So i was driving down the highway today, and all the sudden the car started sputtering. So i turned on my flashers and pulled over. During all this escapade everything was acting up. the radio was going on and off, the speedometer was fluctuating as i hit the gas pedal, (i.e- was going 50mph but it was jumping to 80-90mph as i pumped the gas. So after i had gotten pulled over and popped the hood, i tried to restart it, nothing happens. So i had a friend come bring me a jumper pack and voltometer. When we put the volt meter to the batter it read 9.50 to 10.60 which i know is way low, so we hooked up the jump pack and it jumped it to 12.50 or somewhere in that ballpark. tried to start the car and nothing happens. I am at the point of thinking its fuel related, but i could not jack the car up and check right on the side of a highway in pittsburgh...thats kinda rough. I am still getting spark. can anyone tell me what it maybe. I have read it may be the ignition switch. Being when i turn the key to on the only lights on are check engine service and oil lights. I am lost at this point.

 

how about the voltage regulator on the alternator? the black cap looking thing on the back of it. Spark but not fuel? fuel pump relay by the passenger foot rest wall? you can check to see if it the fuel pumps, inside or outside, by jumping the relay with a paper clip on the number six or four fuse box. If you hear the hizz then they are ok.

 

I forgot, the fuel pump has the wire connected to the positive battery terminal...if it is loose it will crank but will never ever start.

 

When you say nothing happens do you mean it's not even turning? If that's the case, don't even worry about the fuel (as I learned recently) as a safety feature apparently the fuel relay wont engage if no electricity is reaching the car.

IF IT'S TURNING: Before any of that do the simplest check of all for the most common problem, take off your oil cap, have someone turn the key. Do the cams turn? If not, 98% of the time, you blew a timing belt. It's not the worst thing either, but you can't do it on a philly hwy so pay for a tow.

IF IT'S NOT TURNING: What you want to do, given the fluctuation, check the hell out of your terminals and wires for fraying. The ignition circuit has a fuse, if your system went weird it might have blown it. It's a 25 amp blade type fuse on a red wire connected to the positive terminal (smaller wire though). If none of that you need an ohmeter and amp meter (you can buy all in one meters). Check the plugs, plug wires, dist. cap and rotor, tension wire to the coil, the primary and secondary resistance on the coil, the power from the ignition switch. If any of this is unknown to you, get a haynes manual, it walks you right through it all.

Good luck.

 

ok so, i got the car to roll over yesterday, i changed to fuses for the two fuel pumps and the 25 amp blade fuse. When i drove it to work yesterday, all the lights on the instrument panel were lit up. not as bright as they normally are but all dim. I go out this morning and the car is dead. i turn the key and nothing happens. i have lights all around but no cranking power. anyone have any ideas what this could be? i mean i am going to say alternator but idk

 

My uneducated guess is the alternator. It might not be shot, it might just be some bad wires, but the haywire fluctuations tell me you're gonna wanna work it out before you run it too much. If it's already blowing fuses, it might start blowing relays etc and maybe gum up the whole works and then you have to needle through the whole damn thing finding where it blew stuff.

But as far as I'm concerned car electrical is half guess work half black magic. I'm sure someone one here can help though.

**Edit** does it start when you jump it?

 

I wouldnt say it starts when i jump it. I have a one of those jump packs that throw 50 amps to the battery instantly for starting and it will roll over but not completely start. so i am all lost on what to do, i guess im gonna have to take the alternator out and get it tested

 

I used to have a Chevy Cavi and for years the power fluctuated in idle and I could never track it down to one problem. Sometimes when it got bad it was a loose battery cable or a dirty post but it never completely rid of it. Until, just before I had to trash it, the alternator bearing exploded and revealed the problem.

It's not even that likely, but if your alternator bearing is half crap then it will catch and release creating surges. But what you described doesn't seem to match it entirely. Just a thought.

 

So i managed to get it all taken care of. I took out the alternator, and due to my camshaft seals leaking oil, the oil sludged up in the alternator along side the voltage regulator/brushes. i cleaned all the connections and is now working beautifully.

thank you for your input

 

Glad to hear she's back to normal and it didn't cost you.

 

awsome.....!