Where do I jack my car up? Do I put the jack on that triangular looking thing? It has a rounded "top".

Also, where do I put the jack stands? In the "grooves" located all along the bottom of the car? (The grooves are kind of built into the body panel...)

I want to make sure. Wouldn't want to die while working on the car. LOL.

Edit: If anyone could get me pics, I would extrememly grateful.

 

I found this.

http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/jackingpoints.php

However, I don't see anything of that color under the car. There is only the triangular looking thing which connects about from wheel to wheel. The a lot of the car is black w/ all kinds of splash guards...

 

I just found this pic.

Is this the correct placement?
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...hl=jack+points

I used the triangular thing (you can see it in the first pic)

 

Hi Jimmy,

http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/jackingpoints.php

Also, J. Telectro once had the same question and people replied with a number of useful info. See if you can find the post, it should be within the first 5 pages or so I believe. Actually, I found it, what a helpful guy I am, this is what I call "The American Way":

https://volvoforums.com/m_47974/tm.htm

Make sure to use high-quality jackstands that hold more than 3 tons. I bought Craftsman's 3.5 ton units for about $20. I wanted to pay more to get made in USA, but Craftsman didn't have any. Here's the one I bought:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

After you place the car on the jack stands, make sure to "shake" the car to see if there is any play/looseness. It should feel solid if seated properly. Also, do this on a level surface. Put the shifter into "P" or "1", apply P-brakes fully and place chocks if available.

When working under the car, I would wear eye-protection. You'll get dripping oil, coolant, loose metal chips, etc...

I just found your 2nd reply, are you referring to the rear? If so, go over J. Telectro's post, I think there was a reply that noted a jacking point for the rear. I wouldn't place the jack stands under the "triangular" thing, if you're referring to the transverse arm. You could bend the arm and screw up the alignment.

ADDITION:
I just found your 3rd reply.

I wouldn't place jack stands where the pic shows, unless Tech or someone thinks it's safe. If lifting the front, use sub-frame. Also, when you use floor jack to lift the car, use a piece of wood or something to avoid damaging the sub-frame.

Be safe.


JPN

 

As long as you are close to that triangle bracket that goes to the sub frame you should be fine. That is where the dealer puts their lift I believe.

This is the setup that I used when I did my sway bars a few weeks ago. I had jacks at the point in question (with wood between the jack and my car) as well as the mid jacking points that the factory jack attaches. The other jack (center) was to help lower the sub frame.

 

I always grab the Big subframe bold in the front with the lift. A jackstand will be fine by the 2 little screw in the back of the triangle piece.

The rear you can use the pinch weld but stay as close to the rear wheels as you can.

 

Your link is broken. Or at least I can't access.

LoL, JPN, I found all those pics already. Hahah. I tried to use that, but I can't find the miscolored thing that they have in the pics.. I think my jackstands hold 2 tons, as well as the jack. I only need the front as I'm changing the t-stat out.

As to Tech, I will put the jackstands by the 2 little screws as per your advice.

I'm still gonna do a little bit more reading though, I don't want to die. LOL.

 

The Yellow things in the pic is the lift arms they are using.

 

Hi Jimmy,

I tried all 3 links I provided and they all worked for me.

I am not sure if 2-ton stands are sufficient, as 850 is a heavy one. Ask Tech to see if 2-ton is strong enough. I usually don't trust nominal capacity and go with a bit of extra, so I went with 3.5-ton.

Unless you plan to drain the engine block, you do not have to raise the front. But if you do plan to drain the block, I suggest that you put some thread sealant on the threads of the petcock when putting it back on the block. As for the petcock on the radiator, finger-tight plus 1/8 turn will suffice. It's plastic, so if you tighten it too much, it'll break off. Attaching rubber hoses on the 2 petcocks makes the job a lot neater.

Anyway, I've always used the sub-frame for the front-end jobs to place the stands.


JPN

 

Sorry about that. I was responding to info2x (the one I quoted first) then, I was responding to you. His link is broke. The "This"

 

Yes my link broke. Apparently blogger doesn't like me linking to my images, grrrr. If you go to my Chisled Brick site I have a picture there.

Edit: or just look at the attachment


[IMG]local://upfiles/1385/E83A576C40ED448A8C5A0B6EE223A417.jpg[/IMG]

 

^LOL. Extra Safety...Did I count correct? 5 jacks/jackstands? LOL.

I used the triangular looking thing w/ near the widest point w/ the 2 bolts. Thanks for the help. Got that t-stat changed, now the car seems to run better (unless its placebo effect...)

 

Well the 2 jack stands caried the brunt of the weight while the 2 jacks were there for safety. The other jack (center of pic) was used to lower the rear of the sub frame to allow for removal of the front sway bar.

 

It looks like over the course of years & site upgrades, none of the links or images on this thread work anymore. I'm specifically looking for a good spot to raise the rear of our 850 GLT up. is there actually a good location? Or am I left with raising one side, then the other? (obviously i have jack stands to use too

A helpful diagram of the best jacking points (other than those two on the middle of each side) would really help!
Thanks!
-Chris