Steering Rack Replacement

  #1  
Old 10-24-2016, 02:49 PM
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Default Steering Rack Replacement

I'm looking for any information on removal and replacement of my steering rack.

I have a '91 240, pretty sure it's a CAM rack since I don't have the plastic grommet where the bellows ties onto the tie rod.

Are there any tutorials out there that will help me out?

Thanks.

MJ
 
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:20 AM
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It isn't too difficult to figure it out. Basically there are two u-shaped bolts that attach the rack to the front cross member of the car. Then there are the two outer tie rod ends to remove. Two power steering hoses to remove from the top of the rack. And finally, the steering column u-joint. Removing the steering u-joint and the tie rod ends are the most difficult part. For the u-joint, I removed the locking bolt and then used a small wedge to open up the clamp a bit tapping the hammer. This removed the u-joint from the steering column. Once the rack was out of the car I removed it from the shaft of the rack.

The tie rod ends can be removed using a pickle fork but it damages them. If you're replacing the rack it might be good to replace the outer tie rod ends as well (they don't come with a rebuilt rack).
 
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Old 10-26-2016, 11:49 AM
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I figured it was pretty simple from past info I've seen, I just like to see pictures or videos if possible.

So, you think it's easier to remove the u-joint with the rack instead of leaving it on the column?

I will probably keep the tie rod ends attached to the steering knuckle and screw out the tie rods since I just recently replaced both on each side, or if I get a rack without tie rods, just screw them out at the rack.

As I said above, I'm pretty sure I've got the CAM rack.

I'm also looking for a little more information on flushing the system before I put the new rack in. Are there any resources that you can lead me to? I guess someday, I should get a manual, hah!

Thanks in advance.

MJ
 
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:01 AM
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The reason I left the u-joint on the rack is that it is a bit tight down there when the rack is installed in the car. I found that I had more room to tap it with a mallet from above.

Unscrewing the tie rod ends will work fine. When I replaced my rack, I had no procedure to go by - I just kinda figured it out.

Regarding flushing the system - I never have seen a procedure specifically for the Volvo. I flushed my Honda 10-15 years ago and I think the procedure was to drain the system, start the car, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to flush out the remaining fluid. It's pretty standard for most cars so you should be able to find a video for it.
 
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:30 PM
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I use my oil sucker to flush power steering, but you could use a turkey baster or something too... suck the reservoir empty, refill it with fresh juice (ATF), then start the engine, run the steering stop to stop to stop a couple times, suck empty, refill again, repeat til what you suck out is completely clean
 
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Old 10-28-2016, 10:05 PM
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Thank you, both! I appreciate the input.

MJ
 
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:49 PM
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OK, here's my third try at this comment. If I'm being redundant with my posts, I apologize.

I started my rack replacement today and I'm stuck trying to get the U-joint disconnected from the input shaft. I've got everything loose and it just won't let go of the input shaft. Do I bang harder, heat it up and bang harder, etc?
 
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Old 12-27-2016, 07:24 AM
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Heat may help but what helps the most is to use a screwdriver or wedge in the split part of the u-joint to spread it apart.

Is the rack in the car or did you remove the u-joint from the steering column? Like I said in my earlier post I had used a screwdriver in the upper part of the u-joint to remove it from the steering wheel shaft first. Basically I put the screwdriver in the upper-half of the u-joint and used a hammer to pound it off. I then tapped the screwdriver with a hammer. The tapping spread the u-joint further and pushed the u-joint off the steering column shaft.

Once removed, I had more room to maneuver to remove the lower u-joint from the rack.
 

Last edited by act1292; 12-27-2016 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:51 AM
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Yeah, I tried to spread the lower half of the U-joint and didn't have much luck, probably because the rack was already detached from the chassis and wasn't giving enough resistance to my hammering. So I re-attached the rack at the end of the day and said I'll get back to it tomorrow. So, it's tomorrow, and raining. When I get back to it, I will try from the upper side of of the U-joint.

Thanks for the input.

MJ
 
  #10  
Old 12-28-2016, 01:24 PM
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Okay, got it all put back together. Was a bit of a PITA putting the coupling back on the steering shaft and getting the U-bolts and the crush washer in place but finally got it all aligned and tightened up. Are there any torque values in the site on the U-bolts, steering coupling, power steering lines and tie rod nuts, or is "really tight within reason" good enough?
 
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:06 PM
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Any pictures?Mine is leaking and would be nice to replace it...
 
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:24 AM
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No, but I would be glad to explain anything to you.
 
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:05 AM
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I didn't know the torque values so I tightened them good and tight. Don't want to twist the bolt off or anything like that. It is a clamp so it just needs to do its job clamping.
 
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Old 12-30-2016, 08:06 AM
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Yeah, I've twisted off many a bolt/nut in my day. I try to remember how hard it was to loosen a particular fastener and come close to that when I'm re-assembling (unless they're a rusted mess;^)!
 
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