Car is a 1996 850 GLT - bone stock. 155,000 miles.

Today I was driving down a road I drive every day. It's a perfectly straight and boring road, so I wasn't jerking the car all over the place to knock something loose. Well, every one of the problem indicator lights turns on. The car continues to run as if nothing is going on. A couple minutes later (while I was in the ATM line) the lights turn off. Great I think to myself. Then 1/2 mile down the road they come back on then off and back on. By the limited test I did while driving, punching it caused the lights to turn back off while just cruising, they would come back on.

When I got home I checked the battery ground and the two valve cover grounds. All three were tight and solid. There is no corrosion on my battery terminals. Are there other grounds somewhere that I can check? With my old hondas, there is a main ground on the thermostat housing that if it is loose can wreak havoc with the electrical system. Is there something like that with these 850s?

Here is a 43 second video I took of it in action in PARK in my driveway.
1996 Volvo 850 GLT dash lights - YouTube


I appreciate any insight and help you guys can offer!

 

There is a good chance you might have a bad ignition switch. Next time it happens try to turn the key a bit forward and or backward in the run position. If the lights go out it's the switch starting to go bad.

 

Check your alternator! Mine did that if the voltage drops too low the modules will shut down to conserve power! Hook up a volt meter on to your battery, and watch voltage. Turn on headlights, high beams, max ac blower fan, and radio! Voltage should stay above 12.6! I believe my warning lights were coming on around 10.6 volts! But I would check this first because I thought maybe my issue was the switch due to having to turn the switch back when started! But after replacing it I noticed my voltage guage was still actin up!

 

This was actually another thing I tried while driving back home as it was the only thing I can physically test while driving. the key doesn't really budge any amount to cause the lights to turn on or off...

I think it may be alternator related unfortunately. I need a new lead for my voltmeter asap so I can check this thing...

Strange that a failing alternator doesn't just trigger the battery light. One would think that once voltage dropped below a certain point, it would trigger that light. Not every light in the dash...I guess I'll just swing by autozone tomorrow after work and have them test the voltages for me

 

Well, I wouldn't count on AutoZone doing you right by an alternator check. I sold a car to a lady and told her to call me if she every had a problem. Well, she does (have to remember to change my number). Anyway, she ran the battery down and had a problem starting the car. Had it jumped and let it idle a few minutes, then tried to start it a few days later and it wouldn't start again. Had it jumped again and drove it a few miles to work. Wouldn't start again so had it jumped and went to AutoZone. They tested the battery and told her it was good. Then told her that the alternator must be the problem. Volvo alternators are expensive so when they gave her the sticker shock on the cost of the alternator and shop time, she called.

Long story short, she never got the battery charged and never drove far enough for the alternator to charge the battery so the battery simply wasn't charged enough to start the car. It takes HOURS for an alternator to charge a dead battery.

Anyway, I do think you have an alternator problem. The simplest way to test it is to start the car and turn the lights on. If the lights are dim, the alternator may not be putting out ENOUGH volts, something like 14.2. So, you can rev the engine to see if the brightness of the lights change. Shouldn't be much of a change but if so, the alternator is putting out more volts at higher rpms, which is NOT good.

Volvo (Bosch) alternators are good and don't go out that often. If you want a used one and can't get one nearby, I know someone that has one.

I know that auto parts can properly check anternators, just sometimes they 1/2 do their job and send you off for parts that cost you money (not them).

A Shocking Expose: Your Car's Battery - Edmunds.com

 

Dropped by Autozone after work cuz the lights came back on and the voltage at the battery while running was 11.75 steady. The car runs fine, but I know it wont much longer.

RSPI: Can you please see how much the used alternator is? Is it still functioning? Are they all the sale from NA to turbo 850s? Mine is a 96 2.4L if it makes any difference. Autozone sells them for $180 and the Stealership sells them for $450. That's nuts!

 

If you are under 12 volts then you are running off the battery and your time is very limited.
If you go to change it out yourself one trick is to use a 1/2 breaker bar in the hole of the belt adjuster. You can tape one or two pennies to the end and it's supposed to fit right in. Normal tools won't fit this beast and it's a pain to try to do it with just a pry bar.

They are not all the same but my 95 850 turbo takes a 13520 about 182 from Oreilly and fits the following: It would be 96 Volvo vin 55 which is the one for a 2.4

VOLVO850(1993 - 1996)
VOLVO850 GLT1995
VOLVO850 T5 R1995
VOLVO850 TURBO1995
VOLVO960(1995 - 1997)
VOLVOS90(1997 - 1998)
VOLVOV90(1997 - 1998)
Please refer to catalog for application details.

Yours could be a 13800 and closer to 225 in a reman with a lifetime warranty if it was one of the 2.3's, engine VIN 57 or 58.

I like to buy local and go with the lifetime warranty as I plan on hanging on to mine but you could try Rockauto if you don't mind buying on line. Depending on which yours takes it could be less than 150.
In most cases you will need to swap your pulley over. Most of the parts stores can help you with that too.

Chris, you should edit your info and enter your city and state or a city near you if you're concerned. That way if someone is browsing and sees where you're from they might jump in with a part. I have a new one in my garage but shipping would kill the deal.

