FAQ's for RWD owners (post links please....) - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum


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Old 09-29-2009, 12:03 AM
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Exclamation FAQ's for RWD owners (post links please....)

Here is a list, well a start, of FAQ's for rwd owners. If you want to add a good link to a thread on this site, PM me and I will add it, or post it here.

Engine:

K-jet Swap To LH2.2 (adub96): http://www.volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37652

Transmission:
Overdrive issues
Overdrive issues

Over Drive Mod (Fresheadies): Overdrive ceased to function?
Transmission mount Replacement (Fresheadies): Transmission Mount Replacement

Suspension/ Brakes:

Electrical issues:

Reverse Light fix: Volvo 240 reverse light fix



Other Stuff:


Head light removal and also painting steps (deluxe): Volvo 240 PlastiDip Tutorial

Please find some good links and post up!
Also, please dont ask maintenance questions in this thread.

Thanks!

Last edited by TIPSP; 11-28-2013 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:19 AM
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For the engine/fuel area. We should add that usually if your car is performing poorly below a half tank of gas or stutters when accelerating its 90% of the time going to be your intank fuel pump.
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Old 12-14-2009, 01:06 PM
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Kjet.org Green Books. These are the service books used by Volvo and they are extremely helpful.

http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/

This guy knows his stuff and has a lot of old scans and information for the 240's

http://www.davebarton.com/
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Old 12-14-2009, 01:07 PM
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STAGED PERFORMANCE MODIFICATIONS FOR 240's

WARNING: excessive turbo boost combined with lean mixtures, bad fuel and wrong ignition timing can cause major engine damage very quickly. The Volvo B21FT engine does not have a fuel system with a lot of extra capacity to support great amounts of horsepower without leanning out (lean mixtures mean quick death to a turbo engine). Another weak link is the ignition retard system; it does NOT have a knock sensor to retard ignition timing if detonation occurs. If you can't detect light detonation by ear, donīt use high octane gas, or are not sure about the air/fuel ratio at high boost, do not attempt to raise turbo boost. Remember: "IF YOU GRAB A TIGER BY IT'S TAIL, YOU'D BETTER KNOW WHAT THE HELL YOU ARE DOING!" In this case the "tiger" is boost.

STAGE 0 (165HP) - "Tune up".

This stage covers regular maintenance stuff, if you have taken great care of your turbo motor, this stage will be the easiest!

Perform a leak-down test: an engine with more than 10% leakeage needs to be rebuilt, top performance achieved below 3%. If you need to rebuild the engine, consider a B23FT or ī90-on B230FT bottom-end with custom 7.5-8.0:1 compression ratio for more displacement. If your goal is "extreme performance" (way more than 250 HP, using a stronger transmission), then your first stage should be a building super strong (maybe a 2500 cc. " monster") motor with more displacement. Volvo made the parts to withstand 400 HP, you only need to get custom low compression forged pistons.
Replace plugs, wires, cap and rotor: NGK BP7ES work very well. A set of high quality low resistance wires are a good investment. MSD wires are good although the distributor boots need to be replaced with straight ones.
Index spark plugs (optional)
Adjust. initial advance at 12° BTDC.
Check the boost retard diaphragm operation by gently applying some pressure from say a bike pump and watch for retard at timing marks. Besides make sure to use hose clamps for these little "vaccum" hoses, boost can blow them off.
Clean the fuel injectors: if you have more than 100 K miles and havenīt used very good fuel, itīs a good idea to have the injectors professionally cleaned or replaced. In some cases a good injector cleaner like Techron will do.
Clean in-tank screen and ensure both fuel pumps are working correctly (no noises or groans and at least 12 volts at the main pump)
Remove intercooler and drain any condensed oil out
Upgrade in-tank pump to late model or replacement high volume unit: if your in-tank pump is weak, get a late model unit when replacing it.
Backflush fuel pump internal screen: only if you are having fuel delivery problems. The system should flow about 1.8 liters per minute through the return line in the flow test..
Check/ clean/ replace oil vapor trap: this is very important since a clogged oil trap will create elevated crankcase pressures that will lead to engine seals failure.
Replace the 197°F thermostat with a 180°F unit: the lower temp. will help the engine stay out of detonation.
Replace the air cleaner: K&N recently launched the B21FT air filter to the US market.
Replace the fuel filter
Check and adjust turbo boost pressure (10.5 psi over 4000 RPM)
Use premium unleaded fuel only (92+ octane)
Synthetic oils everywhere highly recomended (10W30 winter / 15W50 summer)
Install a calibrated boost gauge. (The VDO cockpit is a drop-in replacement)
Install an Air/Fuel ratio meter. (The Cyberdyne A/F meter being tested by yours truly)
STAGE I (180 HP) - "Airbox modification and Free flow exhaust system".

