There are two different heights. PCV that is.

 

1996-1997 Volvo 850 PCV Breather System Kit

That's the one I bought. I have a 96 NA. Not sure why it had all this extra stuff...

 

Who knows. Seems like you ordered the right kit. Good thing you didn't have any missing parts. LOL

 

For real! I can always put extra vacuum line to good use! LOL

 

Hi Guys,

I recently got an oil leak on my XC70 D5 (2003). Diesel engine are more common here in France... It was finally the cam seal... cheap components but many hours to fix it... so expensive repair at the end...

By browsing all the websites, I have learnt a lot on this PCV system and I figured out this could be at the origin of my problem. I have then asked my garage to inspect the PCV system. (I had all the symptom including oil on top of my engine). They have cleaned the box and the hoses.

When I open the oil filler cap, while the engine is running at its minimum level, I still have some smoke escaping. but when I accelerate no more smoke and the oil filler cap is even sticking on the top of the engine. So when I press the pedal the vaccuum is there... My question is the following: shouldn't I have also vaccuum without accelerating?

If the answer is yes what should I control now?
I have seen this note (thanks to the writter of this great great great tutorial!) :
PCV Replacement

Do you think this could be the explanation? I presume the garage has controlled only the 2 main hoses on top of the PCV box, not this small port...

Any kind of suggestion?

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

If the vehicle has more than 100,000 miles (160,000 km) I think the system should be replaced. Not sure how often that is an issue with diesel motors but it is with the standard turbo cars.

 

Do you also have the depression under oilfiller cap while the engine is idle? or do you have to increase the engine speed to have it?

I have been told diesel engine are less sensitive to clogged PCV system... but my car has 180 000 km so how much less sensitive it is... that I do not know...

 

Engines produce idle 100% of the time unless at WOT or under boost. Unfortunately my 850 is NA so I dont know how much vacuum these engines draw out, but my Honda pulls about 25 in/hg at idle. At WOT it should read 0. Unless your engine is turbo, of course.

 

I need to replace my PCV per local Volvo mechanic. I get the exhaust/sulfur smell in the cabin when I accelerate hard. Will this take care of that smell? Did any of you guys have this problem before you replaced your PCV or were you just going off the symptoms of smoke from the dipstick and oil on top of the engine block? I do have those symptoms and I have read countless threads on this but haven't found any solid resolution for the odor other than cleaning the MAF sensor which I've done. I had the RMS sealed about 3,000 miles ago but that did not stop the smell.

 

I don't recall anyone saying the PCV job would tackle exhaust smells - I'm thinking there's a different problem. Are you throwing any codes? I'd check the DP and the exhaust manifold for holes.

If you did the RMS, you'll want to do the PCV ASAP, or you'll be doing the RMS all over again.

 

Wow! Why would someone do the RMS and not do the PCV system which likely caused the RMS leak in the first place. Be weary of that shop.

No exhaust smell in my car and my PCV was plugged up really bad. On top of that, I did NOT have the smoking dip stick (not sure if my car passed that stage). That could cause the problem. Leaking vacuum lines are likely the cause of cabin odors, that and oil leaks.

Replace the PCV, like yesterday. Before you blow some more seals and cause other problems. Then check for the odor. If it's still there, go to the next step. Chances are you are pulling in burnt oil.

 

YOU MIGHT HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THAT HOSE ! ! !
In your write up you mentioned the hose you used at your fuel pressure regulator. If you are not paying at least 4 or 5 dollars a foot it's most likely low pressure line. Right now I think it's going for around 6 or 7 bucks a foot depending on ID and supplier. You mentioned it was pretty cheap which is why I researched that SAE Spec. From what I can find it's low pressure fuel line. You either didn't ask for fuel injection fuel line or the parts person didn't ask which or cut you the wrong stuff.
SAE is a grade from the Society of Automotive Engineers and if you do indeed have 30R6KX it is low pressure as in carbureted. You need to replace it before it gets too old and too weak to hold the pressure. 30R6 is LOW pressure line and 30R7 is the designation for fuel injected or High pressure line. If you are not paying at least 4 or 5 dollars a foot it's most likely low pressure line. Right now I think it's going for around 5 or 7 bucks a foot depending on the size of the hose and supplier. The other thing is to make sure you use "fuel injection" hose clamps and not the regular worm screw style you use on coolant hoses. The FI clamps give a tighter more even grip on the hose without doing damage.
It's just one of those things. It might last years and it might go next week. I just wouldn't want to be in it if it lets go and the fuel hits the exhaust manifold.

 

Heck, I may have just installed lower pressure hose. Why would they sell low pressure hose unless you specifically ask for it seeing how most cars are fuel injected?

 

I didn't replace my RMS, just sealed up where it was leaking. I will report back with results and look into possible exhaust leaks.. My bank 1 O2 sensor is bad per OBDII codes, could this be a culprit?

 

I highly doubt a O2 sensor is causing odors. Do the PCV and maybe that will stop oil from spewing out of the motor.

 

just a thought
would it not be possible to drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the oil trap to drain and flush the container out with out having to dismantle half of the engine.my thought is pour a bit of sea foam down the "out tube" let it sit while doing the oil change, then drain the trap. do it each time the oil is changed and you should be golden.
whe i say drill and tap i mean that so you can screw in a plug that the pressure would not blow out.

thoughts from the masters please.
bd

 

So sense I am thinking about buying this kit from ipd in the near future because of my car has oil where the spark plugs are I have to ask what exactly does this pcv sytem do. When i do this repair is it going to helpmy engine last longer or is it just to stop it from leaking? If the leak is the only issue ill just buy extra oil lol(again i am new to this)

 

On most fuel injected vehicles the fuel delivery system is made up of metal and PLASTIC line. So....... usually when someone is asking for fuel line it's for their carbed whatever. Yes on some FI vehicles they have some rubber but they are rare. If you just walk into Acme auto parts and ask for fuel line, fuel line is what you'll get. It's just common to go get someone the regular low pressure, low cost stuff. When you are only asking for a foot it should make them question you but that's the difference between someone who has a job and someone who has a career.
You need to ask for fuel injection fuel line and the fuel injection clamps. Not all parts people are sharp enough to ask you what vehicle it's for or to offer you the better clamps.
Most of the newer low pressure hoses are rated to around 50psi so if you haven't sunk a larger fuel pump into the tank and you haven't put in that 4bar fuel pressure regulator you're just under the max, just. The issue is you have no safety and as the hose ages it breaks down and at some point its going to have a failure that is going to soak your engine in fuel and ignite before you even know what happened.
If in doubt, replace it !

 

You can start by cleaning the PCV AND the PTC nipple. It could solve your leak.

If you consider not to fix the PCV (clean or replace) and just to buy extra oil, be prepared to buy it in large quantity. It is starting to leak my the filler cap but sooner or later it will be throught the camshaft seal... and that another story to fix...

The PCV is actualling sucking the blow by gases back to the intake. It is creating a vaccuum in your oil pan. The oil filler cap should then sticky on its place. If you have oil around it means you have a light overpressure.

As far as I know the PTC nipple is used to heat the gases up to 80°C. This is helpful when engine is cold and this is avoiding blocage in the hose to to freezing condition. It has a calibrated hole to let a certain quantity of gas to go through it. It is sometimes called PTC valve but nothing moves in. It is not a real valve which could open or close.

 

Very doubtful. In my case, the ports on the block barely had any sludge in them. I think my hoses were clogged. IT's really not that bad of a job. Just get yourself a good quality wobble adapter and some extensions and you'll be ready to tackle the job. All you're taking off is the intake manifold...

Get the kit from fcpgroton and go to town.