 

swap the pulley? The new ones dont have the correct pulley on them? I might just pull it and have it rebuilt....

 

The ones you buy at most parts stores will not have the pulley (Volvo) as the pulley is easily re-useable and by not putting one on the alternator the alternator will fit more cars. An alternator may work for a number of different cars except one is a 5 rib belt, one is 6 and another is 8. By not putting the pulley on the alternator it's a direct fit to more vehicles and all that's done is to move the pulley over. It's common and nothing to be concerned with.
It's the same with clocking. The electrical connector is referred to by it's clock position. One alternator may fit a "ton" of vehicles but they are "clocked" differently. If you know how to reorient one you can grab one that isn't necessarily the correct part number, they may not have the one for your vehicle but if you grab the identical one and clock it to your application you're not stuck waiting for one to come in. Sometimes it's even possible to stretch the connectors wiring to hook it up without re-clocking. But, when possible it's always nice to get the one you're supposed to have so it just drops in. BMW and Mercedes are another one that usually doesn't come with the pulley.

 

When I looked up the parts on FCP, the one I know about is different than yours. I looked up the '96 NON turbo and the part # is 5003975. When I looked up the car it is coming off of, '96 850 turbo (R) the part # is 5003996. Not sure if it will work. There is another ref # AL0053X - VS - AL0752X.

I just checked www.iPdUSA.com and it shows the same later part number for both cars. The used one should work for you.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6441/...50-c70-s70-v70

 

I'd say your alternator is bad. Keep a battery charger close by.

I'd go with a Bosch but it may not make a difference. I see them for about $225 ($100 core) on FCP. Not sure if they will do free shipping on something that heavy.

 

I bought a Bosch Volvo rebuilt from my local aftermarket company for $130. Still has the Volvo tag on

 

I have a 850R I am parting out and I have an alternator I can sell you.

 

$70 bucks and $15 for shipping

 

I sell batteries for a living and the real quick way to know if your alternator is working you need a volt meter. With the car running check the battery and see how many volts are running through it it should be 13.5-14v that's the alternator charging the battery.

 

When I changed my timing belt I forgot to put on the serpentine belt before I started the car. I was in total panic because all my dash light stayed on(like in your video). I started the car over and over waiting for them to go out but they didnt. I then got out of the car to look at the engine and face/palm. Anyway, moral of the story here is when my alternator was not charging(running) I had this problem. Not saying your belt is gone but you get the point.

 

Thanks, I found a used Bosch Volvo alternator today for $50 locally. I do appreciate the help though. Gonna take it to an auto parts store and have them test it on their machine before I go swapping it out. I picked up a car from my parents tonight to drive until I get this thing fixed.



LOL, thanks for the confirmation that my alternator is dead. I'm surprised my battery hasnt died yet. I wonder if its because sometimes the lights turn back off?

 

You may have come across the term "diode trio". The way it relates to alternators is there are three phases or pulses. The diodes and the regulator smooth these out so you get a rms voltage. If one of the diodes goes bad you lose 33% if two 66%. The alternator will NOT trip the idiot light but anytime you use more electricity like headlights and or blower motor then the alternator can put out you are working off the battery. Normally something fails and you get no output so you are below 12V with the engine running and it's a no brainer, dead alternator. But have a diode or two out and you'll get good voltage at idle but if you turn something on it will take a dive. If you don't have too much on and you drive freeway you can keep up but have a day off and go shopping with city driving and all of a sudden you get a no start with a weak or dead battery. It can be a little frustrating if you don't know what to look for.

 

NO ! NO ! NO !

That is an old trick that can, can fry a good alternators regulator. On the newer alternators if you disconnect the battery it can fry the regulator. I don't know the specifics of why that reference voltage loss causes it to go, but it can and does cause them to fail to perform.
It's just a guess but I think with the loss of a "load" (the battery) and a voltage signal (also from the battery) to the regulator, the regulator goes full and the excess voltage takes it out. Or as they say in the trade, "fries" it.

You are correct in a 80's 70's or earlier it is a good test of the alternator. It isn't telling you if the alternator is partially functional it will only confirm that the alternator is either dead or that it's putting out enough to run the vehicle and whatever you have turned on. If you do this test on an older vehicle you want to crank everything on that you can and that way at idle if the headlights look good it's likely you have a good alternator. Not sure when they started to warn installers but I wouldn't take a chance on a 90's and never on anything 2000 +.
It's like not putting an alternator on that has the clutch on the end. It may be cheaper to buy or easier to swap out but it will cause you problems in it's operation and engine smoothness and operation.

Best bet is if it runs and you can get it there, take it to a parts store and get the guy who looks like he knows what he is doing to do the free Battery, Starter and Alternator test with the hand held tester. Give them a call to make sure it is available just in case.

It's like the check engine light. Most do it for free or loan you the scanner to use in the lot. It's free, why guess when you can be sure

 

I got that local alternator and took it to the local parts store and had them test it. IT's in good condition. I'll be putting it on saturday if weather permits. (Driveway mechanic)