What is the BEST motor oil?
#3
#5
Simple answer: Royal Purple synthetic. I had been running Mobil 1 synthetic in my Honda and decided to try the Royal Purple after a long talk with their rep at the auto show. My mileage immediately increased 1-2 mpg with no other changes to anything; same timing, same spark plugs, same everything. And..it's made right here in Texas.
The downside? It's expensive, about 8 or nine bucks a quart. I only use it in cars that don't leak or otherwise use oil. I also use their tranny fluid in all my cars - about 13 bucks a quart, but well worth it.
Generally speaking, synthetics are better than dino oil, no matter the brand, but I'm sold on the Royal Purple.
As to viscosity, Volvo recommends 10w30 or 15w40 (severe service).
The downside? It's expensive, about 8 or nine bucks a quart. I only use it in cars that don't leak or otherwise use oil. I also use their tranny fluid in all my cars - about 13 bucks a quart, but well worth it.
Generally speaking, synthetics are better than dino oil, no matter the brand, but I'm sold on the Royal Purple.
As to viscosity, Volvo recommends 10w30 or 15w40 (severe service).
Last edited by Joseph/TX; 10-30-2011 at 01:48 AM.
#6
Simple answer: Royal Purple synthetic. I had been running Mobil 1 synthetic in my Honda and decided to try the Royal Purple after a long talk with their rep at the auto show. My mileage immediately increased 1-2 mpg with no other changes to anything; same timing, same spark plugs, same everything. And..it's made right here in Texas.
The downside? It's expensive, about 8 or nine bucks a quart. I only use it in cars that don't leak or otherwise use oil. I also use their tranny fluid in all my cars - about 13 bucks a quart, but well worth it.
Generally speaking, synthetics are better than dino oil, no matter the brand, but I'm sold on the Royal Purple.
As to viscosity, Volvo recommends 10w30 or 15w40 (severe service).
The downside? It's expensive, about 8 or nine bucks a quart. I only use it in cars that don't leak or otherwise use oil. I also use their tranny fluid in all my cars - about 13 bucks a quart, but well worth it.
Generally speaking, synthetics are better than dino oil, no matter the brand, but I'm sold on the Royal Purple.
As to viscosity, Volvo recommends 10w30 or 15w40 (severe service).
#8
Use a good quality filter, and whatever oil is on sale. Change your oil regularly. You'll be just fine.
#10
Simple answer: Royal Purple synthetic. I had been running Mobil 1 synthetic in my Honda and decided to try the Royal Purple after a long talk with their rep at the auto show. My mileage immediately increased 1-2 mpg with no other changes to anything; same timing, same spark plugs, same everything. And..it's made right here in Texas.
Every now and then I hear claims like this, but I'm always a little skeptical. Couple months ago a counter guy in Advance Auto claimed that he immediately picked up 15hp in his "built" GTO, just by putting RP Synthetic in it. I wasn't going to argue with him about it, but if that was true EVERY single race car in the world would be running nothing but RP Synthetic.
Don't get me wrong, I like RP - and I like the fact that I can generally get it for about $9 per quart at O'Reilly's, which is not much different than other synthetics. But I guess I'm just a skeptic.
#11
Generally speaking, hammering down the highway all day at 80 mph counts as "severe service" , but so does heavy stop n go traffic. Basically, anything that would tend to make your engine run hotter would be reason for the heavier oil.
#12
[quote=DrHicks;294397]Please don't think I'm being disrespectful, but...
Every now and then I hear claims like this, but I'm always a little skeptical. Couple months ago a counter guy in Advance Auto claimed that he immediately picked up 15hp in his "built" GTO, just by putting RP Synthetic in it. I wasn't going to argue with him about it, but if that was true EVERY single race car in the world would be running nothing but RP Synthetic. quote]
I was skeptical too; that's why I spent the better part of an hour letting the RP guy try to convince me that his stuff was better than Mobil 1, which I had been happily using for years. In the end, all he did was convince me to try it, which I did, with the above-mentioned results. If I used all the products that claim 5-10 HP increase (and they actually delivered) I could be driving a 300 HP 240 instead of one with the 114 somewhat lazy horses I have working for me now..
