Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor Replacement !
#1
Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor Replacement !
Hi guys,
been having a few problems again recently and this resulted in my engine management light coming on and the next morning, the car not starting. Got a guy with a meter in and he said the car was flooded (didn't know why) but the management light was coming on because of the turbo boost pressure sensor.
I thought I'd get hold of one and either fit it myself, or get someone else to do it. the guy with the meter pointed out a couple of possibilities where he thought the pressure sensor was, but admitted he'd never done one on a C70, so wasn't too sure.
I got on one of the part sites and put a requirement for a turbo boost pressure sensor. A few breakers replied and I ordered the part from one. When it came it looks completely different than what I thought. What I received looks like some some of filter/valve, with 2 very thin hoses coming off, one elongated plastic nipple that looks like a hose should fit on it, and a small plug socket. I was under the impression that the pressure sensor would look completely different.
I looked in the Haynes manual but it never said much. It just mentioned disconnecting the turbo boost pressure sensor as the last thing when removing the turbo. Do you have to remove the turbo to change the turbo boost pressure sensor?
I can post a picture of the part I received a bit later, and would be grateful for anyone's advice.
Thanks,
Steve.
been having a few problems again recently and this resulted in my engine management light coming on and the next morning, the car not starting. Got a guy with a meter in and he said the car was flooded (didn't know why) but the management light was coming on because of the turbo boost pressure sensor.
I thought I'd get hold of one and either fit it myself, or get someone else to do it. the guy with the meter pointed out a couple of possibilities where he thought the pressure sensor was, but admitted he'd never done one on a C70, so wasn't too sure.
I got on one of the part sites and put a requirement for a turbo boost pressure sensor. A few breakers replied and I ordered the part from one. When it came it looks completely different than what I thought. What I received looks like some some of filter/valve, with 2 very thin hoses coming off, one elongated plastic nipple that looks like a hose should fit on it, and a small plug socket. I was under the impression that the pressure sensor would look completely different.
I looked in the Haynes manual but it never said much. It just mentioned disconnecting the turbo boost pressure sensor as the last thing when removing the turbo. Do you have to remove the turbo to change the turbo boost pressure sensor?
I can post a picture of the part I received a bit later, and would be grateful for anyone's advice.
Thanks,
Steve.
#3
Update
Cheers for the reply mkc70. Been busy doing a bit more investigating and think I've sussed it out.
Funny thing is, I contacted lots of garages to try and get someone to look at it and they all declined. No-one would have a look at it.
I definately think the part is the right one. So no worries there.
Anyway, I think it's a really easy (like 5 mins) job and I'll barely need to bend over the engine. The turbo is at the back, but the sensor is at the front of the engine on the passenger side. It's just a matter of disconnecting the hoses and elecrical plug, and replacing the part. Then finding a way to clear the engine management light.
If the problem isn't fixed, then it'll come on again. Hopefully not.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
Steve.
Funny thing is, I contacted lots of garages to try and get someone to look at it and they all declined. No-one would have a look at it.
I definately think the part is the right one. So no worries there.
Anyway, I think it's a really easy (like 5 mins) job and I'll barely need to bend over the engine. The turbo is at the back, but the sensor is at the front of the engine on the passenger side. It's just a matter of disconnecting the hoses and elecrical plug, and replacing the part. Then finding a way to clear the engine management light.
If the problem isn't fixed, then it'll come on again. Hopefully not.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
Steve.
#4
OK, so the sensor is fitted. Took less than 10 minutes, and the car seems to idle a bit smoother after I turned it over.
Still need to clear the light but I'll sort something out for that. Even if I need to get a code reader. Probably still cheaper than taking it to a dealer, and I'll always be able to pull codes off if (when!) anything else goes wrong.
I'll keep an eye on it and if I get the code clearer and it stays off, then it's fixed.
Cheers.
Still need to clear the light but I'll sort something out for that. Even if I need to get a code reader. Probably still cheaper than taking it to a dealer, and I'll always be able to pull codes off if (when!) anything else goes wrong.
I'll keep an eye on it and if I get the code clearer and it stays off, then it's fixed.
Cheers.
#6
Story So Far ...
Hi Reg,
cheers, but I did actually decide to get one last week. Hasn't managed to clear it though. Here's the story so far.
Replaced the turbo boost pressure sensor. Turned out to be a 5 minute job after getting the part. Got a code reader and found out the car had an 0237 and 0236 error code. Cleared the codes, but almost immediately, the Engine Managment Light was on again.
