Hello all, I have a t5r that I manual swapped a month or so ago. It was working great, transmission out of an s70, dual mass flywheel, all used parts except for a new clutch. One day, I shifted pretty fast from 2nd to third. After that, it has been hard to get in and out of gear. Sometimes it would go into gear nice at idle, but most of the time it was very notchy. Under any load or rpm, it would not go in or out of gear. So, I figured it was a transmission issue and swapped in another m56. Just got it back together yesterday and it’s doing the same thing. It will always go into any gear smoothly at idle, but if driving or if I rev the car above 1500 rpm or so it won’t shift or it will grind. It has also been making an intermittent grinding/scraping sound when I put the clutch in, even though I put in a new throw out bearing. I’m starting to think it may be a flywheel issue but I would like some input before I start ripping everything apart again

 

sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing. Did you notice any leaking by the slave cylinder? You may want to try bleeding the hydraulics before tearing it apart again.

 

No leaking, it’s internal slave and I just put in a new bearing/slave when the new transmission went in. The pedal feels like it is firm enough but I’ll try bleeding it again. What is the best way on these cars?

 

As another has said the clutch may not be releasing all the way - you can test by trying to put the car in reverse - engine running, car in neutral, clutch out (not depressed) push the clutch pedal in and if try (slowly) to put in reverse - if it Grinds the transmission is still spinning, and not releasing properly.

 

Ok, I’ll try that when I get home tonight

 

Ok, did some further testing. At idle, it will go into all gears smoothly. If revved up to 2000 rpm or so it is very hard to get into gear- shifter feels very notchy, and it feels like I’m going to break something with the amount of force needed to put into gear. However, it will still go into first and reverse without grinding. I’m going to see if I can put a pressure bleeder on it at work tonight and see if that helps. Also, I’ve noticed at the very top of the clutch pedal throw it feels soft. Not sure if that is normal or not, it still has enough pressure to bring the pedal all the way up to the stop though.

 

Just pressure bled the clutch, got a minimal amount of air out. No difference in shifting though. What else is there, a leaking master cylinder? How would I check if that leaks?

 

If one or say a few of the fingers on the pressure plate get bent, then it won't release, and that's generally the problem in these cases with any car, but it's hard to see how rpm would make such a big difference as you are seeing. I'm confused about that. To me, there should be an explanation, and I don't have it. I'm a fundamentalist, so I don't really grasp at random stuff. If there is force coming into the input shaft that isn't supposed to, like say from the pilot on the crank, speed shouldn't affect it all that much.

The fundamentalist view would include this:
1. RPM has no effect on the hydraulics, you can bet on that.
2. It's self adjusting, but if the fingers don't all bend the same, the fingers will defeat its ability to adjust and behave like it's getting the full stroke.
3. The synchronizers are mechanically distinct in every gear. If it does this in all gears, then it can't be a transmission problem.

Sometimes, I'm wrong and there's a perfectly good explanation, but I do like to find it.

Hope you solve it, good luck.

 

Agree with the other guys, issue seems to be with the clutch itself. Did you inspect the pressure plate carefully when you had it apart last? Best guess is the pressure plate and/or the clutch plate has partially failed from your quick shift.

 

I didn’t inspect the clutch the last time I had it out. Might as well do a single mass this time though. Gotta work up the motivation to pull it again but maybe this weekend I’ll get to it