Every now and then I hear claims like this, but I'm always a little skeptical. Couple months ago a counter guy in Advance Auto claimed that he immediately picked up 15hp in his "built" GTO, just by putting RP Synthetic in it. I wasn't going to argue with him about it, but if that was true EVERY single race car in the world would be running nothing but RP Synthetic. quote]
I was skeptical too; that's why I spent the better part of an hour letting the RP guy try to convince me that his stuff was better than Mobil 1, which I had been happily using for years. In the end, all he did was convince me to try it, which I did, with the above-mentioned results. If I used all the products that claim 5-10 HP increase (and they actually delivered) I could be driving a 300 HP 240 instead of one with the 114 somewhat lazy horses I have working for me now..
#13
[quote=Joseph/TX;294528]
Hahaha - yep!
Hey, I appreciate your response. Like I said, I have absolutely nothing against RP oils. I put RP Synthetic in my motorcycle this year (1500 Vulcan). Can't say that I noticed any difference in performance or mileage, but good oil is good oil, so it doesn't necessarily matter.
I run synthetic oil in my cars (the ones that don't use oil), during the winter, so I'll probably use RP in my 240 this year. Again, I like the fact that O'Reillys has it for $8.99 per quart, which is roughly the same as their price on other synthetics.
Thanks again.
Please don't think I'm being disrespectful, but...
Every now and then I hear claims like this, but I'm always a little skeptical. Couple months ago a counter guy in Advance Auto claimed that he immediately picked up 15hp in his "built" GTO, just by putting RP Synthetic in it. I wasn't going to argue with him about it, but if that was true EVERY single race car in the world would be running nothing but RP Synthetic. quote]
I was skeptical too; that's why I spent the better part of an hour letting the RP guy try to convince me that his stuff was better than Mobil 1, which I had been happily using for years. In the end, all he did was convince me to try it, which I did, with the above-mentioned results. If I used all the products that claim 5-10 HP increase (and they actually delivered) I could be driving a 300 HP 240 instead of one with the 114 somewhat lazy horses I have working for me now..
Every now and then I hear claims like this, but I'm always a little skeptical. Couple months ago a counter guy in Advance Auto claimed that he immediately picked up 15hp in his "built" GTO, just by putting RP Synthetic in it. I wasn't going to argue with him about it, but if that was true EVERY single race car in the world would be running nothing but RP Synthetic. quote]
I was skeptical too; that's why I spent the better part of an hour letting the RP guy try to convince me that his stuff was better than Mobil 1, which I had been happily using for years. In the end, all he did was convince me to try it, which I did, with the above-mentioned results. If I used all the products that claim 5-10 HP increase (and they actually delivered) I could be driving a 300 HP 240 instead of one with the 114 somewhat lazy horses I have working for me now..
Hey, I appreciate your response. Like I said, I have absolutely nothing against RP oils. I put RP Synthetic in my motorcycle this year (1500 Vulcan). Can't say that I noticed any difference in performance or mileage, but good oil is good oil, so it doesn't necessarily matter.
I run synthetic oil in my cars (the ones that don't use oil), during the winter, so I'll probably use RP in my 240 this year. Again, I like the fact that O'Reillys has it for $8.99 per quart, which is roughly the same as their price on other synthetics.
Thanks again.
#14
I use Castrol full synthetic and Mann filters. My oil usually cost me $5.33 per quart $32. I'm getting about 25 mpg so I spend $700 in gas between oil changes. If I pony'd up for RP, I would pay $58 for oil. If I gained 1 mpg because if it, I would spend $673 between oil changes. That's a $27 difference in gas, and $26 difference in oil cost, so I would gain $1 in out of pocket cost.
