Help!! My poor 1994 Volvo 940's (automatic non-turbo) transmission (350K)suddenly started slipping the other day. Made it home and discovered low fluid so I replaced the transmission fluid using upper radiator connection method, and transmission ran great for another 100 miles whennnn......

tranny suddenly started slipping again and even started lurching a few times. Drove 30 miles home with smoke trailing behind and barely made it home. Started up in driveway and noticed tranny fluid leaking considerably from near oil pan area which undoubtedly was causing the smoke from the hot cad converter.

Anyway, after searching internet to best of my ability, I can find NOTHING similiar and no threads here on volvoforum to help me.

This car owes me nothing, but I love it and would like to keep it going. Thinking it may just be a seal of some sort that I can replace myself???

Any kind soles out there that can offer me advice???

 

normally, you add ATF via the dipstick tube, using a transmission funnel. the upper radiator thing is for flushing it (unless thats what you meant to say you did).

I'd probably clean off the undersides, transmission, engine, etc, with gunk engine cleaner, hose it off good, then top off the ATF, and drive it a bit and see if you can detect exactly where its leaking. prime leakage candidates include the ATF coolant hoses, the output shaft seal, and the pan seal.

 

At 350K most likely the trans is done. Check the oil (if there is any left in the trans) to see if it smells burnt. If it smells burnt then most likely the clutches are toast.

 

Thanks guys. Here's an update: took Peirces advice and topped off the ATF. (I did use dipstick tube to fill when I had previously done a complete flush using the upper coolant line) Drove around the block. Some shudder but almost no slipping. Put her up on ramps and took a peak. Seems to be leaking at the lower coolant line fitting to the transmission with car running. Tried tightening with 15mm wrench, and it started dripping worse right at the fitting even with engine off. I'm guessing a rusty compression fitting??? Only question now is how bad I fried the tranny when I drove it the 20 or so miles home with tranny slipping and shuddering? ATF smells a little funky I guess, but I just did a complete flush a week ago when it first started slipping. Replace entire line or maybe a way to splice off an inch or so at the fitting? Guess I need to drain ATF at the pan and look for metal shavings? Thanks again!

 

Probably got damaged when you drove the car with low fluid, so you won't see "metal shavings", why would you? The damage would be to the clutches.

 

Remove the line and see where the damage is. The fitting, or the pipe? You may have to look very carefully. If the pipe is bad, get a whole new one.

 

After you do repair the damage, I suggest including a quart of this after your flush:

Transmission Fix

This product does work; and it works long- term. Flush and fill the trans, then pump out one quart from the return line. Shut off the car, re- attach the line then add this product.
*this needs to be added when the transmission fluid is hot and while the car is running.

 

Just added that "Lucas" product to my trans. Seems to have helped my hard-shifting 2nd.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm definitely gonna try the Lucas Oil product. I did add some Valvoline Max Life tranny stop leak the first time I flushed the system. Obviously didn't work. Anyway, looked closer tonight and it's the upper coolent line at the radiator which is actually the lower fitting on the transmission housing. It's seeping and dripping right from the fitting on the housing (dripped about a quart last night) and is worse with Engine running. I ran out of daylight after work, but will try and include a pic with next post. I own a flaring tool, so hoping its a flared fitting and I can sacrifice an inch or so and still get a tight fit if that's indeed where the leak is once I pull the line. Wish me luck!

 

gearbox cooling fittings... the right angle fittings are 1239669 ([12] onthis pic, $20 at a dealer.... oops, unobtanium) and use o-ring 1233071 (not shown, between [12] and the tranny, $1.69 at a dealer). the pipes are 3547995 ([5], rear tranny fitting to top radiator fitting, $40 at a dealer) and 3547996 ([6] front tranny fitting to lower radiator fitting, $95 at a dealer).

my dealer prices are based on OEM Volvo Parts at Volvo Parts Webstore and probably have a 25% discount from full retail.

 

I had the same leak before at the tranny. I recall at LEAST the fitting was mushroomed and took a new one to fix the leak. I may have had to change out the pipe too. Since fittings are the cheapest and easiest to swap, I would start there. Only after taking a GOOOD look at the flare on the pipe too for signs of deformation.

I think I also recall indexing the fitting so that it tightened down and sealed and was still at an acceptable forward angle was also a small task.

 

according to OEM Volvo Parts at Volvo Parts Webstore those right angle fittings at the tranny end are no longer available (thank you, FoMoCo), so you'll need to adapt a generic part to this.

 

Well, finally got the coolant line off after a bit of struggle with clamp which is still fused to lower coolant line. Turns out it snapped abut a half inch from the flared end at the transmission. Very strange since overall the line is in good condition and not too rusty. Vibration or perhaps a good water collection poiint I guess. Not sure I can re-flare it using my long neglected flaring tool since there is a bend very close to the end. I'll play with tonight while watching TV.
Anyway, I am happy I discovered the culprit, but fear the damage done already driving it home. Besides the Lucas Oil stop leak, any other suggestions to breathe some life back into the tranny? Don't know how, but should I drain the pan, remove it, and clean the filter? Thanks again for all of your posts. Pierce, UR a Volvo Guru![ATTACH][/ATTACH]

 

 

Those lines can be reliably joined with a compression fitting if you can get the angles right. Not a ton of pressure there. Obviously you would have to make a cut further down the pipe and flare the end. I would not drop your pan unless you have to; sometimes it creates more problems than it solves. I would just flush it, add the lucas product and call it a day.

Edit: If you can't flare the end proper and can't find a pipe at a junkyard, you could just section out the pipe further up and connect the pieces with fuel hose and clamps. I had to do that on one of mine once for a couple months until one came up at a junkyard. Just keep the hose part away from the exhaust. I wouldn't invest in a new pipe until you see if the transmission is o.k.

 

Final result: good, but not perfect. Was able to get enough of a flare by hand to reattach coolant line, though clamp no longer fits. Drained 3-1/2 quarts from pan (transmission drain plug was stripped when I removed it, so replaced with a #10 x 1.25 bolt as auto parts stores were less than helpful). Refilled pan and flushed another 4 quarts from coolant line. Drove around block. Added Lucas Oil while draining off another quart. Drove 20 miles and the bottom line: still shudders pretty good with hard acceleration taking off from a stop sign, but all other gears seem fine, no slipping at all, highway acceleration fine. Completely drivable, but pulling out into traffic with any sense of urgency no longer a possibility. I'm hoping that this may get better with time and more Lucas Oil? Until such time I will have to baby her when pulling away. Thanks againg for everyone's help. I truly thought she was all done, except for one last trip to the boneyard, otherwise I wouldn't have driven her home with the transmission slipping.