I had a thread on here a few weeks ago about getting my car started. Well that was finally a success, I've driven the car about 450 miles in the past week to diagnose things as they broke ha.. The car just recently started making this awful knocking noise, which was not happening for the first 449 miles! (Note I just changed the oil right after getting it started, and the level is right where it should be- also I didn't realize that 10W 30 is better for the car, but I used 10W 40, don't think that would cause knocking but I wanted to make note of it) I don't know if it is safe to drive the car like normal or not. There is really no difference in performance that I can tell at all.. I know these cars are known for ticking, clacking, and knocking.. its coming right from the top of the engine and from my research of forums, I'm thinking it to be a lifter? Let me try to explain the noise.. in words..
It's definitely a knocking sound, it's not the fast light clicking sound, I know that can be normal. It happens about 90% of the time I drive the car, not so much right after the start up, but especially after driving around.. I used a Volvo appropriate oil filter as I know that causes temporary clacking. The sound goes right along with the RPM's of the engine, from speeds zero to whatever, all the time.. If I still had my studio mics I would love to record a Volvo clicking and clacking sound collection because it's really hard to describe.. haha but if I didn't do a good job at explaining let me know I will gladly supply more info..

Just a note: I've read about this problem being noisy lifters due to low oil pressure, however my oil pressure light is not on. I saw a few posts where guys have replaced the oil pan o-rings and it didn't fix anything. That's a pretty big job to have no success, makes me nervous! Let me know what you guys think, I may get a video of it for you later tonight on a Nikon D5100, we'll see how that works out!


EDIT: VIDEO-

 

Could be rod knock....
noisy lifters is more of a tap

Upload a video to youtube and we will be able to help easier

 

Could also be a burnt/damaged exhaust valve.

 

these engines can sound like diesels after they get a good number of miles on them. Just run 20w-50 and see what that does.

If the "knocking" started right after you changed the oil. Make sure you put oil in the engine. You can take off the oil filter and pour it out and look for metal fillings -- a magnet works best.

I really doubt a rod if you changed the oil regularly. A lifter perhaps, but that can easily be solved running 20w-50.

I recommend 20w50 in engines that have over 250k miles.

 

Ive run 20w 50 since day one when I took delivery of the car with .2 miles on it...

with regular maintenance I am at 438,000 and the motor is quiet as can be aside for some noisy lifters at 7000 rpms, but as soon as I drop the oil pan and replace the o-rings that will no longer happen.

As far as the rod knock goes, Ive seen people spin a bearing by being too rough (not really rough, but out of the ordinary other than its daily abuse) on it, just ask tech

all it takes is a little too much foot and your in for a motor build.

and PS that light on your dash only comes on when its too late

from what I gather your not the original owner, and this is a new car for you?

But if it is a lifter, Id dump a half of a can of sea foam right in the oil... drive it for 30 to 50 miles and do another oil change.. you will be surprised at what comes out.
These motors have thier quirks and it takes a little to get to know them (a little money too) but once you do you will be able to hear a noise and know exactly what you need to do.

 

You are correct about me not being the original owner. I've always loved these cars from childhood and I was looking forward to the day I got to own one for myself.. I previously owned a 94' 850 5-Speed Wagon which didn't give me a single issue the whole year I owned it.. but that wasn't enough for me because I really wanted a Turbo. I found this car cheap and fixed it up, I can tell that minimal maintenance was done to the car.. I have no idea if the car was abused, if the oil was changed enough, or anything. The car only has 131k miles and the odometer is still working well. I'm pretty confident this is a rod knock though, if it is, I'm really in trouble! I know how to take care of a car pretty well, but I'm not sure what it would be like for me to take this engine apart.. hopefully this video will help, I'll have it up in a few minutes

 

dang l have the same problem.mine knocks all the time and louder when it gets warm.the knocking on mine gets less louder when l increase the RPM.l dropped the oil pan everything was still in good shape.in my next oil change l am going to add some GUNK engine flash and change my oil with 15w-40 oil and see if that helps.if that doesnt help l will change my lifter.l would do same if l was you.it sounds like your engine needs cleaning because its gummed up.if that doesnt help you might as well have to change the lifters. let me ask you does it knock all the time?cold or warm?

 

Ouch!!! Not sure what the sound is but it sounds like something is loose in there bouncing around. My guess would be a bad valve but let some other's chime in.

If you can, do a compression test.
Compression Test - Volvo S70 GLT, 1998

 

Oooh, that made me cringe. I think you should spend a couple bucks and get a automotive stethescope to pinpoint where its coming from. It really sounds like a rod but hard to tell in a video where exactly the noise is coming from.

 

you have a valve tap, but thats the least of your worries..
Thats either a valve like RSPI said, or a piston (or pin), or spun bearing on the rod.. (sounds like a rod to me)

Looks like its time to crack her open.. sorry for the bad news..

But on the upside... if you have to tear apart the motor build it up...
and luckily for you there are a couple guys doing motor builds at this time... Boxpin being one of them... What ever they are doing, i would do, as a matter of fact im waiting for boxpin to start his build thread... hint hint

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOO that is the worst thing to do... it like putting a wet bandaid on a severed limb... it will slow down the bleeding but make it worse in the long run..

