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  #11  
Old 01-02-2009, 07:43 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 36
Default RE: Replacing Radiator How Difficult?

rrochell8,
Did you get your O-ring(s) and replacement snap ring(s) from fcpgroton.com?
They carry turbo oil cooler hose clamp/seal kit for $19.95 and I was just curious if you purchased 2 of these kits for the job. Or from a local auto part store!

Seems to me you are a pro, I've never messed with A/C system 'cause I do not have freon recovery system. Good that you can take care of just about everything. I do what I can within my capacity and leave the rest to a pro like yourself.

Good day,
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2011, 07:48 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
Default how to replace your radiator guide

Its not that difficult and basically the same process in every car.

I've attached a how to guide that really helped me first time around. Since then I've done the job for several of my family and friends in many different cars.

hope it helps out.

File name: ebook_-_radiator_replace.pdf File size: 1.24 MB
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2011, 02:19 PM
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1996 Volvo 960
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Default

I replaced the radiator in my '96 volvo 960 yesterday. It was pretty straightforward using a replacement unit from Autozone at $184. Some patience was required finding all of the fasteners on the plastic shrouds (e.g. the fan and scoop under the radiator). The auto trans lines didn't match up exactly, and I had to tweek them a little. This is not necessarily a good idea, and I am a little concerned that the strain may cause them to fatique and crack eventually. The system holds about 2.5 gallons of coolant, so be prepared to catch it all.

The fittings for the trans lines are pretty tight, and one must be carefull wrenching on the plastic tank. I used two wrenches on the two fittings (boss and inserrt), slightly offset so I could squeeze them together to apply the torque. Good luck.

I did not drain any trans fluid, it did not loose much, and I will just top it off eventually.

It took me about 6 hours, but I was in no hurry, and had to fight with the trans lines. No leaks today.
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  #14  
Old 10-31-2011, 03:52 PM
Junior Member
1998 Volvo S70
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 17
Default

as far as changing the o rings on the auto transmission line, I can't think of where the two little green round gaskets per line go (one is slightly larger in thickness). I didn't pull any off with the old radiator except the clear squared edged gasket around the line.
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2012, 02:52 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
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Hi EVeryone
I have a non-turbo '96 850 (2.4L) and the radiator is cracked. I have a few questions, the most rudimentary of which being:
Q: What size wrench/ratchet head do I need to remove the bolts holding the radiator to its mounts?
- All the bolts in and around the engine and its enclosure seem to be the same size but I..Dont..Know..What.Size.It.Is.. and none of my wrenches or ratchet heads fit, so I cant get it off.

Other Question: I crashed it so... I BASICALLY JUST WANT EVERYONE'S OPINION: DO YOU THINK IT WILL RUN AGAIN OR NOT? (read below for details)

**(Now, I realize there are a lot of words here, but,) PLEASE READ THIS INFO (below) FIRST IF YOU WANT TO HELP AND ANSWER (accurately).

**THANKS TO ANYONE WHO RESPONDS!

The Story
;
I wrecked my '96 850 into a tree in a snowstorm in Denver, it still ran but looked atrocious and was nowhere near street legal... I tried not to but I still drove it a few times with the radiator cracked (its a BIG crack)... When i did have to drive I tried to keep the temp down by making my trips in the car short as hell with the engine in neutral or off as much as possible. And i put water into it trying to cool it every chance I got.. it just drained out within seconds maybe minutes every time tho. I drove it like this 7 times max, not far - est. 2 miles each (or less) First few times, she started right up, but got more and more resistant every time.. finally she could only be jumped.. once it was jumped it was drive-able tho and that was the last time it was runiing so im hoping its still ok..

QUESTION BEING: How much damage does everyone think I did? AND, If I buy a new radiator (and battery) could it run again?

