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  #1  
Old 01-31-2006, 05:15 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
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Default Intake manifold removal

Hello, does anyone have good, clear insturctions for removing the intake manifold on a 1994? Preferably with pictures, as I am not very mechanical. I was removing the EGR for a good cleaning, and both bolts snapped off, remaining in the valve body.
Thanks
Jay
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  #2  
Old 01-31-2006, 10:01 AM
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Default RE: Intake manifold removal

I don't have pictures, but it's pretty easy to take off. First you need to remove the fuel rail then you will see the bolts holding on the intake manifold. Take the upper bolts out and just loosen the bottom bolts. I believe there is also a bolt underneath the manifold that has a bracket and is fastened to the block. Mine was broke off so I'm not certain about that one. I say loosen the top ones because the holes are slotted so you can just pick the manifold up off of them which makes it much easier to put back on with the new gasket. The only one hard to get to is the one next to the thermostat. Other than that it's pretty simple.
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2006, 02:03 PM
 
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Default RE: Intake manifold removal

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
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  #4  
Old 01-31-2006, 03:02 PM
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Default RE: Intake manifold removal

In reading my reply, I meant loosen the bottom bolts and remove the top ones. You'll see what I mean when you look at it.
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  #5  
Old 01-31-2006, 09:51 PM
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Default RE: Intake manifold removal


I just did this the past 2 weekends...expected a 4-6 hour job...got a 2 weekend job (had to order some parts inbetween). Ended up taking the manifold off and putting it on 6 or 7 times total. Learned a lot about what not to do though. Here's some tips i learned during the job.

First and foremost...check out the pinned post from VS...lots of pics which make a lot of sense when you're into it:
pcv replacement pics

Disconnect negative battery terminal first (second after reading the post...but it does mention that)...i got a nasty spark when going for one of the lower 12mm bolts... still not sure why but i learned my lesson. mad.gif

To disconnect the electrical connectors to the injectors first pull off the press fit sheilding piece. Just pull from the lip in the back of the cover towards the front of the car. It will pop off w/ a little gentle persuasion.

Before you pull the fuel rail, put a towel on top of the manifold so that if any injectors, spacer rings, O rings, etc.. fall, you'll catch them. After it's re-assembled...make sure you check for injector leaks from the rail or manifold. I almost had a very bad day due to that.

Disconnect the coolant line on the passenger side when going for the lower manifold bolt on that side. You can barely see it if you look from above. A U-Joint works wonders here (and on most the other lower 4 of 7 bolts).

Check all the vacuum hoses for splits and stuff while you're in there...if they're looking bad...replace them.

Get some regular hose clamps that you can tighen w/ a screwdriver or hex driver. I ordered the kit from FCP and got those other clamps... was never able to get them 'crimped' over the lines... Plus the normal ones allow you to loosen them easily to adjust if necessary.

While you have the manifold off....clean it up really good... i went through prolly 2 big cans of carb cleaner. Cover up the valve ports and clean on the block side... This seemed to make a huge improvement for me in respose time, power, etc...

When putting the manifold back on (or taking it off for that matter)...no need to totally take the 4 lower bolts out....manifold is slotted so you can put these in to help locate it. I lost about 3 of them trying to take them off then putting them back in blindly. After i learned it was slotted...takes 1 hour 15 minutes to tear down and re-assemble.

Get all 7 secured before going for the 2 lower ones (oil dipstick and bracket). They are both slotted so there's some room for postioning them.

For me, starting the EGR bolts were the toughest to thread back in. I found that Cranking down the manifold so there was little play helped (egr line is slightly flexible).

and for me...most important lesson was... The lower bracket on the driver side that shields the pcv lines goes on the OUTSIDE of the manifold. I screwed up and put it between the manifold and block the first time and took me a day to figure out why it wouldn't even idle on it's own.

2nd most important lesson...don't overtighen the bolts... i snapped the head off a fuel rail bolt. It was easy getting it back out (beginers luck). It still drove...but after the first time of almost burning my house down i was really sketchy about driving it.

I took a bunch of pics...and can post some if you have more questions.

