I have a 1995 850 turbo and I was wondering...Let's say I find a turbocharger out of a T-5. Can the T-5 turbo just "bolt on" in place of the old one or do I need special fittings and a ECU swap?

Thanks

 

The 1995 Turbo is a T5, not a LPT (193 hp).

If you try to install a LPT it is not possible without remapping. This is because the LPT and HPT engines are different (2.5 vs 2.3) and also different injectors and so on.
From T5 to T5 it fits without any changes.

 

I'm not sure if it's an LPT or HPT. I'll have to check the VIN. I just got it yesterday and already I'm trying to tinker with it. So from LPT to HPT isn't just an even swap.

Think I'll stick with stock.

Thanks.

 

If its a 95 then its a HPT and you can swap it out. What Scutyde is saying is that the HPT's came with a TD04-15G and the LPT's came with a TD04-13t. They use different turbos.

 

The turbo in my AWD is leaking oil, I have yet to pull it out and determine from where. If it should be internal, do these factory rebuild kits from Mitsubishi cover the internal components for the LPT (TD04-13t) models?

Turbo Repair KIT Genuine Mitsubishi TD04 10T 12T 13T 14 | eBay

 

Right, if he has a 95 then he doesn't have to worry about it. They only came with a HPT. 97 is when they came out with the LPT. Any turbo pre-97 is a HPT.

 

The kit should consist of these parts and is everything you need for a normal rebuild.

Have you done one or have you read full instructions on rebuilding one ??

TD04HL Turbo rebuild kit (Super back)

http://dproberts.files.wordpress.com...ild_manual.pdf

There is also youtube.

Are you aware what a superback is ??

You want to pay attention to the part of the instructions on marking the wheel for reassembly or know where and how much $$$ you'll spend on balancing.

You also want to have the info off the data plate on the turbo so know exactly what turbo you have.

On the "oil drain tube to block" O ring, seal or whatever you want to call it, get the green one if possible. A number of people complain the basic black one doesn't hold up well but the green ones do.



Then if you're going to rebuild you should try to get rid of the conical exhaust housing. It's the most restrictive and it's the only one that is "conical" in shape and none of the aftermarket performance exhausts or downpipes will fit it. They all come to fit either the straight or angled.

This is NOT a consideration if you're just doing a rebuild and intend on keeping the exhaust stock.

 

Gents, sorry to hijack this thread (again), my forum manners clearly need some work.

It seems as tho the turbo in my 850 AWD (13t if I'm not mistaken) has packed it in. I'm getting oil leaking out of my intercooler, very little boost and a generally ****ty attitude from my engine. There is an S70 in the local wreckers that I'm considering for a turbo donor, how can I go about checking the VIN to see if it is also a 13t?

Being as this is the time to replace the turbo, I'd love to see if there was an optional upgrade, but am not willing to replace the exhaust system as the downpipe does this funky S bend and costs somewhere in the neighbourhood of a grand. Am I correct in thinking that the downpipe will have to be changed in order to accept a 15t (or larger)?

 

What year 850 AWD ??? What year S70 ??? The fact you're asking what fits what should make you sensitive to the fact that the parts change and you need to be more specific about what you're asking.

On an older car you need to check the turbo itself. The VIN will tell you what it came from the factory with but won't tell you what is presently on it. It's likely to be stock but there are a number of us that have upgraded our turbos. Someone thinking it's a 15 with a conical would be surprised to find a 19s inducer under the aftermarket intake side with an angled exhaust housing. You need to read the numbers off the turbo ID tag itself to be sure what it is you have.

The downpipe can be picked up off ebay in stainless steel for around 150 bucks. People who buy the OBD system get both a straight and angled downpipe so they usually toss the extra one up on line to make some $$$

The 95 turbo has a different turbo housing fitting called conical because it is like a ball. The other two more common ones are straight and angled. Both are bigger and flow more air easier then the conical.

The exhaust housings are interchangeable.

 

You're right, I needed to put a little more care and attention into that post, apologies. The 850 that I own is a '97, and the S70 in the wreckers is a '98 GLT. I'm going to have a poke through the S70 today, but considering the weather I won't be able to spend the time to pull the turbo before becoming an icicle.

The downpipe on the AWD is different than the FWD (and I have only looked into this a small amount and looked under my car to verify) due to the exhaust being routed around the transaxle. See the first page of the AWD thread here. EuroSport Tuning no longer carries it, and I couldn't justify the price anyhow.

Now that I'm rereading the information I collected, I see that the turbo in my 850 is a 13G and not a 13T. This Mitsubishi Stealth/3000GT page is quoted a lot when talking about these turbos, and indicates that the 13T flows more closely to a 15G or 15C and could be considered a higher performance model.