More info:
The last time I drove it, it died right outside where I was going and, unable to start it, I took the bus home. I waited a day then went back, jumped it (with great difficulty) and from then it sat in my garage for almost a month. I couldn't take the battery out cuz the hood was stuck shut so that's dead and gone too. The hood was only latched in one place but i still couldnt open it so i was gonna scrap it.. a few days ago i found this blog and got the thing open! Now im inspired and I wanna get it running and driveable again.. DO YOU THINK ITS POSSIBLE? It ran after it crashed but idk how much damage i did driving it around without proper cooling (it was cold as $H*T outside tho)

TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK THANKS!
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  #16  
Old 03-02-2012, 06:53 AM
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2000 Volvo S70
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 537
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sounds to me the starting problem is just a bad battery. As long as you didn't peg the arm for the temp gauge, should be fine.

What you will have to do first though is put a new battery in and replace the radiator before you can find other possible damage. Like A/C condenser leak, EVAP leaks, ect.

12MM answer to your question., oh and T-25 is the torx. I could do these things in my sleep. Remember to be sure to move all mounting tabs and the grommets over to the new radiator.
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2012, 03:11 PM
Junior Member
1996 Volvo 960
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
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I bought an aftermarket radiator from Autozone for about $200 for my 960. The new one started leaking at the seam after two months. I had a volvo dealer install the OEM last week for $ 600. Not sure I will get my $200 back, but I didn not have time to do the job over again with a questionable replacement part. If I were to do it again, I would go with the maunufacturers part for an extra $100 and do the install myself. Hope this helps.
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2012, 03:51 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
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Thanks everyone for your help. New question..
I have until recently been under the impression that the radiator is metal. Its not, its plastic. Idk if it was replaced that way or what but its plastic. It cracked on impact where its mounted on the passenger side, nothing else is damages as far as I can tell. Question being: can i possibly just JB weld the thing back together and forgo re-mounting it on the passenger side to avoid breaking it again? This obviously would not be a permanent fix but just to get back and forth to school (maybe 2 miles) once a day until I can afford a new radiator? The new battery is gonna cost me at least $100 which i was not expecting (is a used one even an option???) so the financial damage increased significantly and i cant afford both right this minute. Im using my girls car right now to make the drive, which she is being a saint about, but i know shes not happy about it. I really want this thing to just run again.. who thinks what?
thanks again this forum has helped me so much its unbelievable.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2012, 07:48 PM
Senior Member
2000 Volvo S70
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 537
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mmmm. I guess you could try to repair it. I would not use JB weld. I would use some plastic epoxy.

Keep in mind pressure the radiator holds at operating temp is 13 PSI (13 times normal atmosphere) Which is frankly a lot. If the repair will hold I do not know.

have you tried calling junk yards to see if they have any good used ones?
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  #20  
Old 03-14-2012, 04:55 PM
Kiss4aFrog's Avatar
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1995 Volvo 850
My Garage
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hudson, WI
Posts: 3,807
Default

Their words, not mine.
Everything needed to repair cracks and holes in tanks and housing. Gas or diesel fuel tanks, oil pans, transmission housing, radiators, reservoirs, portable tanks. No need to drain tank.

I'd look for something made by 3M or Permatex as I have more experience with their other products. I haven't used a radiator patch, I've always just replaced them. If I was going to use it I'd rough up the area with some sand paper to give it a better chance at a "bite" and I'd make sure it was clean and dry. They say you don't need to drain but I'd drain it below the crack before attempting to apply. It's cheap insurance you'll get the best results you can. They sell kits for repairing radiators at auto parts stores.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Heat & AC radiator repair epoxy.jpg (71.0 KB, 9 views)
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'95 850 Wagon, 2.3 Turbo, auto, 298K mine since 254K
OBX angled turbo back, 55psi FPR, MSD coil, AC Delco Plat plugs, Delco BCS, -1.5" sport springs, Bilstein/KYB, 25% E85 mix.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:55 PM
 
 
 
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850, 96, change, leak, nonturbo, oil, radiator, removal, remove, removed, return, top, turbo, v70, volvo


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