Modify the airbox intake tract: see Jon Glommenīs Airbox Modification article
2.5-3" catalytic converter: if laws allow..... delete the thing from the system!
2.5-3" cat-back system with free flow muffler: a 2.5 inch system and good performance muffler (Walker Dynomax, UltraFlo, Flowmaster, etc) is good for almost 300 HP. Remember that turbo engines need very little muffling to be quiet, straight-through designs work very well. You can even use a 3" muffler even if your exhaust system is only 2.5 inch..
Power gain: 15-20 HP.

WARNING: do not proceed to the following stages if you are unsure about the proper Air/Fuel ratios and detonation recognition. An A/F meter and 95+ octane fuel highly recommended (even higher required under hot weather). Remember that the ignition system in the B21FT is "deaf"(no knock control whatsoever) . Please read this: DETONATION.

STAGE III (195HP) - "Boost control device".

Here is where things get interesting and very delicate. If your engine is not prepared for more boost, you are in for serious engine damage. Detonation and increased exhaust gas temperatures will eat up your engine in no time. Remember, the B21FT DOES NOT have safety systems to avoid detonation. Be prepared to listen carefully for detonation when full boost arrives (specially between 3000 and 4000 RPM). If you hear any pinging, back off that gas pedal NOW! Also remember that weather conditions vary the detonation threshold, cooler weather being much better than hot weather. For example, even if your engine runs excellent in 60 °F weather, it might ping badly in 90 + °F weather. If you would like the engine to take care of itself, there is a safety system that you could install called APC. This Saab system listens for detonation and regulates boost accordingly. It allows the maximum boost the engine will take without pinging. For information on this system, visit the Volvo APC Site.

Bypass boost control solenoid
Set boost to 13 psi (intercooled models only)
Extra fuel: you could use the cold start injector to spray fuel after 10 psi using a pressure switch. The porpuse is to richen the mixture and lower the detonation threshold.
Power gain: 15 HP

STAGE IV (200HP) - "Ignition improvement".

Perf. ignition system: our members have tried them all, and the MSD systems are the favorite. The MSD 6AL (RPM limiter) is nice, but the MSD 6 BTM is the nicest of all with the adjustable timing retard proportional to boost.
Power gain: 5 HP

STAGE V (200HP) - "Performance Clutch".

If your stock clutch is just a bit tired, itīll let you know as soon as you hit 200 HP. Since the M46 transmission wonīt hold up at over 250 HP, there is no point in installing a super strong clutch with this transmission, a slipping clutch might help you save the tranny acting as a torque regulator.

Centerforce I clutch: a stronger clutch is not recomended because the M46 needs a "torque regulator" to help dampen and survive shock loads under agressive driving.
Modified engine mounts: see Adam Smithīs engine mounts modification article.
STAGE VI (220 HP) -"Perf. intake, exhaust and cam".

Notice that we are still at 13 psi, at this stage is where bolt-ons end. However, you can skip this stage is you wish to keep raising boost and managing the fuel and ignition curves. This stage concentrated on improving Volumetric Efficiency,that will let your engine make more power at any boost level and rev beyond 6000 RPM with ease. You need to remove the head to install a better head gasket and maybe o-ring the block for extra reliability. While you are at it, a valve job is a wise decision.

