Started at first crank, didn't warm up (Hawaii), drove it about a mile, then it died (all dash lights came on). Stopped, checked under hood, nothing except radiator fan kept going and smelled coolant. I replaced plugs, still no start. Towed it to shop. They replaced fuel pump (no pressure)and related parts (like filter). Still not start. Thermostat and sensor replaced. Repairs now about $900 already. Weather very wet. What to do?

 

what codes are you getting?

 

Do you have compression?

 

Compression's apparently good, mechanic said. Codes, I haven't pulled since I didn't know how until I read these columns. But car's at mechanic's now and he may or may not know about the codes. Maybe that's why I should just take it to Volvo next time. But it's farther, the mechanic's a good one but does all kinds of cars, not just Volvo. Body's great shape, had timing belt changed a couple of years ago, and everything else works, except AC which I'm not fixing. But faulty AC was what caused a similar cut out several years ago. I've read about the Camshaft Position Sensor and all that and might do that as a last resort as they are expensive. Would appreciate any help.

 

Take it to a mechanic who can diagnose the problem before just throwing parts at it. Did he ck to see if the pump was getting voltage before replacing it? Or did he just guess it was the pump since there was no fuel pressure?

 

gdog, what do you think of the prevailing opinions about the camshaft position sensor and the Mass Air Sensor failures as frequent causes for the Volvo 850 1994 starting problems?

 

If it was the CPS it should throw a code.
The camshaft position sensor is referenced at startup by the ECU to determine which valves are open and which are closed and compare that to piston position to fire the injectors and ignition coil at the right time. Typically even intermittent camshaft positions sensor failure will result in a code stored in the ECU so be sure to check the ECU for codes even if you don't have a check engine light on.

What was your fuel pressure?
Were the plugs Wet?
How strong/ consistant is your spark ?
Has he tried spraying either into the manifold to see if the motor pops?
Also,
When was the last time you change your cap and rotor, the reason I ask is that Hawaii's climate is alot like South Florida. I you dont have a good seal from rotor to block moisture will get in there and corrode your leads, and even break off your posts..

 

+1 to what Matty said.

This is '94 so is OBDI meaning you can read the DTCs out w/o a code reader. If you or your tech don't know how to do that we can point you to a link with instructions.

It sounding like you have multiple issues; you, or your competent tech, needs to troubleshoot these one at a time to figure out what the issue(s) are and repair them.

The alternative is to guess and throw parts at it; i don't endorse that process...

 

thanks a lot guys, I appreciate all of the advice and the explanations. Spark is good, I put in brand new plugs just before the mechanic towed it away. weather is very wet but wires are new. Fuel pressure, after the new pump, is good. But I haven't heard from him for a couple of days, so he hasn't solved the problem yet. I've got the sites you guys have put up for finding the OBD and the meaning of the codes which I've printed out. I really don't think the mech knows about these codes since he has never mentioned them. I might just have it towed to Volvo and let them take care of it. thanks.

 

Well, gdog et al, apparently that's what he's doing: throwing parts at it. I called him again and when I finally got him, he said it's "leading towards the computer". And he's pricing that out. How often does that happen? He also said he has a scanner for the codes, but I thought a 1994 had to be read manually with the LEDs in the engine compartment with those A and B boxes? I told him about the camshaft position sensor but I'm not sure he knows how to read the codes. At the price these 1994 850s are selling at, I could almost buy another one. But I do want to keep this one because of the great body condition, stick shift, good gas mileage, and no dents or anything, so perhaps I should just cut my losses, pay him what I owe him and have it towed to Volvo. (At least towing's covered!) What do you think?

 

Hate to say it but your guy sounds like he's guessing. If he doesn't even know how to pull codes... jeeez, that's scary.

On OBDI cars you can read DTCs with a scanner too; my point was that you don't need a scanner to read them.

I would go here and see if there's recommended volvo shop near you. If you like the car it's definitely worth keeping; of course that depends on how much it's going to cost you to keep it going; judgement call..

Anyway here's the link:
http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/find.html

 

this is so typical of a volvo , so you have compression you have spark you have fuel pressure and the timing belt is in one piece , should start , have you changed the plugs ?

 

Hookuspookus,

yes, I changed the plugs just before it was towed away to the graveyard of the local friendly mechanic where many a Volvo sits dead.

 

if you getting spark you have a fuel issue try wiggling the wiring harness that goe's to the injectors , have you changed the fuel filter ?

 

Hookus,
got spark, got fuel (he put in a new fuel pump that costs over $350 and all its related parts including filter) and fuel is reaching the injectors. I really think it's water in the gas (since it was really wet for a week before this happens) or something simple. He now thinks it's the computer and is pricing it out. Ah well....

 

Dear Greg,
Not resolved yet. I just might cut my losses and have it towed to Volvo or one of the other Volvo mechs your "mechanics files" lists. Both Matt Hodges and Jimmy Vuong sound competent. Thanks

 

DON"T PULL THE ECM ! sounds like timing belt slipped or broke ! give it a shot of starting fluid see if it trys to start , i bet he timing belt slipped are the plugs wet ? pull one and see if the plugs are wet

 

He's the same one who put in a new timing belt just about a year or so ago. Plugs are new and dry. But I'll make sure he doesn't pull the ECM (that's different from the OBD gizmo, right?)

 

I got the exact car and problem. 1. I replaced plugs wire cap and rotor. 2. Take the throttle body of and give it a good clean. 3. Check to see if you got oil in the cam sensor (CMP) is so replace seal easy takes 30min. 4. If you got a multi meter check your ignition module and your coil. Coil should between .5-1.5 ohms and you second check should be one on the lead and the other on the coil that should be .8-9ohms. Also check to see if your coil is getting hot on when the car key is in the second position. Or is your ignition module is smelling burnt.

If you need help more help let me know. This is what I did and my runs great.

 

oh yeah check your ignition module by turning your car on in to position 2 and checking the voltage from you ignition module and your ground on your battery. Should read same voltage.