Now, I know RP claims other advantages. My brother who is a motor head and engineer advised me to us RP which I have not convinced myself that I could afford. So, if there is a gain in the life of my motor (which is the reason I use synthetic in the first place) and maybe a little more HP, it would be worth it I guess. Now if my gas mpg went up 2 mpg, I would save more money.
I always suggest that people test things for themselves. Like Lev said, that B230 is bullet proof. I never used synthetic when I had that motor in my 740. Regular oil changes should be all you need. I used Castrol 10w-40 when I had it. I put over 400k on the car and only had a tranny leak once. The lady I gave the car to started delivering papers with it and I think I heard that the tranny went shortly after that.
You didn't mention what kind of mileage you had on it or the service history. That is an old car so I would NOT suggest switching to synthetic unless you have it checked out good to make sure it has NO leaks or weak seals. A few months after I switched to synthetic in our S70 the cam seals blew. They were after market seals but they didn't last long. If the car is NOT using oil (more than a quart per 2,000 miles) it may be ok to start using synthetic. A compression test may not be a bad idea.
I will say that most people are surprised at the mpg I get with my T-5R wagon. I believe it's a combination of things including synthetic oil. Most people get 18 to 21 mpg while I get 25 consistantly. I also trained myself how to drive better with my ScanGauge.
I would consider pizza delivery "severe use" and change oil more often (no less than every 3,000 miles), use good filters and service the tranny every 50,000 miles. How many miles does the car have now?
Now, I know RP claims other advantages. My brother who is a motor head and engineer advised me to us RP which I have not convinced myself that I could afford. So, if there is a gain in the life of my motor (which is the reason I use synthetic in the first place) and maybe a little more HP, it would be worth it I guess. Now if my gas mpg went up 2 mpg, I would save more money.
I always suggest that people test things for themselves. Like Lev said, that B230 is bullet proof. I never used synthetic when I had that motor in my 740. Regular oil changes should be all you need. I used Castrol 10w-40 when I had it. I put over 400k on the car and only had a tranny leak once. The lady I gave the car to started delivering papers with it and I think I heard that the tranny went shortly after that.
You didn't mention what kind of mileage you had on it or the service history. That is an old car so I would NOT suggest switching to synthetic unless you have it checked out good to make sure it has NO leaks or weak seals. A few months after I switched to synthetic in our S70 the cam seals blew. They were after market seals but they didn't last long. If the car is NOT using oil (more than a quart per 2,000 miles) it may be ok to start using synthetic. A compression test may not be a bad idea.
I will say that most people are surprised at the mpg I get with my T-5R wagon. I believe it's a combination of things including synthetic oil. Most people get 18 to 21 mpg while I get 25 consistantly. I also trained myself how to drive better with my ScanGauge.
I would consider pizza delivery "severe use" and change oil more often (no less than every 3,000 miles), use good filters and service the tranny every 50,000 miles. How many miles does the car have now?
Last edited by rspi; 11-02-2011 at 10:28 PM. Reason: correction
#16
I would use any reputable mineral oil in NA cars and change it every 4-5,000 miles, and any reputable full synthetic in Turbos which I change every 6-7,000 miles, always with a good filter (MANN). I would pay equal if not more attention to ATF changes, coolant, and brake fluid maintenance. Few (if any) Red Blocks bite the dust because of less than fanatical oil changes... In most cases the Volvos just seem to collapse all around them when their time comes, with the block's bottom end in good shape.
#18
#19
Oil filter and oil
If you are to put Amsoil Signature make sure you take a look at the color of your oil sometimes in your first 3 to 4 changes because it clean the engine.
If the filter is too expensive then Mobil One high mileage would definitely do it but the price difference the gap isn't that important, just try to avoid Fram.
Last edited by KevinJolin; 04-19-2023 at 07:29 AM.
#20
What brand oil?
On this car, I use whatever one either of the two LAPS has on sale. Dino oil, 10W-30. I use Mann filters almost exclusively. My other cars get synthetic, but not helpful in this one. Changes every 5000 mile; easy to keep track of it that way. I do usually have to add a quart between changes, partly because I never seem to have a complete fill after my oil changes.
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