B23/ B230 EFI Intake manifold and throttle body: better airflow, it has tunned runners.
"A" grind cam and Volvo double springs: this cam can only be found in the B21/B23A and B23/B230ET engines that were never sold in the US. This cam will change your engineīs personality. It broadens the power band by about 1000 RPM, making the engine rev easily to 6500 RPM. It makes the transition from first to second gear (M46 with awfully wide ratios) much better.. Low end torque and idle quality will suffer, but not much (it idles at 17" of vaccum). Advancing the cam 4° helps the low-end torque with almost no sacrifice to the top-end. We are not saying that this is the best cam for the B21FT, just a cam that we have found to work well. We are still researching for new alternatives such as the V, VX, VX3, T5, and custom grinds. If you have any experience and real world data on any performance cam, please drop me a note at: :amorales@chiriqui.com
ī90- on B230 exhaust manifold (Part #: 3514440): this manifold needs to be machined for use with the Garret T3 Turbo style turbine housing.
High performance head gasket: the Felpro gasket has been reported as being a good performer. The OEM gasket is very good as well, however, get the early non-TTY head bolts for extra torque capacity. Group 6 sells a copper head gasket that is hard to seal with less than immaculate mating surfaces and without weird sealants. The best option for ultra high boost (over 18 psi) is block o-ringing. If you can rent the Iskenderian tool, the block doesnīt need to be removed from the engine. A stock gasket and o-ringed block will hold 25+ psi of boost.
Electric main cooling fans: this engine, with the thick A/C-condenser/intercooler/radiator sandwich, needs a very powerfull 16 inch puller fan PLUS a 12 inch pusher to work well. A higher output alternator is needed to power these fans
Electronic 5th injector system: your stock CIS injection wonīt supply enough fuel for 215 HP. Turbobricks member, Denis LīEspérance, is developing a low-cost, high performance, boost and RPM sensitive injector controller with capacity for 4 extra injectors. HKS, Greddy, Select Sales and others have AICīs from $320-800. As a cheap alternative, you can use the cold start injector or a small electronic injector (150 cc./min) placed some 10 inches before the throttle body (to aid fuel atomization). You could even install more than one using a separate pressure switch for each one of the injectors. Say, one turns on at 10 psi and the other at 15 psi.
Power gain: 20 HP

STAGE VII (240 HP) - "High boost".

Compressor bypass valve: this device will reduce turbo lag between shifts and protect your turbo by avoiding compressor surge. 700 series turbos use bypass valves, thatīs one alternative. The aftermarket sells a wide variety of these valves, some of them vent surge pressure to the atmosphere making trick sounds (Greedy, HKS, etc). A good source for new Bosch bypass valves is your local Saab dealer. You can install two of these in high power applications.
ADJUST FUEL CUT OUT SWITCH TO 19 PSI: if you donīt have installed the APC system, this is your only safety device other than your sharp ears and right foot.
Set boost to 16-17 psi
Water injection: an optional safety device.
Octane booster or high quality gasoline.
TUNING: unless you have the APC system, you need to carefully tailor your fuel and ignition curves and use high octane fuel to avoid the most feared enemy of any turbocharged engine: detonation. First, you must provide a rich mixture under boost at any RPM. Remember that a right mixture at 5000 RPM could lean out at 6500. A rich mixture is your first step towards detonation prevention. How rich? As rich as it can run without hesitation; in my experience, about 930-950 mV. of O2 sensor output (Bosch 3-wire).

Second, set your ignition timing at 10-12° BTDC if you donīt have any aftermarket boost-retard system. This yields about 26-28° of total advance over 3000 RPM and any boost condition, a bit too much under hot weather, 13+ psi and pump gas. Because of this, use power/boost with caution under hot weather and when using pump gas, if you hear any suspicious noise under the hood, back off the gas now! Another thing to remember: adjust your maximum boost in 4th gear (going uphill preferably) to avoid over-boosting due to boost creep with the pneumatic boost control systems.

Again, you can install an APC system and enjoy the peace of mind. Itīll give you max. possible boost under the prevailing conditions. Itīs like having a competitive tuner under the hood adjusting your boost presure, keeping the engine at the edge of detonation. You rest and watch how changes in fuel quality, timing advance, ambient air temp, A/F ratios, etc, move the detonation threshold up and down just by looking at the boost pressure provided by the APC brain.

Power gain: 15-20 HP

STAGE VIII (250HP) - "Upgraded turbo".