Here's some random ones...although links will only work for the next month or so. if you want specific ones posted, lemme know and i'll put 'em up.
Random pics
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2006, 09:54 PM
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Default RE: Intake manifold removal

This may also help ya... I used this as my guide when doing the job. Credit to WhiteT5 On VS Forums

Quote:
Ok, for some reason, Volvo likes to overengineer things and the PCV system is one of those things. Now, what you'll want to do is look down at the fresh air intake pipe right before the turbo. You should see something like what is in this diagram. Now, unplug all of those lines and check for clogging and clean as necessary. Sometimes, those lines are all that get clogged and you get off easy by only having to clean them out. Usually though, the problem lies deeper. So, what you'll have to do is pull the intake manifold. You have a '95 model, which does have EGR, and makes the job a big pain in the neck. Now, what you'll want to start with is unhooking the intercooler hose that goes to the throttle body and you'll also want to loosen the bracket that holds the hard IC piping over the engine. Then there are several other hoses that must be detached from the intake manifold up front on the driver's side. One of them is the evap valve hose and one is the CBV hose. You'll then want to detach the hose from the Idle Air Control Valve, the silver cylindrical thing up near the manifold. That should cover all hoses that need to be removed. Next, you'll want to unbolt the dipstick tube from the manifold. This one is tough to get to b/c you have to do it from underneath the car using a combination of long ratchet reaches to access it. I believe it's a 12 mm bolt. You can then just rest the dipstick tube against the fan shroud once loose. Now back up top, you need to unhook the throttle linkage from the throttle pulley bracket using needle nose pliers. I forgot to mention, you have to take off the plastic throttle cover, which is held in by a torx screw (T25 I believe) to get to the throttle area. Alright, now you'll want to remove the throttle body, which is held in by four 10 mm bolts. If you're careful, you can re-use the TB (Throttle body) gasket that is already on there. Set the TB on the side. Then, you'll have to undo the EGR bolts. There are two 8 mm bolts holding the EGR diaphragm to the intake manifold. I will warn you now that accessing these things is a big headache, but it can be done. Once unbolted, the rest of the EGR assembly will just sit in the engine bay. Now, to take the intake manifold off: I believe there are seven 10 mm bolts actually holding the manifold into the head. There is also a bracket down below that is tough to see that has to be unbolted as well. You can re-use the manifold gasket if you want. Once pulled, you'll see a squarish black box on the passenger side (the rectangular black plastic thing on the driver's side is the starter). That box is the oil trap and is usually what gets clogged. It is usually replaced with a new part, which costs about $30 at the dealer. You'll want to remove all hoses going to it and verify that they're clear by blowing through them. Here is a complete diagram of the PCV system and it's parts. It would also be a good idea to clean up the knock sensor connections while you have the manifold pulled. They're the two little black things with electrical plug-ins. Re-assembly is opposite of disassembly.

Good question. You will need to move the fuel rail out of the way. To do this, you'll want to first remove the bracket that holds the lines to the block. Just follow the lines back and you'll find it. Then you'll need to remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the rail to the manifold. I should note that before you go any further, the negative terminal of the battery should be removed and nowhere near the post. Sparks could cause BIG problems. Then disconnect the electrical connections from each of the fuel injectors. You can then pull upward w/ some force and the rail and injectors should come loose. A bit of fuel will come out; don't be alarmed. There is only a small amount and it can be wiped up with a shop rag. Be careful not to lose any of the injector o-rings. I'd suggest setting the injectors aside until it's time for re-assembly simply for the sake of cleanliness. You can wrap the rail in a towel (for cleanliness) and rest it on top of the spark plug cover. Be careful when replacing the injectors back in the rail and the rail back into the manifold as the plastic around the needle is brittle. Also, FYI, the rail can be removed in place w/ the manifold, but I wouldn't recommend it b/c the soft hoses connecting the hard fuel pipes is very brittle and often cracking on many 850's that I've seen.
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2006, 12:31 AM
 
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Default RE: Intake manifold removal

Thanks for all the tips guys.
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Old 02-09-2006, 12:31 AM
 
 
 
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1994, 2000, 240, 850, air, intake, lower, manifold, removal, remove, s80, steps, v70, volve, volvo


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