Re-scanned and it had cleared the 0236, but the 0237 remained.
Thought that the next logical thing to try was to replace the MAF sensor. It arrived today and I fitted it tonight after work. Funny thing is, the car wouldn't even turn over after it was fitted. I tried again with the MAF sensor disconnected and still it wouldn't fire. Almost took out the new sensor but thought I'd just try taking out the air filter. I know it was pretty clogged and I already had one on order (should be here tomorrow). Anyway, took out the air filter and she fired first time. I tried clearing the codes again but it failed to clear the Engine Light. I let it run for a few minutes and tried kicking the accelerator a few times and it seemed to respond a lot better than it has in the last week (when it has been really bad - no acceleration, lack of power, but not using much fuel ?!?!?).
I rescanned and got 1 code 0237 (again) but also got an 0236 pending. I guess that this is a knock on effect.
I guess the next thing to try is to get someone to check out the electrics unless the 0237 will clear on it's own once the ECU has calmed down, the engines running normal again, and the emissions are back to normal.
Anyone any other ideas?
Cheers,
Monkey.
cheers, but I did actually decide to get one last week. Hasn't managed to clear it though. Here's the story so far.
Replaced the turbo boost pressure sensor. Turned out to be a 5 minute job after getting the part. Got a code reader and found out the car had an 0237 and 0236 error code. Cleared the codes, but almost immediately, the Engine Managment Light was on again.
Re-scanned and it had cleared the 0236, but the 0237 remained.
Thought that the next logical thing to try was to replace the MAF sensor. It arrived today and I fitted it tonight after work. Funny thing is, the car wouldn't even turn over after it was fitted. I tried again with the MAF sensor disconnected and still it wouldn't fire. Almost took out the new sensor but thought I'd just try taking out the air filter. I know it was pretty clogged and I already had one on order (should be here tomorrow). Anyway, took out the air filter and she fired first time. I tried clearing the codes again but it failed to clear the Engine Light. I let it run for a few minutes and tried kicking the accelerator a few times and it seemed to respond a lot better than it has in the last week (when it has been really bad - no acceleration, lack of power, but not using much fuel ?!?!?).
I rescanned and got 1 code 0237 (again) but also got an 0236 pending. I guess that this is a knock on effect.
I guess the next thing to try is to get someone to check out the electrics unless the 0237 will clear on it's own once the ECU has calmed down, the engines running normal again, and the emissions are back to normal.
Anyone any other ideas?
Cheers,
Monkey.
#12
Hi,
So a few more developments.
The new air filter came and I fitted it today. Took a couple of times to start and the revs lurched for a minute or so before it settled down to a constant tickover.
P0237 error code is still there. I had a look at the code reader and noticed a few other menu options. One of them was called I/M. The manual said it was the Inspection and Maintenance menu, used for pre inspection checks (presumably before putting the car in for an MOT).
A few things in the menu were set. The MIL indicator was set to ON which I assume means the Engine Maintenance Light is illuminated. In addition to this there were many categories which were all set to READY or N/A. The ones that were set to NOT READY (and according to the manual, had failed the inspection diagnostics) were as follows :-
CAT - Not Ready
O2s - Not Ready
HO2s - Not Ready
Please somemone tell me that this isn't the cat converter. Maybe it'll shed some extra light on whats going on with my car.
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve.
So a few more developments.
The new air filter came and I fitted it today. Took a couple of times to start and the revs lurched for a minute or so before it settled down to a constant tickover.
P0237 error code is still there. I had a look at the code reader and noticed a few other menu options. One of them was called I/M. The manual said it was the Inspection and Maintenance menu, used for pre inspection checks (presumably before putting the car in for an MOT).
A few things in the menu were set. The MIL indicator was set to ON which I assume means the Engine Maintenance Light is illuminated. In addition to this there were many categories which were all set to READY or N/A. The ones that were set to NOT READY (and according to the manual, had failed the inspection diagnostics) were as follows :-
CAT - Not Ready
O2s - Not Ready
HO2s - Not Ready
Please somemone tell me that this isn't the cat converter. Maybe it'll shed some extra light on whats going on with my car.
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve.
#13
#14
Cheers tech,
thats a relief. Hopefully I'm still on the right tracks.
I've ordered a set of VARDIS CD's from ebay to see if I can find anything in there. After that I think I'll have to call in an motor electrician.