Our last real stage, we have cars with this setup and it works very well. An engine prepared up to stage VIII specifications can use higher boost given enough high octane fuel through the aditional electronic injectors. The weak link at this point is the M46 transmission, it wonīt survive at over 250 HP. The options are the Toyota Supra and Getrag transmissions with a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, these are strong enough for 400 HP. For more datails, read Jon Glommenīs transmission swap article.

Garret T3, Trim-60 compressor and 0.63 A/R Turbine housing OR T-3/T04 watercooled hybrid turbo (H3-trim compressor & 0.63 A/R )
Lower boost to 16 psi.
3" downpipe.
Power gain: 10 HP.

Contributed by: Angel Morales with Jon Glommen, and Anthony Hyde.
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  #5  
Old 12-16-2009, 09:10 PM
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This is a great site for info for 7xx/9xx series: http://www.vcoa.org/700-900-faq/FAQSummary1.html
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:19 AM
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http://www.kaplhenke.com

140:
1974 140 Panhard Bar: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=70&Itemid=52
<1974 140 Panhard Bar: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=72&Itemid=52
adjustable torque rods: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=71&Itemid=52

240:
Koni Dampeners: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=78&Itemid=33
Dual Pattern Ford T5/TKO Adapter: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=73&Itemid=33
Wheel Spacers and Extended Studs: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=65&Itemid=33
Adjustable Torque Rods: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=41&Itemid=33
Adjustable Panhardbar: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=40&Itemid=33
Racing Steering wheel adapter: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=39&Itemid=33
Side Mount Seat Brackets: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=37&Itemid=33
Coilover shock options for trailing arms: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=36&Itemid=33
Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=35&Itemid=33
Short Struts: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=34&Itemid=33
Coilovers: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=33&Itemid=33
Adjustable Trailing Arms: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=29&Itemid=33
Control Arms: Race Spec: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=28&Itemid=33
Control Arms: Street Spec: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=27&Itemid=33
Camber Plates: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=26&Itemid=33

700/900
Koni Dampers: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=80&Itemid=34
Adjustable Strut Mounts: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=75&Itemid=34
Racing Steering Wheel Adapter: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=63&Itemid=34
1995+ 960 Front Coilovers: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=56&Itemid=34
Adjustable Torque Rods: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=50&Itemid=34
Side Mount Race Seat Brackets: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=49&Itemid=34
Coilovers: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=48&Itemid=34
Subframe: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=47&Itemid=34
Adjustable Panhard Bar: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=46&Itemid=34
IRS rear coilovers: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=45&Itemid=34
IRS Stay Rods: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=44&Itemid=34
Short Coilover Struts: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=43&Itemid=34
Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=42&Itemid=34

850/S70
850 Koni Dampers: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=81&Itemid=35
FWD / AWD Wheel Stud Conversion: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=64&Itemid=35
850 StopTech Big Brake Upgrade: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=54&Itemid=35
850 Adjustable Control Arms: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=53&Itemid=35
850 Coilovers: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=52&Itemid=35
850 Adjustable Strut Mounts: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=51&Itemid=35

Powertrain
M14 x 1.5 Oil Pressure Adapter Bushing: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=83&Itemid=41
Stainless Steel Valves: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=30&Itemid=41

Driving Equipment
OMP WRC Steering Wheel: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=62&Itemid=49
OMP Seats: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=61&Itemid=49
Sparco Seats: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=60&Itemid=49

EDIT: F...I just realized this wasn't the thread I had intended this to go it....sorry guys.

Last edited by cbevis; 01-05-2010 at 12:14 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-12-2010, 04:47 PM
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How about the link to "how to check volvo codes"???

http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:49 PM
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Default Link to change timing belt???

Can someone please post a link on how to change the timing belt
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo View Post
Can someone please post a link on how to change the timing belt
Use the search function within the 240 forum. Hit search, then hit advanced search. On the left, choose thread topic...type in "timing belt". It will pull up several threads.
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo View Post
Can someone please post a link on how to change the timing belt
I'm trying to get some good links put together for reference. School is taking more of my time than I'd like, but I'll get it together for us eventually. Also, I'm hoping my belt makes it until the weather warms up.
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:18 PM
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some useful 240, 740/940 links I've collected
Parts vendors
custom seat covers

Last edited by pierce; 08-09-2011 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:33 PM
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Maintenance FAQ for Volvo 700 900 S90 V90 Series: Volvo Maintenance Hints for 700 900 S90 V90 Models

Heater core replacement: Volvo 700/900 Heater Core Replacement

Many more goodies on that site.
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  #14  
Old 08-18-2012, 10:22 PM
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VCOA sells DVDs, 1 each for the 2x0, 7x0, 9x0/s90/v90 families. These DVD's are $65 each, and contain COMPLETE set of greenbooks, not just year by year wiring diagrams, but ALL the volvo service literature available for each series.

