Nice Continental runflats -- car slid uncontrollably down the snow-driveway -- hit a rock, airbags exploded, etc etc. I was actually surprised that not more damage was done. Have driven many cars down this driveway, never ever had this with any other car.

Parts for interior (airbags, seatbelts, clockspring, module) and bumper assembly. Plus supplies: about $ 700. Quite a bit of body work. Halfway with Stage 1 (just about to do the timing belt and PCV).

2nd option: 1995 NA Wagon, 220k miles for $ 700, which will be about $ 1000 after titling, inspection etc. Seller says it needs a CV (which comes with it).

Mine is a Turbo, but honestly, at 15-16 years old car, plus that I do not race it, I would be perfectly happy not to have it, but if the NA is a real dog, then I guess I need the Turbo.

Advice?

 

Turbo. If you own one now, you would never be satisfied with an NA. I test drove an NA once after owning the Turbo, mainly because it was a five speed, and there is no way I would own it.

 

I think if you hit something hard enough for the bags to go off, I wouldn't want to fix it.

 

I added some photos to the 1st post. I am also adding another photo here...

 

Crash was slow speed, I would say maybe 20-25 mph. I does pull to the left now, although manageable. I examined the car today at length... There is no structural damage, although some things need to be fixed.

 

Interesting facts -- Volvo on runflats was able to go up impressively on this steep driveway first, when there was a fresh layer maybe 1/2" of snow. 3-4 hours later, snow was was 2"-3" and it slid going down boom.

Funny, I had snow chains in the trunk which I was planning to mount on the way up. We have used this driveway for many years on snow, ice, rain, whatever, with all kinds of vehicles, bald and new tires, but never on runflats. Some cars, much less stable than Volvo, never had this slide. Going up, yes, we slide down, rotate and nose down.

I gotta think it is the Continental ContiProContacts SSR Runflats. By the way, snow chains (mounted after the accident) were useless for going up. Going to put some studded tires maybe. I like Firestone Winterforce....

 

Some tires are not rated for winter use. I was surprised to see that, especially with more expensive tires. They say, "not for use under 32 degrees".

As for the car, I don't think I would go to a 165 hp car after owning my S70 GLT or 850 R. I could if I had to but not likely. I'm sure the car can be fixed, if you had full coverage on it, take the check from the insurance company and get something else. If not, I'd probably replace it with something around $2,500.

 

That really sucks that the airbags deployed. I've seen more damage to cars and the airbags did not deploy. The car looks very fixable to me.

 

I am researching the Volvo documentation now -- evidently they deploy during front collision. There are no crash sensors upfront. Module and sensor is integrated in one unit, located under the console. This unit calculates the G-forces and "blows the whistle" when certain parameters are met. It deploys both airbgs (steering wheel and on-dash passenger-side). It also retracts both front seatbelts. SRS light is on, and it will not go off until the Module/Sensor is replaced. I did not find anything about immobilizing, and certainly my Volvo surely did not immobilize.

Manual states that both airbags, Module/Sensor, clockspring, seatbelt units, inititation wiring to Passenger Module, both SIPS. Reading on forums, people have not replaced SIPS, clockspring, Initiation wiring etc.

On more thing: passenger dash airbag is desiged to hit the windshield. That is why the windshield is cracked badly and needs replacement.

From impact one of the radiatior ears was broken, i.e. radiator/intercooler/fan need re-supporting, which is not a big deal.

It's just a lot of work, which puts me back if not months, weeks on my other projects on the car.

 

I don't think you would be happy with the non-turbo car. Since the trans quit in my '96 850R wagon about a month ago, I have been driving a '96 Honda Civic LX automatic. While, it's a nice car, it's sooooooo slllloooooowwwwwwww. The transmission does not downshift when I want it to, and even if it does downshift for passing, it has NO power to do so. I'm used to my R downshifting exactly when I want it to, and then allowing me to just BLAST by the other cars once it spools up. Damn...I love this car....I miss this car....ugh....

 

Yes, I do appreciate the ability to drive properly in NYC -- aggressively, although this is no nasty monster truck to be sure. I agree that turbo becomes a safety tool.

 

Henry: I think it's time to cut bait and move on. That car needs a lot to get it right and I think you can find another car for a lot less trouble. Some things are simply not worth the trouble.

 

I already decided to go ahead and fix it. I placed the order for parts (2 airbags + 2 seatbelt units + Module/Sensor + Clockspring + front Bumper Assembly) for $ 350 + tax from M & J Auto in Colchester, CT. I need to paint the bumper to my purple. I also made an appointment for the windshield at 3 today ($ 175) plus tax.

Yes, there will be some others things.

This car (pre-accident) wasn't perfect, but neither will be the new one at what I am willing to pay.

Present car: I actually like the color, I like that it is a 95, and that is Turbo. A lot of things are in good shape. At least, I managed to extinguish all Christmas lights on the instrument panel; now of course SRS is on, but it will go off in the future.

I will be opening the dash again -- good, because now I can fix the Turbo gauge.

 

After reattaching the radiator and co. I was able to get some of the parts needed. More to chase after.

I also found a '96 hunter green Turbo Wagon with 148k miles, which appears nice for $ 900. Seller says "it needs a idle air control valve", does not run well until warmed, CEL comes and goes, etc. etc. It's in Chester, New Hampshire.

 

Definately check out that other car. Your existing car may take a lot more work to get backo n the road than you realize. I'd rather do mechanical work than having to deal with rebuilding the SRS system.

