Recently the overdrive in my 92 940GL ceased to function and as I browsed the forums I realized that this seemed to be a common issue. Through the help of two members (regime and bubba240) I was able to fix this problem myself quite easily. I am in no way, shape or form an experienced mechanic. Just a young bachelor who needs to save money so if you have a means to get under your vehicle and have access to basic tools you can do this too.

Instead of going through the trouble of diagnosing different problems with the relay, solenoid, buttons , etc. this is a (generally speaking) 'cure-all' for this specific problem.

Note: This small 'how-to' only covers how to remove the old solenoid and replace it with a small plate that will keep the 4th gear permanently engaged. This does not cover replacing/diagnosing the relay, solenoid, wiring, etc. However, should you choose to replace the old solenoid/relay in the future you can simply remove this plate. Also, I know of no way to remove the old solenoid from the vehicle other than cutting the wire. Please notify me if this is incorrect. I managed to zip-tie mine to my chassis through the holes on the solenoid where the bolts were. With that being said.....

You will need:

1. 12mm ratcheting wrench. A flex head is preferable but I was able to complete this job without one.
2. The plate itself which can be purchase here:http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-200/Tran...-266-672-1891/
3.O-Ring pick
4. A shop mirror as the bolts are facing upwards
5. PB Blaster never hurts when removing old rusty bolts. For best results apply thoroughly and set for a day. Coating the bolts with White Lithium grease prior to screwing them back in is a good idea as well.
6. Drain pan

The job is very simple. Simply lift your vehicle and locate your overdrive solenoid. This will be located on the driver's side, on the top of transmission pan near the edge. As long as you are underneath the vehicle sufficiently, it should be visible. To remove the solenoid, simply remove the two bolts (12mm) holding the solenoid to the transmission pan. There is not much room to maneuver but it can be done. I found it easiest to remove the bolts in this way but suggestions (as always) are welcome:

To remove the rearmost bolt reach through the crossmember with the wrench. It will provide you more space to crank and you will have a superior grip as opposed to the flex head. You will now see why the ratcheting wrench is necessary! The front bolt is best accessed by reaching through the space between the transmission and the transmission return line(?). Again, a ratcheting wrench will be your best friend here.

Be aware that transmission fluid may seep out from the pan once the solenoid is removed so have a drain pan at hand. Once the old solenoid is removed carefully remove any remaining O-Ring's on the transmission with a pick. Check the surface are of where the solenoid sat on the transmission and carefully clear away any grime or build up making sure not to let any dirt get in the exposed area of your transmission and/or where the plate will sit. To finish, simply install the plate with the O-Ring facing downwards. The plate is shaped like a trapezoid so place the plate with the 'pointed end' facing towards the transmission. Screw in the bolts with the washers and you should be good to go!



Photographs are provided to below to help with this:

1.Overdrive bypass plate and bolts: http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...teandbolts.jpg

2. Removed O-Rings: http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...ODplate006.jpg

3. Transmission with removed solenoid and O-Rings: http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...oidremoved.jpg

4. Transmission with plate installed: http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...sinstalled.jpg

I hope this helps anyone in need. If you have any suggestions or additions to this, please feel free. Thanks again to regime and especially bubba240 for all their help. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the write-up. I would like to add that it is best to remove the OD relay once you install the bypass plate to prevent an accidental short.

 

Note that if you live in a salty-road state and you don't PB Blast those two bolts several times in advance, you may find yourself investing in a bolt-out set and a pack of band-aids to get the damn solenoid off.

 

Thank you Fresheadies for this great instruction. One question. Where did you locate those two o rings. Thanks again.

 

Just an update on this, the new link to purchase the plate is:
Automatic Over-Drive Solenoid Bypass Kit

Thanks for the how-to!! I just ordered the plate and am going to use your instructions on my 1984 244 GL.

 

There must be enough of us to form an OD Bypass Club. Warning to future readers: if you have a mechanic install the bypass for you, don't assume he knows enough about it that he'll be sure to remove the solenoid's "O" rings from the ledge of the transmission where the bypass plate is to be placed. The one I went to left the little one right where it came off the solenoid and it was doing a great job of blocking 4th gear from beneath the bypass plate. The prospect of having a transmission job was enough to get myself under the car as per instructions above and see the reason the
plate wasn't working. Suggestion: If you're going to have a mechanic do it for you, tell him to save the two rubber o-rings from the selenoid for you.

 

Here is something else to consider:
You can create your own version of the bypass plate by cutting a channel in your existing solenoid using a dremel and a cutoff wheel. That is what I did instead of buying the plate.