 

@ matt.really? so l shouldnt gunk my engine you mean? my dealer recommended a gunk engine flush to help with my lifter noise. so l thought that may lovevolvos trying that might help with his knocking noise

 

His knock is way passed additives..
If you have significant lifter noise, you either have low oil pressure or a bad lifter.
Typically sticky lifter tapping will go away once oil pressure increases or the lifters get primed..

But all those motor honey, gunk treatment, and such are just band aid solutions they dont fix anything they just mask it for a little while.

If you want to clean up your motor from sludge and such use a quart of trans fluid, or you can always use sea foam(mineral spirits and alcohol)

 

... Well... I'm still a little speechless! It all happened so fast. I'm trying to look on the bright side of things here, the glass should be half full. I'm very fortunate to have a backup car to drive, our old reliable 96' 960 PURPLE Wagon. It was my first car, which was also my first engine swap project.. I have a game plan here. At first I though about how awful this whole circumstance is.. BUT.. this is my perfect excuse for some upgrading time PLUS, my 5-speed tranny swap!

MASTER PLAN:

1. Buy a good working engine (easy to come by from where I live range $400-$600.
2. Take my 5-speed tranny and get that all setup.
3. New exhaust.
4. Evaluate my turbocharger, possibly upgrade.. haven't done enough research on that to know the benefits yet. Upgrade all parts that are easier accessible without an engine in the car.. ha
5. Slowly take apart the faulty engine, fix the problems and rebuild it.
6. Find an 850 in good condition that is in need of a new engine and have another working 850 to sell.

Just thoughts so far.. any suggestions from anyone else if you were in my shoes?

 

Slim, I'm surprised that you still listen to anything "YOUR DEALER" has to say. They are the ones that sold you the car with the ticking lifter in the first place, telling you that "it's normal". While you're adding stuff, toss a 1/2 cup of saw dust in the crank case and sell the thing to someone before the noise comes back.

@LOVEVolvo: Sounds like a plan. Let us know how things work out. Sorry to hear your motor sound. Please do post back with the diognostic when you find out what that awful sound is. Oh, I wish I had a 960 again.

 

@RSPI my dealer told me of this a while ago even before l came on this forum.just havent tried it yet.l am not listening to them.l am just giving my opinion to lovevolvos and see if that works out for him because l have read good reviews on it.thats what yall do on this site.share ideas. but it looks like people on this forum dont recommend it. am just saying what l know of and try to help out.nothing else. also dont worry l will toss a cup of saw dust into my engine. thanks for you opinion.SMH

 

@LOVEVolvo: I think thats the best plan.

Since you are going to be replacing the engine would you mind doing a little experiment? I have recovered three engines with horrible tapping lifters by adding ATF to the oil and running the engine. Not driving but idling with small revs. I swear by it and would like others to see the result. Here are my examples:

First: My current engine for one was so bad it sounded like it was actually going to fall apart. Literally explode, it was scary. ATF and several times bringing the engine up to temp over a few days and today it purs like a kitten and runs 13 second 1/4 miles.
Second: Volvo engine was a flip, did the same thing. Cleared it up.
Third: was another Volvo added to the family Volvo fleet (now have 3). Replaced the head and it tapped really loud. Added the ATF and this time Seafoam as well. It purs now.

All three recovered by adding ATF. Of course it was drained and replaced after the problem was gone.

Listening to your video I can hear the problem your reporting but also a great deal of valve tapping. Since your going to be replacing the engine would you mind adding one quart of ATF and one bottle of Seafoam to it? Its not going to hurt anything but it will answer many questions. Questions like...will it fix your issue?? Would be nice and I doubt it but who knows until you try. Will it silence the tapping valves??? who knows unless you try. It would be a great service to the Volvo forum. I make no promises that it will correct anything but we dont get opportunities like this very often. I'll even paypal you $10 to try it.

@MattyXXL: I picked up the H-beam rods and clutch from Performance Cryogenics yesterday. Ya, i am giving the freeze method a try. Dunno if it will do anything but it was relatively cheap. I might start a build thread, just dont know if anyone is interested since all I am really doing is re-bearing it, adding the rods, new rings and a 19T.

 

@lovevolvos l forgot to tell you about what boxpin just posted. try what he just said and see what happens.ATF has strong detergents that helps clean stuck lifters.Boxpin asked me to try that and l did but unfortunately it did not solve my problem because l think l have a broken or a bad lifter.mine doesnt sound like that but try Boxpins opinion it might help with that knocking.l have read good reviews on adding ATF to you engine to free up stuffs.Good luck and hope this helps.

 

@ Boxpin: Do you think you could get better times with a AWD if you don't spin tires at launch? 18T or 19T with the other mods you have?

 

Sorry, but the engines ****ed.


Signature rod bearing. have to use the stethoscope to pin point which one.

Don't bother rebuilding/ repairing your engine. They are very common.

What you may want to do is to find a straight replacment engine, or a higher stock performance engine; and get that for the time being. Meanwhile the trash engine take your time building it, and crunching the numbers to get the most power out of it.

For the spare engine to get 400% more power out of it just takes time and $$$$.

I have built many race engines before, mostly for the roundy roundy cars, but a couple for the street. Got 456 BHP out of a Ford 2.3 Ford Ranger engine. It was turbo charged 17 PSI went into a track car. Took 8 months and cost the customer ~$5,000. It won its first season.

Point saying BOT here. don't bother running the engine any more. Its toast. Actually running it any longer you might destroy the block.

--My 2 cents.