anyone know where i can find a guide for spark plug install for c70 ???

 

Here's an option:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw...+Repair+Manual+

If you're mechanically inclined, use general practice method. Do not re-gap platinum/iridium plugs, unless permitted by the instruction.


JPN

 

I disagree with JPN. On my c70 with Bosch single platinum plugs I gap them a tad over 5 thousands over. This holds true on all my autos. I have used the Bosch plugs for over 25 years and have a bit of authority on them. When you replace your plugs (after removing the top plastic cover) place a dab of silicone grease on the inside of the boot. In addition you will want to place some copper paste on the threads of the plugs that you are installing. You will find that the install is very simple and you will not require a "text" to replace them. A tip to the wise.............since the plugs are recessed you will want a plug socket with a rubber boot so as to hold the plug when removing and installing them. Additionally you will need an extension for the socket as the plugs are recessed appx 4 inches in the head.

 

Use a torque wrench, if you're not sure on how much pressure to use from feel.

S.

 

BOSCH:
http://www.boschautoparts.com/Resour...SparkPlugs.htm

Are Bosch Spark Plugs pre-gapped at the factory?

Most Bosch Spark Plugs are factory pre-gapped for popular vehicle applications. The gap measurements are indicated either on the box, or by the part number located on the spark plug shell.
[ul][*]X suffix = .044"[*]Y suffix = .060"[*]Z suffix = .080" [/ul]
Gaps should never by adjusted on Platinum+4 or Platinum2. Bosch Platinum+4 and Platinum2 have factory pre-set gaps, and should never be gapped by the installer.

Bosch Platinum and Super Spark Plugs also have factory-set gaps. For most plugs, the setting is shown on the plug package. These gaps are correct for the most popular applications of these plugs. There are applications, however, for which the gap setting has to be adjusted according to the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications. To avoid damage to a spark plug in the process of adjusting the gap, it is important to follow these guidelines:
[ul][*]To widen the electrode gap, use a tool that only pulls back the ground electrode, without applying pressure to the center electrode. The tool must not be wedged between the electrodes as that may cause damage to the insulator nose.[*]To close the electrode gap, carefully tap the plug, electrode first, on a hard surface, as shown in the illustration.[/ul]
If I remember correctly, gapping on Bosch Platinum plugs is only allowed on the single-ground electrode plugs, and the package used to say "After initial gapping, no re-gapping is necessary". Not sure if they still have the same quotation.

DENSO:
http://www.densoiridium.com/faq.php

Q. Do I need to set the gap?
A. Generally, no. The DENSO Iridium Power plug comes pre-set with a protective sleeve over the firing end, to protect the gap from accidental alteration. DENSO Iridium Power’s ultra-efficient firing power compensates for normally recommended gap settings that are smaller than the pre-set value. In the cases of vehicle modifications (nitrous, turbo-chargers, super-chargers, high power ignition systems, etc.), some adjustments may be desired. Or, if you prefer to remain consistent with factory specifications, you may adjust. However, please be careful not to place any stress on the fine center electrode during adjustment. You could accidentally break off the very hard, and therefore brittle, tip.

Q. How do I gap Iridium plugs
A. Before attempting to gap any DENSO Iridium Power spark plug, please review the specification chart to see the factory-preset gap. In most cases your Iridium Power plugs do not need to be gapped. Even with small variations in the factory set gap the ultra-efficient firing power design will compensate for those small variations. Should you decide to re-gap your Iridium Power plug, use extreme caution as improper gapping may damage or destroy the Iridium center electrode or porcelain center. To increase the gap size: Step 1 Use needle nose pliers or spark plug gapping tool to bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN. Step 2 Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. To decrease the gap size: Step 1 Use the same method as above, however bend the ground strap down to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE PLIERS OR GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN. Step 2 Re-check the gap with a calibrated gapping tool. WARNING: Failure to follow these directions may permanently damage the spark plug. Note: Never use a round gapping tool to check the gap or to increase or decrease the gap setting.

NGK:
http://www.ngk.com/faqmain.asp

Do I need to Gap my plugs?

