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  #1  
Old 03-21-2010, 10:14 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 13
Question EGR Flow is Too Low?

I checked the codes on my 1995 Volvo 850 and I got the 2-4-1 code from the A2 Engine socket. According to the bay 13 trouble codes it means "EGR Flow is Too Low" What exactly does this mean, is it something major to be concerned about? Please let me know, Thanks.
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Old 03-22-2010, 12:22 AM
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Location: Pac NW
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If you don't know what EGR is, just google "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" to find a good explanation. Following from manual on this DTC:

2-4-1 (EGR Flow Incorrect)
1) EGR temperature sensor signal should change when signal
from ECU is sent to vacuum controller. If signal does not change, ECU
registers a fault and sets code. Possible faults include:
* Break in signal lead.
* No voltage at EGR controller.
* Faulty EGR controller.
* Poor vacuum supply to EGR valve (White vacuum hose).
* Faulty Yellow vacuum hose.
* EGR valve does not open.
2) To check operation of EGR vacuum controller, start and run
engine so it reaches normal operating temperature. Put hand on EGR
controller and increase engine speed several times over 2000 RPM. If
EGR controller produces a ticking sound, go to next step. If EGR
controller is not ticking, go to step 9) and check voltage supply to
EGR controller.
3) Ensure engine is still running. Carefully disconnect White
vacuum hose from EGR controller and check for vacuum. If vacuum is not
present, check White vacuum hose between controller and intake
manifold. If vacuum is present, go to next step and check vacuum from
EGR controller.
4) Turn ignition off. Reconnect White vacuum hose to EGR
controller. Carefully disconnect Yellow vacuum hose from EGR
controller. Connect vacuum gauge to EGR controller. Start engine.
Increase engine speed repeatedly. If gauge pointer moves rapidly,
verifying EGR controller is passing vacuum, go to step 6) and check
EGR valve. If gauge does not move rapidly, go to next step.
5) Turn ignition off. Carefully disconnect Yellow vacuum hose
at both ends. Check Yellow vacuum hose for blockage. If hose is okay,
repeat test using new EGR controller. If hose is blocked, repeat test
using new vacuum hose.
6) To check EGR valve, turn ignition off. Reconnect Yellow
vacuum hose to EGR valve. Connect vacuum pump to Yellow vacuum hose at
EGR controller. Start engine. Increase vacuum to 9 in. Hg. (30 kPa).
Ensure EGR valve retains vacuum (engine will run rough).
7) If engine runs rough when vacuum pump shows vacuum but
vacuum pump loses vacuum, check Yellow vacuum hose for leakage. If
hose is okay, retest using new EGR valve. Clear codes. If engine idles
evenly when vacuum pump shows vacuum and vacuum pump maintains vacuum,
ensure EGR pipe is not blocked. If pipe is not blocked, repeat test
using new EGR valve. Clear codes.
8) If engine idles rough when vacuum pump shows vacuum and
vacuum pump maintains vacuum, fault is intermittent. Check vacuum
controller connector. If connector is okay, check Green/Brown wire
between EGR controller terminal No. 1 and ignition ECU terminal No. 27
for intermittent short to voltage or ground.
9) If EGR controller was not ticking in step 2), check
voltage at EGR controller. Turn ignition on. Disconnect EGR controller
connector. Connect voltmeter between EGR controller connector terminal
No. 2 and ground. See Fig. 8. If voltmeter indicates battery voltage,
go to next step and check signal lead. If no voltage is present, check
for open circuit in Green wire between EGR controller terminal No. 2
and main relay terminal No. 3. Clear codes.
10) To check signal lead, turn ignition on. Disconnect EGR
controller connector. Connect voltmeter between wiring side of EGR
controller terminals No. 1 and 2. See Fig. 8. If battery voltage is
not present, check for open circuit or short to voltage in Green/Brown
wire between EGR controller terminal No. 1 and ignition ECU terminal
No. 27. Clear codes. If battery voltage is present, go to next step.
11) To check EGR controller resistance, turn ignition off.
Disconnect EGR controller connector. Connect an ohmmeter between EGR
controller terminals. See Fig. 8. If ohmmeter shows 75-95 ohms at 68  F
(20  C), check EGR controller connections for oxidation. Clear codes.
If ohmmeter does not show 75-95 ohms at 68  F (20  C), repeat test using new EGR controller. Clear codes.
__________________
Understanding how something is supposed to work, makes repairing it so much easier!

1998 S70 GLT, 70K mls, Bilstein TCs, IPD sways.
1996 855T, 120K mls,
N/A cams, N/A intake manifold & TB, ARD green w/M4.4, OBX improved, white injectors, 18T, R ExMan, Bilstein TCs, IPD sways, AEM boost and AFR gauges. Fun DD!
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 114
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There are two bolts on the driver side of the intake manifold that keep the egr valve in place. There is a gold pipe running into this as well as two small wires coming off it. Un bolt the gold pipe and clean inside it as best you can and take off the egr valve and clean it out. it will most likely be rock solid full of black gunk
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:41 PM
 
 
 
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affect, bbcode, code, controller, egr, flow, guest, headers, loses, normal, ticking, vacuum, valve, verification, volvo


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