I'm glad to hear that conical nonsense was only on the '95s, and I hopefully won't have to deal with it. I'm going to find out from the wreckers what they charge for a turbo as well, as all of the above models that I have mentioned are available used on ebay for what seem like reasonable prices.

When you say that the exhaust housings are interchangeable, do you mean in general or within a group? For example, the straight exhaust housing from a 13G will fit an angled exhaust housing from a 13G but not a 13T?

 

And thank you for pointing out the AWD. I forgot they do have a different downpipe to clear the extra gear under there

That would make you have to go to a muffler shop or a welder to fabricate you something and that would be more $$$.

Were you looking to upgrade or just replace your turbo ?? Have you considered rebuilding the one you have ??

If you haven't seen this, info on different modifications including turbo info.

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/sh...ad.php?t=10961

 

I am considering three options right now, and I need to do a little more research and get my hands dirty before the clear winner emerges.

Option 1: Rebuild the existing turbo. I will likely go this route if when I take apart the turbo it appears the blades are in good shape. This is the least expensive option if everything goes well, and will teach me the most about the internals of a turbo as I have never had one apart.

Option 2: Get a turbo from the wreckers. This involves the most work, is the second most expensive option and has the most probability of becoming a headache. The replacement turbo may fail which would result in me having to rebuild anyhow.

Option 3: Buy an upgrade turbo from eBay. This is the most expensive option but would allow me to choose exactly what I want based on research. I'll probably buy a used one, which means it could also fail and result in me having to rebuild it

So I suppose that leads to the question, if option 3 then how far up the boost chain do I go? From what I understand the engine electronics will cut the ignition if I go above 13 psi, so it seems like if I am going to upgrade on a budget the 13T is the best option.

Yes I have seen that info from TurboBricks, very insightful and the suggestion at the bottom of the page for a streetable setup looks very intriguing. Truth be told though, I don't see this particular 850 being a candidate for that kind of upgrade, being as it is currently a stock LPT and I have other financial and time commitments at the moment. This car will stay pretty close to stock as it is already quite expensive to maintain for me, and I think the max boost I will attempt to eek out of it will be in the 10-12 psi range.

 

Half the turbo came out this evening.

I suppose there isn't normally scale built up on the turbine like that, and has probably made the whole deal very unballanced.

There is some up/down play in the shaft. Also, looks like the factory 13G turbo based on the name plate, and is the 'superback' style as previously mentioned.

 

That can definately cause a bit of an unbalance and make the bearings go out sooner than they should.

 

Thats the whole turbo

 

There is still one exhaust manifold bolt holding the turbine housing securely in place, not much room to manoeuvre a wrench in there on the AWD, even with the 'whole' turbo removed as you said haha.

 

A 15g would even net you a little extra. I'm burning both my front tires off with a factory conical flange 15g in a '95 sedan. If you want much more performance, you'll want to swap the ECU for a tuned one. The guys over on Volvospeed have tuning on a roll for that extra bit. However, if you don't want to squeeze anymore out of it for the sake of reliability, the 15g turbo from the HPT cars would work very well at 10-12PSI or so and you could keep your factory turbine housing and exhaust. That would bump up the power a decent amount. Not so much that you'd break things but enough to have fun with. Just gotta remember that the LPT cars have a higher compression ratio so you don't want to go overboard with the boost. Honestly, 10-12 might even be a little much in your case.

 

Thats just the exhaust housing and can stay there. The 'Turbo' is out. What you have is a TD04-xxx. The TD04 stands for the exhaust housing size. You can put any other TD04 turbo in that housing. The housing does not need to come out of the car. If you got the turbo out and left the housing there...thats fine.

 

So I decided on Option 3, and purchased a 13T from eBay. I have both turbos on the bench right now, and am cherry picking the external components.

One thing I noticed about the eBay turbo is that it has oil residue on the compressor, similar to the 13G I just pulled out. I read this post suggesting the oil could have come from the PCV on whatever car it was pulled off :

Turbine Turmoil: Your Volvo’s Turbocharger | FCP Euro

What do you think the chances are this turbo will also be shot, and puke oil all over? There is no in/out play, and the up/down is minimal (as they say).

Also, am I correct in thinking the baseline wastegate pressure for a 13T is 1.8 PSI?

 

If you have it out and in you hands there NOW is the time to put in a rebuild kit and know it's all good rather than put it in "used" and wonder if it's going to be leaking oil or ???

They are easy enough to rebuild and the off brand kits are as cheap as 55 bucks, a good Mitsubishi kit is about 100.

Watch a couple youtube videos on rebuilding and just figure out if you think you need to have it balanced or if you'll be able to keep any "timing" marks you put on it lined up during reassembly. Be careful of the shaft nuts as they don't take much torque and they are reverse threaded.