The downside is they are VERY copy protected, the 'reader' program that displays the greenbooks has to be 'activated' on your PC, and it blocks all attempts at screen printing, and won't let you print to PDF with any pdf printer I've found to date. Printouts to a real printer get heavily watermarked. ALso it won't let you use 'remote desktop' which I find annoying as I installed this stuff on my home desktop system, which I frequently access from my laptop.

The early 240 document scans are a little rough, but the later stuff is mostly decent quality scans, easy enough to read.

This is a gold mine of technical info on vehicle maintenance and repairs, I have the 2x0 and 9x0 disks and in spite of my annoyances at the software, they are worth every sent of the $65 each.

oh. VCOA is frequently out of stock of one or another of them.

Multimedia
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:19 PM
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Volvo lightbulbs...

European cars do NOT like the common brass based american car lights like 1157 etc. The correct bulbs have chrome bases and different specs.

the "Sylv" number in the first column is commonly available Sylvania auto lamps sold in American parts stores. The ECE column is the european designation as found in our Volvo owners manuals, and the Base is the ISO designation for the base (Bayonet 15mm, single or double filament for all these bulbs)

Code:
Sylv  ECE     Base       Usage
====  ====    =====      =====================
5007  R5W     BA15s      Tail/Parking Light single filament small globe
7506  P21W    BA15s      Turn, Brake, Reverse single filament
7507  PY21W   BAU15s     (AMBER Turn)
7528  P21/5W  BAY15d     Brake+Tail dual filament
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Old 04-12-2014, 04:49 PM
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Default LH2.4, EZ116K pinouts

the wiring colors are from a 1991 240 greenbook, other years may vary, but the pinouts of all LH2.4 and EZ116K control units is pretty much the same.


LH2.4 ECU:
1 - brown - to ICU pin 17
2 - yellow white - to ICU pin 7 and throttle idle switch
3 - blue-white - to full throttle switch
4 - red - always on power
5 - brown-black - ground
6 - green-yellow to MAF pin 2
7 - red-white to MAF pin 3
8 - white to MAF pin 4
9 - orange - switched power from fuel pump relay
10 - NC
11 - NC
12 - green-black to diagnostic box socket 2
13 - blue-red to coolant temp sensor
14 - green to AC pressure switch
15 - grey-red from AC relay
16 - NC
17 - black - main ground
18 - green-white - injector control
19 - brown-black - option jumpers
20 - blue-green - control to fuel pump relay
21 - yellow-black - control to fuel injection relay
22 - pink-white - to ICU pin 3
23 - NC
24 - green - signal from O2 sensor
25 - yellow-brown to ICU pin 8
26 - violet - shift indicator light (manual gearbox only)
27 - NC
28 - brown-white to ICU pin 4
29 - black to option jumper
30 - blue-yellow from ignition switch starter contact
31 - NC
32 - white/black to cold start injector
33 - green-red to idle air control
34 - blue-black from speedo signal
35 - blue from ignition switch 'run'.


EZ-116K ICU:
1 - white to diagnostic controller socket 6
2 - blue-red from coolant temp sensor
3 - pink-white to ECU pin 22
4 - brown-white to ECU pin 28
5 - red - unswitched power
6 - blue - ignition switched power on run
7 - yellow-white from full throttle switch
8 - yellow-brown from ECU pin 25
9 - NC
10 - blue-yellow - signal from crank position sensor (CPS)
11 - black shield ground from CPS
12 - black ground to knock sensor
13 - green signal from knock sensor
14 - black ground for California EGR
15 - white-black signal to EGR
16 - grey to ignition power module
17 - brown to ECU pin 1
18 - NC
19 - NC
20 - brown-black - ground
21 - NC
22 - violet for EGR temp sensor
23 - red-yellow - signal from CPS
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