Maybe, but likely not. Many plugs are pre-gapped for their most popular applications, however, the gap can be altered if the plug is dropped or mishandled in packing/shipping. Therefore even if the plugs are supposedly preset for your motor, it is always wise to check the gap on each plug prior to installing.

Should I gap my Iridium Plugs?

The manufacturers say NO.
This is because most people do not know how to properly gap a spark plug, and the center electrodes on the ultra-fine iridium can easily snap if mishandled. There is no warranty for snapped center electrodes. The manufacturers say an iridium spark plug will run so much better than a traditional plug, even if it is not gapped for that motor, that they would prefer you just leave it rather than risk snapping the center electrode.
Personally, we at sparkplugs.com, gap our iridium plugs for our own vehicles (weæ±*e rebels). If you insist on gapping your iridium plug, please refer to Proper Gapping for instruction.


VERDICT:
Gapping on Platinum/Iridium plugs is generally not necessary, but can be done if you wish. However, an utmost care is required and if done carelessly, the electrodes would be damaged.

I am not here to say who's right or wrong, so take whatever you thinkis beneficialfor you. But I personally would follow the manufacturers' instructions.


JPN

 

Here's my personal, generalprocedure:

REMOVAL:

1. Ensure the engine is cold. Overnight is the best.

2. Clean the hole/space around the plug nests to avoid FOD entering the combustion chamber.

3. With spark plug socket (Rubber insert, magnetic, spring loaded, etc...), extension & a ratchet handle, remove the old plugs, keeping everything as straight as possible to avoid damage onto the threads.

4. After removal, make sure that nothing falls into the hole.


INSTALLATION:

1. Check & adjust the gap on the new plug, only if you wish on Platinum/Iridium plugs (Necessary on generic copper plugs, though).

2. Put anti-seize compound on the top few threads of the plug (closer to the hex).

3. With ONLY the extension & socket, hand-tighten the plug until it gets really tight, keeping everything in-line (straight) Then, attach a ratchet handle and tighten with moderate force until it stops. Never force it. If you feel that the plug has seated, then follow the torque specified in a service manual (or keep tightening with a torque wrench). If no torque value is available, I personally tighten an additional 1/8-1/4 of a turn on a gasket-fitted plugs, or 1/16 turn on non-gasket type plugs.

4. Put back the ignition wire, applying some silicone grease inside the boot, as described by Reg.

5. Start the engine and check for proper operation.

Even though spark plug replacement seems an easy job, some steps require utmost care or you'll damage the plugs or the threads in aluminum head, which would become a costly repair. Do not rush, and take your time. If you've never done it before, I would read instructions on-line at spark plug manufacturers' web sites or service manual. Also, replace plugs one at a time, and observe the condition of the old plugs, as they can tell you a lot about what's happening inside the combustion chambers.

AUTOLITE:
An audio-visual instruction:
http://www.autolite.com/carcare/howto.php

Or if you prefer text-version:
http://www.autolite.com/carcare/faq.php


I hope this helps.


JPN

 

Nice write up JPN. When platinum plugs came on the market the first thing you noticed was that the centre electrode was quite flush with the ceramic 'centre'. It was found that the spark was much more intense with platinum and therefore a wider gap meant a hotter and fatter spark. Volvo only used platinum plugs (Bosh is the mfg of them) on the 80 series. The other models used copper plugs. I am not sure of the newer Volvos, but at any rate by gapping the single electrode plug (which I still find to be superior to the multi electrode plugs) a tad wider, the result was a faster auto and gas economy was improved and the plug did not foul. Mfg's now use platinum plugs and that is one of the reasons that they reccommend the 100,000 mile tune up...............that coupled with computer controlled fuel injection. Have you had much success with the multi electrode plugs? Jeez...........it went from a single electrode to two........then three and now four. What's next?

r.

 

I just bought new spark plugs and replaced them today, after installation i fired up the car and it was making a very strong clicking sound. I immediately turned off the engine, it seemed by the rate the clicking was it was only happening in one cylinder whatever it was. Misfire? I noticed that one of the rubber boots that connects to the spark plug was deteriorated a little right near the tip where it connects to the plug. Also i wasnt extremely careful of making sure nothing fell in while the boot and/or socket was out. Any help on what the noise most likely is?