hey guys I'm having an odd issue with the 8:50. I replaced the rear brakes a brake line on the right rear and the upper motor mount with a polyurethane one and now I have hesitation and the car wants to stall when I'm coming to a stop or when I turn the steering wheel.

while I was in there I tighten down all my hose clamps for my intercooler and I also did an oil change. the car was running fine last night after I did the brakes and the oil change comma this problem just developed today after doing the polyurethane mount. the only thing I can think of is that it is fuel-related and there's possibly ice in the fuel lines. it has been ridiculously cold here the last few days and I've had some trouble starting it. I have also left the fuel drop to about 4 gallons so that I can change my fuel tank vent hose.

the throttle body was recently cleaned and I've been running injector cleaner through it on a biweekly basis when I pull up. does anyone have any suggestions on where to start? I do have an extra coolant temp sensor laying here however it was replaced already when I did the thermostat and housing with an unknown condition used part that came with the housing that I've been running with for about 3 months now with no troubles.

 

Wonder if you cracked some of the intake tubing when tightening down. Try spraying some starter fluid etc along the intake hoses to see if it sucks in and bumps the idle. Could be fuel pressure related - ie the regulator or the EGR venting... I'd start by dropping some "Heet" or similar into the tank.

 

Well, I filled up the tank tonight. It seems to have cleared up...somewhat. Started getting worse before I fueled, anytime I slowed to a stop or shifted into gear and let off the brake it stalled. And if I turn the wheel all the way to lock it will stall occasionally. It still "hiccups" while cruising and acts like it wants to stall. Its acting like a massive vacuum leak or fuel delivery issue.

Some thoughts I have on where to look:

Fuel pressure at rail while running
----intake tubing after MAF (and with my ghetto rigged cone filter setup, that could be Ipart of the issue. I did remove the maf and filter assembly from the car and left the plastic intake tube bolted to turbo. It took significant force to remove the maf from the tube, and it could have cracked)
----cam sensor below torque mount (I was beating on the poly bushing with a handheld 10lb sledge to try and get it in, maybe I jarred something loose there?)
----coolant temp sensor (the one in there now came with the used housing when I replaced it in Oct. No troubles with it, but unknown mileage condition, so I can't overlook it. I do have my old one that came on the car, still in the original broken housing that I plan to swap to try and eliminate this possibility)
----fuel pressure relay (above radiator - corroded connectors/bad relay?)
----possible failing fuel pump (I hope not... )

Last (and most improbable) is an e brake not adjusted properly and dragging or a seized rear caliper causing too much load on the system. I can't seem to get the mpg on the info display to go above 17 mpg, and I am hearing noises coming from the rear while I'm releasing the brakes, so I do want to go back in and realign everything. The calipers shouldn't be seized, they were replaced back when I did the last set of rear pads (~august).

Its weird though, the car will idle fine. And maybe stumble once randomly. But as soon as I put it in gear and take my foot off it will stall.

On another more positive note though, holy dog poo batman! What a huge difference the poly upper mount makes. More NVH but not enough to make it annoying. And the benefits to the feeling of more stability in the car are worth every single vibration more. Honestly its only rough when the car is cold and first started. After about 5 min the NVH goes down. I installed it and had my buddy put the car in drive so I could torque it down and it seems to have helped. I need to do the same for the lower tranny poly mount. I will say though that I don't think I would want the firewall poly bushing, that may make it a bit too harsh. Dunno, may try it and see if I can find one used...

 

I went out and pulled the codes from the OBDII port with torq and my ELM adapter. 7 codes listed

Now I know its not the most accurate way of pulling them and I should go under the hood and count the flashes, blah blah etc etc...but its too damn cold outside for that lol

So in order as pulled (and cross referenced to the OBDII list HERE ):

P0141 -- ECM-2200 -- Rear heated oxygen sensor bank 1, heating -- Faulty signal
P0137 -- ECM-222D -- Rear heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 -- Signal too low
P1310
P0302 -- ECM-3220 -- Misfire cylinder 2, start-up -- Start-up
P0302 -- ECM-322C -- Misfire cylinder 2, catalytic converter damage -- Catalytic converter damage
P0302 -- ECM-322D -- Misfire cylinder 2, emissions impact -- Emissions impact
P0336 -- ECM-5000 -- Engine speed (RPM) sensor signal -- Faulty signal
P0300 -- ECM-3100 -- Misfire, at least one cylinder -- Start-up
P0300 -- ECM-310C -- Misfire, at least one cylinder -- Catalytic converter damage
P0300 -- ECM-310D -- Misfire, at least one cylinder -- Emissions impact
P0300 -- ECM-310D -- Misfire, at least one cylinder -- Emissions impact
P0102 -- ECM-121D -- Mass air flow sensor -- Signal too low

These are most likely generic codes and not volvo specific. I'm not certain... Is there a difference on the 95 dual obd cars in codes?

So one lesson learned: I knew my CEL was on because of the rear o2 (2 codes not listed thru Torq). I normally don't check them because of that. After this though I think I'll be checking them more often (at least until I can get my hands on a "new" rear o2 sensor). I was in the habit of checking them every oil change when I pulled my mileage (broken/wrong odo gear set) but I've been following the trip meter in the info display to keep track of my intervals, so...

 

the 95s display the Volvo proprietary 3 digit codes but you can use the literals to map. Regarding the rear O2 sensor, my understanding is that it is used to provide a delta before/after the cat to show its efficiency, but its the front O2 sensor that drives the FI mix. You are showing misfires which can be wires/plugs/rotor/cap tune up time but you are also showing the MAF out of range which could be due to dirty connectors, dirty wire elements or a failing MAF. What I'd do to start is 1) get some CRC MAF cleaner and clean the elements. 2) inspect and clean the connector contact points for the MAF. 3) pop off the head cover and then start the car in a dark garage to see if there's any arcing from the wires (a water mist can help). 4) check the date code on the wires, if over 5 years replace. 5) pull the #2 plug and inspect for color and gap back to .028 6) clear all the codes and see what returns :-)

 

Pretty sure it's not the MAF sensor, and that code is probably there from the other night when I tried unplugging the MAF to see if it made any difference/change (it didn't...)

Much warmer weather today, above freezing. I'm going to take the car for a ride and do some datalogging with DashCommand and Torq, see what comes up while its misfiring

 

Yep, no problem with clearing the codes first then see if they reset. Also you may consider throwing some dry gas (ie "Heet") into the car at your next fill up in case you picked up some water in the fuel tank.

 

well, back to the drawing board.

Its 58 degrees outside today (give or take) and the car is running worse. Misfiring, stalling out as soon as I put it in gear, the works.

Did some poking around under the hood. I think I found a likely culprit. The cam position sensor plug is completely disintegrated on the back side, exposing wires and pins. I suspect the sensor isn't getting good connection and shorting out. Looks like I'll be calling FCP to order a new one very shortly

 

Update:

After letting the car sit for a week I went out and jumpstarted the car (left the ELM plugged in and killed the battery )

While I was running the car to get some charge back into the battery, I poked around under the hood. When I wiggle the air intake ducting from the maf to the turbo, the car bogs and wants to die. I think I found my issue: Cracked intake tubing after the maf causing too much unmetered air to get thru and throwing the readings off from the MAF.

Time to order the Snabb intake pipe it looks like, as well as a new cam sensor to replace the one with the faulty connector.

Will post updates once I'm able to get a new one ordered and on the car.

 

Good job.