times not to take my Volvo to a mechanic.
So, now I'm thinking about replacing the front right ball joint, but have no idea where to start. Is this a bad idea to try it myself, or is it an easy task?
any advise would be greatly appreciated!
PS- the mechanic is the one that told me it was the ball joint that was causing the squeaking and popping from the front end when the wheel is turning? Sound probabable?
thanks again!
#3
#4
RE: ball joint, passenger side, with power steering
I got it done!
There is a plate that goes inbetween the control arm and the ball joint.
the four bolts that hold it to the control arm need to be removed before the ball joint nut can be accessed. Those four bolts are recomended to be replaced onced removed, according to the Bently. I did NOT replace them. Is it a big deal? I went to the parts store to find the bolts and they said the bolts needed to be hardened or something, and that no one would have them available. Could that be true?
Also, the nut on the ball joint was darn near immpossible to get off! It seems to be connected to the ball, which spins freely. I ended up puting a load on it with c-clamps to get it, but what a pain! There's gotta be a better way?
Any input would be appretiated. I have to do the other one before long.
Thanks
There is a plate that goes inbetween the control arm and the ball joint.
the four bolts that hold it to the control arm need to be removed before the ball joint nut can be accessed. Those four bolts are recomended to be replaced onced removed, according to the Bently. I did NOT replace them. Is it a big deal? I went to the parts store to find the bolts and they said the bolts needed to be hardened or something, and that no one would have them available. Could that be true?
Also, the nut on the ball joint was darn near immpossible to get off! It seems to be connected to the ball, which spins freely. I ended up puting a load on it with c-clamps to get it, but what a pain! There's gotta be a better way?
Any input would be appretiated. I have to do the other one before long.
Thanks
#5
#6
RE: ball joint, passenger side, with power steering
You usually use a tool called a picklefork (ok) or a ball joint separator jc whitney (better) to get the tapered part out. I also saw a mechanic knock the crap out of the joint with a BFH and it fell out. That (was) is too brutal a method for me. After you have done a few it is like childs play. I much prefer balljoints over kingpins. Oh hell I just showed everyone how old I am.
#7
RE: ball joint, passenger side, with power steering
ORIGINAL: wojeepster
You usually use a tool called a picklefork (ok) or a ball joint separator jc whitney (better) to get the tapered part out. I also saw a mechanic knock the crap out of the joint with a BFH and it fell out. That (was) is too brutal a method for me. After you have done a few it is like childs play. I much prefer balljoints over kingpins. Oh hell I just showed everyone how old I am.
You usually use a tool called a picklefork (ok) or a ball joint separator jc whitney (better) to get the tapered part out. I also saw a mechanic knock the crap out of the joint with a BFH and it fell out. That (was) is too brutal a method for me. After you have done a few it is like childs play. I much prefer balljoints over kingpins. Oh hell I just showed everyone how old I am.
I have never been able to develop the proper "BFH Technique" for ball joint and tie rod end removal. Yet, I have often seen it done with a single blow!
I use a BJ Separator tool myself. I'll keep Tech's impact gun tip in mind (now that I have one).
+++++++++
Obtain high strength (grade 5 or 8) nuts and bolts from a store that caters to the trade, or order in advance from a jobber such as McMaster-Carr
LINK to McMaster-Carr catalog
If any of the nuts used are "Nylock" (have a locking nylon band on the threads) these should replaced rather than reused, or, you could try Locktite on them. The idea is not to allow them to loosen. I suggest checking the tightness of the hardware you installed.
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indagutter
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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10-11-2004 07:10 PM