89 245 DL, 220k miles- she has developed what sounds like vlave noise. Usually notice it at startup, usually goes away once warmed up. Like a faint clattery-clattery sound. (easy to diagnose over the internet, eh?) What does "sticking valve" mean anyway, and what might I do? Any way to free up a "sticking valve", or does that mean a head rebuild. Seems to run fine, I'm just worried about this being something serious. Thanks! Dave

 

Hey, internet diagnosis is fool proof! Didn't you know? LOL. B230's were originally equipped with valve hushers, hard rubber caps that fit over the end of the valve stems. In time they disintegrate and the valves make a little bit of noise. If that's all that's happened, it's no big deal. To free up sticky valves, there are any number of additives sold purporting to do that. My all time favorite is using transmission fluid poured down the carburetor. On an FI motor, I pull the big vac hose off the brake booster and let the hose "sip" tranny fluid. This is not a professional fix, and is something I only do on my own cars...and I've only had to do it once or twice on an FI car. It's possible your cam has wear as well as the cam shims underneath. You could pull the valve cover and measure clearances. Iirc, cold it should be .014 to .016. Pretty simple to do and may give you a little peace of mind.

 

Swift- I think we messeged about those Virgo rims last week. Pie in the Sky really, never seem to have an extra 200 bucks (plus the cost for a new set of tires!) But I will keep my eyes open.

might pull the valve cover give a look, never checked valve clearances on this engine. I did discover my #1 spark plug was loose last night! I still hear a little valve noise though. How tough is it to change those little rubber caps?

She runs very good for 21yrs and 220k miles, but I'd like to hush these valves a bit. Dave

 

Well, if you don't have the proper tools, it can be a pita. Few people take the effort solely to swap in hushers...and lots of people purposefully leave them out when doing head work. They are a nicety more than anything. I would suspect that your cam lobes and shims have a bit of wear and the lash is off. Shimming will fix it unless the cam is shot.

 

Swift- Hmmm, I was sort of hoping for a pour in repair. Whats involved in "shimming"? I dont really mind the valve noise- barely noticable really, just dont want to do any permanant damage. D

 

Well, if ya have to ask...ya probably don't want to tackle it! If it's that minimal, maybe just add a can of STP at the next change.

 

If you have ever adjusted the valves on just about anything it should not be that big of a deal for you.

IPD Volvo sells a shim removal tool and most manual's that I have looked at give detailed instructions on how to measure and adjust the valve clearence.

Basically you remove the remove the spark plugs and valve cover. Find TDC on #1. If one of the valves need to be adjusted you take the tool which pushes down on the side of the shim bucket and depresses the valve enough to take a pick to pop the shim out of the bucket and pick it up with a magnetic tool. Turn the engine 180 degree's and adjust the #3 valves. Turn the engine 180 degrees and do the #4 valve then again turn the motor 180 degree's and adjust the #2 valves.

I have not done it yet but the guys car who I am working on has ordered the tool from iPd along with "renting" a box with the shims.

You pay 250.00 for the shim box and when you return it they give you back 210.00 making it cost 40.00 dollars. The tool itself is 37.94 dollars. See below link.

http://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?st...hStartRecord=1

You might want to check the valves before spending the money on the tool or renting the shim box. You can also buy individal shims from a Volvo dealership.

I don't see how but in the description they state that you will be charged if more than 8 shims are missing. So it sounds like you can keep 8 of the shims. If you are smart about what shims you keep it should get you through another adjustment without having to get the box for iPd again.

My experience with motorcycles that have the bucket and shim setup is that it really does not get much easier to adjust the valves.

 

Well, the IPD setup is swell for folks who can have $250 tied up for a couple of weeks. Yup, they allow you to use up to 8 shims...which never happens. If you measure your clearances prior to digging into it and write them down and, knowing your clearances should be .014 to .016, you can do the math to see what size shim you need. Typically, you can swap shims around and you only need 2-3 new ones. And, I've had motors that needed none..just flipped 2. You really don't need the tool at all. I measure my clearances, pull the cam, swap shims and re-install the cam. If you are replacing the valve hushers, then you will need to pull the cam, install hushers, replace cam, measure and pull cam to replace shims most likely as they affect the clearances.

 

Someone told me that my 89 240 might have hydrolic lifters- thereby having no adjustment. That doesnt sound right according to everything I've read.

 

if swift is telling you about the shims then rest assured that your do not have hydrolic lifters, he would know hense all the info one it he just gave you.

 

iPd's shim box rental is just one option. You can buy the shims from your local Volvo dealer.

It would seem removing the camshaft would adjust the valves would seem kinda of drastic measures for such an easy task.

Yes you would benifit from being able to replace valve hushers. But it does take a very easy DIY project and open up a whole new can of worms.

Personally I would just pony up the little ole 37.50 and buy the tool. Volvo recommend's adjusting the valves every 24,000 miles.

The other option would be to have a shop or the Volvo dealer check and adjust the valves. Bet that will run a the cost of the tool and shim rental plus.

But what fun would that be ???

Unless of course they have a shim "under" bucket setup. If you plan on keeping the car and doing work on the car then having one of the valve adjustment tools should be on your list of things to have for it.

As I have stated. It is a very simple. Very easy for anybody who has ever adjusted the valves on anything.

And as a matter of fact would probably be the one of the best vehicles to make it your first valve adjustment.

 

Swift / hookem- If I got that tool, would I need to pull the cam in order to replace the hushers? And would I need to remove the timing belt / pulley to get the cam out? Does a blown husher change the valve clearance? Is valve clearance the same as lash? I'm starting to get the courage to do this...Dave

 

Clearance and lash are the same. Yes, hushers go on top of the valve stem, effectively making them taller and changing clearances. The cam gear and belt must be loosened but if you mark stuff, it isn't a big deal. Volvo recommended checking the clearances at 35k, not 25k the last I checked. The beauty is in reality, as long as oiling is up to par, clearances seldom change except as a factor of unusual wear.
What I'd recommend is just get a feeler gauge, pull the valve cover and check the existing clearances. You can also do a visual check of the cam lobes while you're there.

 

Swift- So I guess the husher sits like a "hat" on the tip of the valve stem, and clearance is measured between the top of the shim and the flat of the cam lobe. (The husher touches the bottom of the shim and the shim rides on the lobe of the cam). So to change the hushers, I need to remove the cam and shims. Do you need to compress each valve to remove / replace hushers?

If I go for the husher project, would you suggest (marking and) pulling the cam, (marking and) pulling the shims, replacing the hushers, putting it all back together and then checking valve clearances? Guess a clearance check first would be smartest.

Thanks for walking me through this. D

 

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