Go Back   Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum > Volvo Vehicles > Volvo 240, 740 & 940
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search

Welcome to Volvo Forums!
Welcome to Volvo Forums,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Volvo Forums today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-18-2011, 07:23 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Default Tips for replacing the Coolant Temp Sensor

I need to replace the coolant temp sensor, but realized the sensor is under the intake manifold. Are there any tips on an easy way to reach it without having to remove the intake manifold?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-18-2011, 08:39 PM
swiftjustice44's Avatar
Super Moderator
1973 Volvo 142
My Garage
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2,815
Default

It is possible to remove and exchange the sensor w/o pulling the intake. Small hands and an inspection mirror a definite plus. I've tried it both ways and honestly, it is faster and less frustrating by far...to just pull the intake. You will need a new intake gasket before you reassemble which in and of itself often cures a few minor headaches.

Leaving the intake in place means you'll be fumbling around the flame trap hoses as well as the injector plug wires and grounds. As I recall, I can pull the intake without removing the fuel rail...just disconnect the ground wire from the two main rail bolts. After removing the intake nuts, the entire manifold w/ throttle spool and throttle body still attached, can be gently lifted back towards the driver's corner of the firewall.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-18-2011, 09:28 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Default

Thanks for info. Removing the intake manifold with the fuel rail on sounds like a much simpler task than completely dissembling all of it.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-19-2011, 09:57 AM
swiftjustice44's Avatar
Super Moderator
1973 Volvo 142
My Garage
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2,815
Default

Well, pulling the fuel rail isn't really that big of a deal...the only real issue is you may be disturbing old seals that will leak upon the reinstallation. Probably the easiest fuel rail removal in the world. Still, why disturb anything you don't have to. The real PITA is if you remove the throttle spool assembly and unhook the cable(s). As I said though, all that can be left alone.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-19-2011, 09:13 PM
zloetakoe's Avatar
Senior Member
1988 Volvo 245
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 364
Default

I replaced it with the manifold in place. Bad idea jeans.

My hands/wrists when I got done looked like I had done a bad job of committing suicide. Will definitely be pulling the manifold if I do it again.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-19-2011, 09:58 PM
swiftjustice44's Avatar
Super Moderator
1973 Volvo 142
My Garage
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2,815
Default

LOL! Did you notice my mentioning "small hands" in post #2? It's impossible to swap it out w/ intake in place w/o some bloodshed!!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-20-2011, 01:56 PM
Member
2006 Volvo XC70
My Garage
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 37
Default

I've been going through the exact same thing! Couple of notes:

1. Be sure you get the right sensor. I ordered one from AutoZone and it was blue instead of black. I didn't think anything of it until I found out that black can replace blue, but blue can't replace black. There is a difference!

2. Due to the above, I've had the sensor in and out about 3 times in as many days. Definitely easier removing the manifold. You can leave the fuel rail on, but I also found that disconnecting both fuel lines at the rail helped considerably. You can fish the flame trap tubes through the fuel rail and clear the intake manifold away.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-20-2011, 07:15 PM
Titan Joe's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Utah (for now)
Posts: 748
Default

I did it with the intake in place in about five minutes. I didn't even need to top off the coolant. You'll need a 3/4" 12 point deep socket if I remember correctly. Also an extension of perfect size helps. If you are missing one of those (especially small hands), then removing the intake is a good choice. However that's when my car started hunting at idle, and no one can figure it out. I would recommend a new gasket and torque to 13-ish lbs on a torque wrench for the 13mm nuts on the manifold.
__________________

1989 740 Turbo - Parents bought new - 238K miles - Original clutch - 3rd turbo - Red leather interior
Turbo plus system - Aluminum hood - 1" sway bars - Oil pressure gauge - 3" turbo back exhaust with a magnaflow (no cat) all stainless - quad HID projector headlights

2nd car: 2004 S60R project car bought stone dead
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-20-2011, 09:55 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 23
Default

Perfect timing for this thread. My temp gauge is not moving at all so I'm thinking I will need to replace the sensor. The inlet and outlet hoses are hot so I'm pretty sure the thermostat is working. Would this sensor being out give me a check engine light, in other words, besides giving a signal to the gauge, does it also feed something to the ECU?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-20-2011, 10:07 PM
swiftjustice44's Avatar
Super Moderator
1973 Volvo 142
My Garage
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2,815
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pcarnut View Post
Perfect timing for this thread. My temp gauge is not moving at all so I'm thinking I will need to replace the sensor. The inlet and outlet hoses are hot so I'm pretty sure the thermostat is working. Would this sensor being out give me a check engine light, in other words, besides giving a signal to the gauge, does it also feed something to the ECU?
No. Volvo used 2 different senders; one for the gauge located under the intake by cylinder 2 and another, referred to as the ecs, located by cylinder 3. The gauge sender is further forward and easier to access than the ecs. The gauge sender being out in no way affects fuel mixture; it merely drives the gauge. It's possible the connector is merely loose.
Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 10:07 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Tags
240, 94, 940, coolant, coolanttemperature, install, location, locatoin, radiator, replace, replacement, sensor, temp, temperature, volvo


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Advertising
Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:00 AM.
© Internet Brands, Inc.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
Secure Backup