 

Keeping and fixing it -- this is unnatural for me. Wife says "you change cars like sultans change their wives". LOL. I am also actually looking at a couple of V70s.

I don't mind electronics, would rather prefer that than mechanical work myself. Although changing the SRS components is hardly electronic.

When I think at this car, which I bought 6 months ago as a backup, important components work very well. Engine, transm, driveshaft, braking system, steering, suspension, cold AC, toast heater, turbo works well. I mean besides a few small problems, such as tailgate struts, headlight wipers, seat heaters, Turbo gauge (which I broke), things are well. Yes, it will need Timing Belt and PCV very shortly, but that would be the case with any candidate.

Purple Color has grown into me. I had detailed the car before the crash and it was looking sharp.

A couple of years back, my wife's SUV (black and chrome, sharp) was hit by a 16-year old backing out in the parking lot. His insurance check was about $ 3,500, and I think I paid $ 1,000 to some gypsies in New Haven, CT to get it fixed. I should have done the work myself, they even drilled a wood screw through my wiring harness under the fender which messed up the ABS on that truck. I really do not like people working on my cars. I do not take my car to any mechanic who does not allow me in the bay, as a rule.

Let's see how it goes. I got a bunch of parts. I have taken out airbags and steering wheels before, so that does not concern me. I just located 4 matching 15" alloy wheels for $ 120, which I will put Firestone Winterforce snowies on them...

 

Going to look at a '98 V70 AWD 188k miles this afternoon. Rear shaft is disconnected. Transm was "rebuilt" a year ago, but now Warning light is flashing, although it shifts fine (!). Uses oil; seller says "he had mechanic check for compression and it was all good. PCV is suspected". It needs shocks.

He can let it go for $ 800.

 

Looked at a V70 on the weekend https://volvoforums.com/forum/showth...252#post250252.

Progress on "injured" 850:

Windshield got done for $ 180 cash at Safelite. They even added a trim piece which wasn't there. Why the previous owner took it out is beyond me. This moron did not leave anything untouched. Now it is nicely covering the satellite radio antenna wire.

For those of you in NYC replacing windshields -- make sure you get new Registration and Inspection Stickers (2 stickers). Old ones will be "mutilated" -- That's the term they use on Citation Tickets ($ 115 each). Number 2: make sure your Inspection sticker is toward the lower-left corner, while Registration sticker is next to it, towards the center. This is another $ 115 ticket for "improper display". Gotten them all....

I did some straightening of fenders / hood on the weekend. Installed the clockspring and the steering-wheel airbag. Now horn is finally working.

Changed out fancy Continentals into snowies.

I'll be doing the dash airbag, fix the Turbo gauge, and hopefully swap out the seatbelt units and Airbag module this weekend.

One advice on whoever removes the wheel -- it is actually better if removal of the airbag is done while car is running (of course if the airbag has already deployed). It is much easier to turn the wheel left and right. And pay attention to the Warning that right-side of airbag must be tightened first so that the horn works.

 

After the crash, car was pulling to the left. When I went to the tire shop to install studdable snowies (Ginslaved 185-65-15), saw that Front-left tire (Continental runflat, 205-55-16) was low. Sure enough, put air in it (36 psi, same as Front right) and pulling-to-the-left is gone. Alignment persisted evidently.

Another surprise -- fuel economy slightly went up with the snowies. Ginslaved snow tires are noisy but now the "jelly" feeling from the tire is gone. Water evacuation (and confidence) was great too. Sharp jarring is reduced as well. I like this tire.

Post-accident, I have driven the car short and long distance, low and high speed, and I really see no difference in handling and/or noises. Still the same car.

Yes, cosmetically, a few things are out of place. I noticed that the sunroof is raised by 3/8" above the roof-line. Although the car was hit on the left side, right-side front fender hit the the door, lip-to-lip. No damage is one, but passenger front Door wouldn't open. I pulled the fender forward so I could open it.

We'll see how more things look when I take off the fenders.

I would like to find another purple (Amethyst) Volvo as a donor. The closest one I found is in Erie, PA (about 8 hours from here). Plus they wanted too much money, e.g. $ 250 for a bumper cover, when I could buy a different color for $ 60 and paint it.

Although my bumper cover has the 2 fog lights, I will be getting a cover without the fog lights and install aftermarket lights. 1 fog light was smashed by previous owner and I had planned to install aftermarket anyways.

Depending on how things go, I am thinking of painting the car. It has some black spots on the roof. I thought they were debris, but upon closer examination it looks like discoloration.

 

I had already commited to buying the interior parts and windshield when I read your message.

I did a more under-the-skin examination today. The upper frame on the front left has crimpled in. The frame on the right-side has buckled out. Radiator support is 1/2" off side-to-side.

I tried to pull out today the left-side with come-alongs, but could only go so far. Actually shock towers no longer align with each other, yet the vehicle drives straight!!

There is adjustment on the hood -- I went max at it still sits on top of left fender. This in fact creates an unsafe condition, since the hood cannot close properly.

The only way is to have specialized shops straighten the frames, if it can be done. This makes no sense $-wise.

I already bought airbags/seatbealt unit and changed the windshield (about $ 400 cost), thinking it was repairable. Lesson learned -- do not attempt to buy any parts until the under-the-skin / frame damage is assessed.

This car will be sold and another wagon bought.

Hopefully someone else reads this before making the same mistake.