Hello, i have a 1990 Volvo 740GL that died on the highway. It just quit running. The car has a new timing belt installed a year a go. It has a new fuel pump relay. A new crank sensor, a new fuel pressure regulator. It has spark & you can here the fuel pump kick on every time. The timing has just been checked also & it's fine. After it died on the road & was towed back it started & ran for a minute or two then died. If it sits overnight it will fire for a second & then that's it. After that it won't fire at all. The mechanic couldn't figure it out so i ran codes & got a 122 code which says it's a faulty air temperature sensor so i was desperate & ordered one online. I just don't think that a faulty air temp sensor is going to make it not start at all. It's 80 degrees her in MN & it won't fire unless i shoot starting fluid in the throttle body. Could a faulty air temp sensor make it not start at all? It gives me the 122 code which says it's faulty. Before i forget, i have the Regina system. Anybody please help! I need an answer now...

 

48 views & no reply...guess i will have to try to find my answer elsewhere..

 

I'm not all familiar with the 740s as all I have owned is 240s. All I know about the 740s is what I have read here in the forums.

The one thing I didn't see on your list of replaced items is the radio suppression relay. It is my understanding that this relay runs the fuel injection system. It is located near the windshield washer reservoir. There are two identical relays there - try swapping the two. If that works, you have found your culprit. I would replace them both if this is the issue (keep the old good one for a spare).

Good luck

 

Be patient. When forum members have valid information to provide they will. Otherwise you're going to get a bunch of guesses that might send you in the wrong direction.

I never owned a 7 series so all I can make is an educated guess. Even though you hear the fuel pump working fuel may not be getting delivered to the injectors. Because you said it fires when starting fluid is introduced into the throttle body it sounds like a fuel delivery problem.

 

when you squirt that fluid in, it not only turns over but starts and continues to run?

 

You are right unfortunately. Bad Temp Sensor would make for HARD STARTS, definitely would not make it cut out and stop running the way you describe it. I personally don't put a lot of faith in the CODES an OBDI system throws.

You squirting exercise points to a fuel delivery issue, your pump may be bad, filter should be checked. The relay as well I'd look at again. But I'd concentrate on the pump--even though you feel it's "clicking ON", it may be sputtering off and on as electric motors do when they are dying...

 

one way to test the fuel pump... disconnect the main fuel line that goes to the fuel rail, connect the line to some fuel safe clear hose, run this into a large clean empty gas container, then jumper the relay [1] for a few seconds, and you should get a fair amount of gas going into that can in a steady stream. I would only do this with an assistant outside holding the hose and watching the gas and telling you to CUT!


[1] WITH THE IGNITION OFF(!!!)... either pull the relay and jumper pin 30 to 87/2 (IMMEDIATE FUEL PUMP ACTUATION!), or pull fuses 1 and 11, and jumper the TOP of 1 to BOTH SIDES of 11 (top of fuse 11 powers the main pump, bottom of 11 powers the tank pump (you could take a spare fuse and bust a hole in the top of it so you could probe the fuse to connect to both sides).

this jumpering activity likely will draw small sparks. BE SURE YOU DONT HAVE GAS FUMES IN THE CABIN WHEN YOU DO THIS!!!

 

Thanks everyone for your help! I appreciate it! I think i'm just going to scrap it. It has no rust & a ton of new parts including a whole new front end. What is the most i can get for scrapping it? I don't want to get ripped off...

Thanks Guys...

 

If you're going to scrap it, would you please pull some parts off of it for me? What is the interior color?

 

the best $$ scenario for scrapping is to sell individual pieces, which can take months to get rid of most of the car, til what is left is a hulk. the wreckers typically won't give you more than a few $100 for the whole thing, and will MAYBE take it to a pik-n-pull, otherwise crush it for scrap steel value. the odds of someone buying a whole car for parts is pretty slim

 

So did you try a new air temp sensor?

 

Thanks guys! Just scrapped it for $300.

 

sigh.

 

Another one bites the dust.

 

i replaced both my radio sup relay and the fuel pressure regulator and it fixed mine doing the same on my 88

 

i know this is old but i need help with my 88 no fire

 

88 what? 240 or 740? does 'no fire' mean its not getting any spark? or isi t not getting any fuel? if it has spark, then does it cough if you spray starter fluid into the throttle and crank it ?

 

i have a 1987 volvo 740 turbo when i got it it vranked drove for a while i replaced a sensor it ran good but still felt like it was not 100% so i replaced fuel pump(s) Coil plugs wires turbo relays fuses distributor timing seemed off so replaced timing belt now no spark at all please help tia joe

 

wild guess says you got the crankshaft way out of phase relative to the camshaft when you replaced the timing belt.

you replaced all those parts based on the 'feeling' that it was not '100%' ? did you do any diagnostics that showed the parts you replaced were in fact defective ?

 

The pickup in the distributor is often the main culprit for it just shutting off. A worn rotor button and distributor cap can cause it too. If you order a new distributor make sure its shaft turns freely. We received a new distributor that felt stiffer than the old one and it caused the car to shut off intermittently.