I'll trust your guidance instead, you are available for help if need be. Is there a walkthrough for dropping the subframe? Is this in the Haynes manual if I buy one? Does Bentley make a manual? It seems like dropping the subframe (front) is the most important/hardest part, but once that is done it's a few bolts to get the outer part of the transmission. =)

 

As long as the engine and trans is supported then you would just remove the 2 front subframe bolts and loosen the rear ones slightly.
Also a couple of screws for the engine harness to subframe. Then the lower torque mount. Also the front engine mount.

 

Is this outlined in any shop manual/haynes/bentley or any picture based walkthroughs on this or any other forum? Thank you for telling me the target areas.

 

Hey tech...
Could a grounding problem cause this as well? Not used to the idea of tranny being electronically controlled, but it seems I should clean and check all the grounds I can find. Are these illustrated well in the Haynes, or perhaps we have a few pics online?

I ordered SL, S1, and S2...

I read an approach that says
"What you need to do is remove the oil pan. The VADIS procedure calls for dropping the subframe but it sure looks to me like the pan can be removed without doing that. Unlike most transmissions the pan is on the front of the transmission rather than the bottom. My guess is that if you pull the battery and the battery tray (Radio Code!) you can get to the upper bolts and then the lower bolts from under the car it will come off.

Once off it is a matter of unbolting and bolting the solenoids. With the subframe out they are right in front of you, with the subframe in I think it will be a tad trickier but it looks to me like it can be done without a lot of grief.
"
I like theapproach of removing the oil pan and battery+tray... you would think Volvo would make that the standard way vs. 4hrs for the subframe...

I like that... a lot... especially with the lift access I can have... and if I go to north NJ there is a parts cleaner I can use too... =) The rest of the procedure has the very specific directions on using RTV sealant (it looks like) and how to properly apply it and close it all up.

Then again, electrical! I should review all the grounds (would like pic or to know if I buy a Haynes it will outline them, usually it doesn't explicitly have a page showing all at once... though I will buy one anyway, wth)... I can always send the Solenoids back... they set me back a bit =(

SL $145
S1 and S2 $75 each.
FCPGroton.

 

I have the Vadis program but can't pull the info off of it.
If I had a scanner I could get you all the info.
The only way I could get it to you was to print it out and either send it to you or take pictures and e-mail it to you.

Where in N.J. are you?

 

Where ever you want me to be if you're offering to make a little money on the side =)

Right now I am near Plymouth Meeting, PA - so I could drive to Cherry Hill area fairly painlessly.

My parents house is in more northern NJ, Morristown/Morris County area... I can pay in cash or beer or whatever you likes if that was an offer... =)

 

I aksed about N.J. because I used to live there.
Now I am in Orlando Florida.

I will have to try to get the way to do it and get it to you.

 

I have an idea.

Pull up the image.

Press the 'PrtScn' button once

Start->Run->mspaint (type it in there)

Edit->Paste

Save it as a Jpeg, put it on the desktop and attach/email me. If you can do that I'd keep it and host it for everyone to see!

p3

 

I got that to somewhat work a little off center.
Pm me with your E-mail and I will try to send tomorrow night.

 

Finally saw my car getting worked on at the mechanics... looks like he had the special volvo engine lift it off the motor mounts tool. Oh boy. =)
Just getting ready for 'I replaced all three solenoids and you still have the problem' and I pay out the nose and then go to Volvo and they say bad trans ground... =D
=)

(tech, I printed out the offer centers and gave them to my mechanic to use, looks like he went that route as per the tool above!)

 

Let me know how it goes.

 

Ugh. Mechanic has not really started yet, only took some minor things out, he says next week some time. I am in need of a car for my fiance to drive (though I don't want her to flog it in it's current state), so he said he can button it up pretty quick and I can take it today. Two questions

1) Should I schedule with the Volvo dealer (or transmission place) and ask them to do the solenoid test (I read you can test the actual solenoids in the PDF but it requirs the Volvo Scan Tool) and ask them to test it? See what they quote me? =(
2) Can damage be done to it by my fiance driving it as it? Should I have her put it into neutral when coming to stop and go to 1st, 3rd, and drive in order, or just leave it in drive and let the car beat up on itself? Is damage being done or is it just sounding/feeling worse than it is? =( Have not had a chance to drive it with the 'new' pnp in there... but mechanic said it was the same.

Advice appreciated.

 

This is exactly why 98% of the cars in my country have manual transmission. When the auto tranny acts up, prepare your wallet.

 

I'm sorry your country is so poor. heh, KIDDING. Yes I prefer manual trans, but 850Turbo (95) didn't even have manual as an option, and this is a 'third' car for my fiance and I to drive depending on weather/primaries are in for repair.
=)

Would appreciate input more relevent to the questions asked.

 

I can become your fiance and you can buy methe 4th car, preferably another 850R[8D].


JPN

 

Evetually it will do damage.
If it is only for a few days you should be fine.
Most tranny shops wont have the VST.
Most Dealers will only want you to buy a new tranny.

 

Thanks for the honest reply tech. Unfortunately the 'dealer' (used car salesman) I bought it from has driven it like this for at least 2k miles.. .(ugh, needed an oil change really badly too, a~hole). Anyway, I have not been driving it much, and never in drive really, just manually shifting through, making sure the engine doesn't lug, etc. It feels 'good' when it's in the right gear, and does shift correctly every now and then...

I found a good looking dealer near by. I am going to schedule a service where I specifically asked them to diagnose the transmission, tcu, and S1, S2, and SL solenoids - Suspect torque converter lockup solenoid failure. So we'll see what they say. No way they can charge more than one hour, I have the pdf for doing the tests, it doesn't take long.

=)

 

Keep me posted on how it goes.

 

Yes, that is true, but even most people that have money don't want auto tranny due to the cost of repairs.

 

Tech - The Volvo dealer basically stated (after not getting any codes, which I was already checking for) that replacing the solenoids was trouble/waste of money/just going to bite 'us' in the end, and just not interested in doing it. After a little more talking, it's $1250 to replace the tranny if I supply my own, with of course no gaurentee. I found a tranny deal locally that I am going to move on I think (70k, with torque converter, $250 shipped to my location). Want to see how much my local guy wants to put it in... =)

Now I wonder if I can send back the solenoids I bought from fcpgroton, according to their return policy, it may be either 'up to' 20% restocking fee, or 'NO'. =(