confounded about cam settings
#1
confounded about cam settings
Hello everyone.
I am now the proud owner of a not-running 1994 850 turbo. Got it from a mechanic who was about to scrap it 'because there was no more room at his shop and didn't have the time,' -- it came with the information that it needed a head gasket job done, and a new radiator. It was driving when i bought it, but i had to take it about 60 miles up hill in order to get it home.
It performed surprosingly well before the coolant, i mean water, ran out and i got heat warnings, less than a minute from my driveway. It made it all the way in with no loss of power or anything.
Okay off to a good start.
I tried to water it and take it around the block the next day and its batttery had died over night, I attempted to jump it and just got a grinding noise, I cant confirm whether it was low juice on the starter or if it was coming from somewhere else.
I am a couple hours into the job, following this guys instructions:
Head Removal and Installation, Volvo 850 / S70 Turbo B5234T, B5254T, Head gasket replacement, valve replacement.
I'm at the point where I lock the cams together in there current positions and remove the upper timing belt and get the cam-cover off - except there seems to be a problem with the current cam positions. The marks which I believe should be at roughly 2oclock on the rear and 10oclock on the fore, are at 2 on the rear and are at high-noon on the fore.
this is really, really bad, right?
I am wondering - assuming that )it is actually problem and im not being extremely paranoid )the engine was running 'just fine' yesterday so it must be worth salvaging --- what would be the procedure to reset the cams to the factory spec position? simply remove timing belt and rotate it? what if for some reason on another job someone had felt the need to be funny and rotated the cam-cap-cog thingy without having actually put the cams out of sync .. how to tell? ...
Also - I just keep wondering: why is it important to have the crank in 'position 1' for the sake of doing a head-gasket replacement?
Im new at this wrenching thing but have an appreciation for the importance of timing in an interference engine. I really appreciate any advice and guidance I can get in the matter.
She a beaautiful black station wagon, I'd really like to get her road worthy once again Thanks all!
I am now the proud owner of a not-running 1994 850 turbo. Got it from a mechanic who was about to scrap it 'because there was no more room at his shop and didn't have the time,' -- it came with the information that it needed a head gasket job done, and a new radiator. It was driving when i bought it, but i had to take it about 60 miles up hill in order to get it home.
It performed surprosingly well before the coolant, i mean water, ran out and i got heat warnings, less than a minute from my driveway. It made it all the way in with no loss of power or anything.
Okay off to a good start.
I tried to water it and take it around the block the next day and its batttery had died over night, I attempted to jump it and just got a grinding noise, I cant confirm whether it was low juice on the starter or if it was coming from somewhere else.
I am a couple hours into the job, following this guys instructions:
Head Removal and Installation, Volvo 850 / S70 Turbo B5234T, B5254T, Head gasket replacement, valve replacement.
I'm at the point where I lock the cams together in there current positions and remove the upper timing belt and get the cam-cover off - except there seems to be a problem with the current cam positions. The marks which I believe should be at roughly 2oclock on the rear and 10oclock on the fore, are at 2 on the rear and are at high-noon on the fore.
this is really, really bad, right?
I am wondering - assuming that )it is actually problem and im not being extremely paranoid )the engine was running 'just fine' yesterday so it must be worth salvaging --- what would be the procedure to reset the cams to the factory spec position? simply remove timing belt and rotate it? what if for some reason on another job someone had felt the need to be funny and rotated the cam-cap-cog thingy without having actually put the cams out of sync .. how to tell? ...
Also - I just keep wondering: why is it important to have the crank in 'position 1' for the sake of doing a head-gasket replacement?
Im new at this wrenching thing but have an appreciation for the importance of timing in an interference engine. I really appreciate any advice and guidance I can get in the matter.
She a beaautiful black station wagon, I'd really like to get her road worthy once again Thanks all!
#2
Treat it like you are changing the timing belt. Follow these instructions here Volvo Performance Repairs And Modifications - 850 S/V/C 70 Timing Belt Replacement
(read the whole thing and you will find the info for correct cam and crank settings) and you should have no problems. I did the same thing when I replaced the head gasket on our 850.
(read the whole thing and you will find the info for correct cam and crank settings) and you should have no problems. I did the same thing when I replaced the head gasket on our 850.
#3
To answer your question about the crank position, the engine was designed to be timed from the back end. The timing jig that the fatory intended to use was on the back of the cams, and that was an absolute fixing of cam position. So with that you needed to have the crank in the right place also. They didn't really intend on people depending on marks on the front of the cams.
#4
Really doesn't matter coming off, on is when it matters. Make sure you are seeing the correct timing marks. Since you are removing the head, the back of the cams is what matters.
Proper tool for timing and cam cover lock down.
https://swedishcarparts.com/parts/75...n-usa-9995452s
https://swedishcarparts.com/parts/14...in-usa-9995452
Proper tool for timing and cam cover lock down.
https://swedishcarparts.com/parts/75...n-usa-9995452s
https://swedishcarparts.com/parts/14...in-usa-9995452
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