1997 GLT 850 wagon front driver's side. Currently part way thru the job....can't get the clamp bolt out that holds the ball joint. Got the nut off... banged on the bolt, no go....tried turning it from the opposite (head) side...won't turn or spin. Accckkk !!!!

 

If all else fails remove the 2 screws holding the Strut to the Hub and take the Axle out that way.

 

Thanks Tech, I was considering the potential of that option. I appreciate your recommendation.

Scott

 

Sometimes those bottom bolts can be a real Bear.

Thats why A lift and a really big breaker bar are the way to go.

Also soak it really good with rust penetrant.

 

Used WD-40 and I split a Husky socket trying to spin that bolt, so that sucker is in there!

Took your advice and removed the two strut bolts and got the drive shaft out of the hub. I'm taking a break before I try to remove the axle from the trans or pull the outer CV boot off. The CV joint is not showing any obvious signs of damage. I have the boot kit, but if that's too difficult, I may go buy the axle. It's my first time ever doing this, so the learning curve is a big one, but I'm determined. Thanks for the great advice, Scott

 

Which side Axle is it?
If it is the Right side (Pass. side) then you will need to remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the Axle support bearing to the engine and it will slide out no problem. If it is the Left side (Drivers side) then you will have to pry between the Axle and transmission to pop it out.

When you get the Axle out clean the Joint good. Where the Axle goes into the Joint you will see a Clip that needs to be spread. You will need to hold the clip open (spread) then Tap the outer joint off.
Sometimes they can be a Bear as well.

 

Driver's side. Geez that was a b**** prying that axle out. I was hoping I'd be able to get the CV joint off without removing the axle. But after discovering the ring clip opening was on the bottom side, I had to pull it out. If I could get the d*** axle today, I would replace the whole thing after all that work. But I need to get this car ready for inspection on Monday, so I guess I'm going to attempt removing the CV joint. And yeah, everything I've read says it can be really hard to remove. Wish me luck!

Scott

 

Good Luck.

BeCaferul hammering on the Joint. I always use a Brass Punch. If you don't have one then make sure you Tap on the outside edge carefully.

I have also seen some just fall off when you open the Clip.

Do you have like a CV pro's near you or something like that where you could bring it and have it rebuilt today?

 

No, I don't have a brass punch, and if there's a CV pro shop near me, I'm unaware of it. If worst comes to worst and I ruin it, I'll wait until Monday and buy the whole darn axle. I've read tips like using the right size socket as a tap. I'm going to tackle it shortly. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your time and advice.

Scott

 

No problem I will be waiting to hear from you.

 

OMG, first break of the whole job. I actually got it off in about 5 minutes with only some light tapping on the outer rim with a plastic screwdriver handle. I think I have some engine degreaser around here somewhere that I could clean it with.

Of course I'm covered in grease too. Probably just toss this old t shirt I'm wearing when I'm done.

 

CONGRATS[sm=happy046.gif][sm=goodidea.gif]on the shirt thing.

Thats the Worse Job in my opinion on the entire car. Thats what I hate doing the most because of the Grease.

 

Hi tech, thanks for Kudos!

OK, so I started cleaning this thing. the degreaser I have is the foaming type. I'm a bit concerned that it's not the right kind to use. I'm also worried about how I'm going to wipe it all off, especially on the inside. And how clean do I have to get this thing? Is there another product I have to use to remove the degreaser?

Scott

 

Do you have any Brake or Carb Cleaner?
If not and all else Fails Rinse with water and try to as fast as possible.

Then pack the Grease in there really good.

What alot of peopl don't know is alot of people at Dealerships wash parts with the Parts washer then rinse them with Water blow them dry with compressed air and put all back together.

 

Yes! I do have carb cleaner. When reading the Haynes manual, I noticed they mentioned compressed air, of course I don't have that option. So the final product would be carb cleaner, then use the grease?

Scott

 

OH, and I'm just using ordinary paper towels to wipe everything off. As this thing gets cleaner, it's harder and harder to swivel. Tho I was able to swivel it far enought that one of the ***** acutally came out.

 

Yes just clean it the Best you can then install the Grease from the Boot kit.

TIP: Only cut a corner out of the Package if it is in a square thin plastic envelope type thing. Then stick the opening in by one of the ***** and squeeze the Grease in like that. Do that all the way around then with the left over after that is all done squeeze it into the Hole in the joint.

 

OK, carb cleaner was the answer. Can I also use it to clean up the ball joint, tie rod, inside of tire rim, etc. ?

I received two skinny silver packs of grease. I'm pretty sure I don't have the turbo, so I suspect I only need one pack.

The VIN code....

YV1LW5647V2307626

56 = B5254T Emissions = 4 (850AWD Canada)

4 = w/o EGR w/air pump, w/OBDII, w/elec. control evap,


Is that turbo? is there anyway I can tell for sure?

TIA, Scott

 

How hard will it be to put the axle in the transmission? Do I bang it in? Do I clean it first with carb cleaner? do I need to lube it or anything first?

 

Yes you have a turbo engine.
The packs of grease should be the same for turbo and Non-turbo.
The reason they give you 2 is because the kit usually does both joints inner and outer.

They Grey Dark looking grease is for the outer joint. The Tan looking grease is for the inner Triepod joint.

The axle will push into the Trans. If it doesn't go right in CAREFULLY Kind of use the Axle like a Slide hammer. Pull the Axle shaft out a little then push it in hard. Make sure it snaps in all the way.