 

I just really hope I don't run into any problems installing it. I never want to see that overdrive light on my dash again, it's killing my fuel economy..

 

Just had my overdrive bypass plate installed yesterday and it worked great, I'm loving it! Thanks so much for the info, otherwise I would have wasted a lot of money.

A note I wanted to add, maybe it's just me, but the "no overdrive" light or arrow has stayed on, even though my overdrive is now functioning properly. I just ignore it, but in case anybody else is worried about the light staying on, it doesn't appear to be a problem.

 

My OD was coming on/off unpredictably.For me, 1992 740 Station Wagon, 200k+ Miles, It was the OD Relay. Removed the relay (behind fuses), took the plastic cover off relay, stuck a toothpick piece (does'nt contact electricity - just in case) and wedged it in to keep the contact OPEN. Worked perfectly. Taking the Plastic Cover off the relay was easy - I used two little knives to keep the tabs open an slid it off. After the "Wedge" surgery, slid it right back on. Piece of cake. No light, Overdrive always on. I don't tow anything, therefore no need for OD. Even if I did need OD, I could always simply downshift. Sure, I could have spent the $50 to replace, but this fix was fun and cost no $$, and 30 minutes - Viola! BTW, there is nothing special about removing a relay - simply pull it straight up. Excellent Relay Location Diagrams can be found via Google Search. This car is perfect for the DIY'er. Cheers!

 

No Relay, No Light. Problem is removing will also keep the car from going into OD, unless you do the Bypass described here, or use the "Wedge" Surgery if no bypass is needed and it's only the relay. Cheers!

 

kennbeal, Thanks for posting on this thread. My car's OD quit on Wednesday. I bought the car from my brother and he must have known the same fix. There was a piece of folded up paper stuffed in between the contacts but I took it out because it looked as if the contacts were touching. I used a toothpick as per your suggestion. Took her for a test spin and...OD is back (the up arrow light never came on). I will eventually do the under car solenoid plate switch but, for now, I am happy. Your thread came at the right time. Thanks again, Jim

 

i am having a problem with overdrive on my 1982 240 GLT, and would prefer to fix it if possible rather than install a bypass plate. The overdrive always works fine initially when i flick the switch on the gearshift, the overdrive light comes on and OD engages and all is well, but once the car has been running for a while, say 15 mins or so, the overdrive slips out and won't re-engage. But if the car has sat for a while then the overdrive works again next time i try it, but again only for a while. Any ideas on what this could be caused by?

 

Jeff - does the light work (cycles on/off as you repeatedly push the button) when its in the failure state?

if yes, then your problem is likely inside the transmission.

if no, then its going to be a temperature related issue with the switch, relay, or wiring.

btw. terminology. when the overdrive light is on, the actual overdrive is disabled. overdrive is effectively a 4th gear on these cars. press the button to light the light, and you're forced back to third gear, useful for towing, mountain driving, engine braking, etc.. when the OD light is OFF, then the OD will engage automatically when you're at sufficient speed and appropriate throttle and disengage automatically as needed, without the light doing anything.

 

I have a 240 1990 just removed overdrive solenoid wondering how to conect wiring goes over tranie do I need to drop tranie support to conect?

 

seems electrical. check the od relay first. easy. you can rig it yourself (see other posts on how to do this) or get a new one (~$50). most likely the problem. location of od relay is again found on the net (at least for my 1992). mechanical problems are not likely to be intermittent. The whole solenoid replacement thing would be next, but again, thats not recommended until you check the OD relay.

 

It's also a notorious place for small debris to collect in. Invest in a used tooth brush or small metal one and clean the area really well.

You certainly wouldn't want anything dropping INTO the hole when you remove said solenoid and getting into your trans.

 

Hi pierce thanks for your reply,I should have mentioned my car is a 4 speed manual with overdrive, if your afvice

 

Hi pierce thanks for your reply,I should have mentioned my car is a 4 speed manual with overdrive, if your advice still stands sounds like problem may be inside transmission, I do know my clutch slave cylinder is worn and leaking, I wonder if that may be related, also maybe if it's worthwhile locating and replacing the od relay if there is one? Thanks for the advice anyhow and any further wisdom appreciated

 

ah, hmm. manual transmissions with overdriive have an external overdrive unit behind the transmission. last car I owned with one of those was a TR-6, hahaah. I believe its nearly the same J OD unit. anyways, it didn't have a shift light, and really don't know the behavior of a Volvo with a 4+OD manual transmission.