If anyone has any other thoughts, please post a reply. I'll let you know how it all turns out when / if I finally sort it out.
Cheers,
Steve.
thats a relief. Hopefully I'm still on the right tracks.
I've ordered a set of VARDIS CD's from ebay to see if I can find anything in there. After that I think I'll have to call in an motor electrician.
If anyone has any other thoughts, please post a reply. I'll let you know how it all turns out when / if I finally sort it out.
Cheers,
Steve.
#15
Update
OK,
so my VARDIS CD's arrived and I loaded them up on my PC.
What a great bit of software, loads of info.
Code P0236 = Volvo code ECM-170F Atmospheric pressure sensor/boost pressure sensor range check - FAULTY (Intermittent and permanent)
Code P0237 = Volvo code ECM-1600 Boost pressure sensor - SIGNAL TOO LOW (Intermittent and permanent)
I looked up the parts on the software and went through the diagnostics. For the codes I'm getting the only 2 things left to investigate are the MAP sensor and the wiring.
I've already changed the boost pressure sensor and the MAF sensor, and the software seems to imply that if the MAP sensor has gone down, then the others won't work properly anyway.
Next step is to get a replacement MAP sensor and see where we go from there.
I'll post a reply with the results.
Cheers,
Steve.
so my VARDIS CD's arrived and I loaded them up on my PC.
What a great bit of software, loads of info.
Code P0236 = Volvo code ECM-170F Atmospheric pressure sensor/boost pressure sensor range check - FAULTY (Intermittent and permanent)
Code P0237 = Volvo code ECM-1600 Boost pressure sensor - SIGNAL TOO LOW (Intermittent and permanent)
I looked up the parts on the software and went through the diagnostics. For the codes I'm getting the only 2 things left to investigate are the MAP sensor and the wiring.
I've already changed the boost pressure sensor and the MAF sensor, and the software seems to imply that if the MAP sensor has gone down, then the others won't work properly anyway.
Next step is to get a replacement MAP sensor and see where we go from there.
I'll post a reply with the results.
Cheers,
Steve.
#16
Update
OK,
just for anyone whose interested, my replacement MAP sensor arrived today.
I fitted in within 2 minutes. Plugged in the code reader. Turned on the ignition, cleared the codes....and the Engine Management Light went off. I turned the engine over and it revved erratically for a couple of minutes and then settled down. The light stayed off. I re-scanned. No codes. I turned off the engine and re-set the machine. Then turned it over again and re-scanned. No codes.
I'm presuming it's now fixed although I haven't aken it out for a blast yet. That'll be done on the way to work in the morning.
Cheers for the help to those who replied,
Ste.
just for anyone whose interested, my replacement MAP sensor arrived today.
I fitted in within 2 minutes. Plugged in the code reader. Turned on the ignition, cleared the codes....and the Engine Management Light went off. I turned the engine over and it revved erratically for a couple of minutes and then settled down. The light stayed off. I re-scanned. No codes. I turned off the engine and re-set the machine. Then turned it over again and re-scanned. No codes.
I'm presuming it's now fixed although I haven't aken it out for a blast yet. That'll be done on the way to work in the morning.
Cheers for the help to those who replied,
Ste.
#18
Its 2014, a different owner and car but SAME issue
I'm currently going through the same issue. In fact this post has pretty much helped me figure out what the hay is going on with my car.
My car came up with 4 different codes that point to the Boost pressure sensor, MAF, and MAP...
I got a Chilton's Volvo 8428 (72302) book from the library (I read its pretty much the same for a 2000 elsewhere on the forums)...I've located the MAP and MAF sensor but cannot for the life of me locate in the book the Boost Pressure Sensor.
Help? Can anyone post a diagram showing where this sensor is located? or tell me which book would have this info? or where in Hades it is in the Chilton??
Thanks for the help guys I really, really appreciate it!
My car came up with 4 different codes that point to the Boost pressure sensor, MAF, and MAP...
I got a Chilton's Volvo 8428 (72302) book from the library (I read its pretty much the same for a 2000 elsewhere on the forums)...I've located the MAP and MAF sensor but cannot for the life of me locate in the book the Boost Pressure Sensor.
Help? Can anyone post a diagram showing where this sensor is located? or tell me which book would have this info? or where in Hades it is in the Chilton??
Thanks for the help guys I really, really appreciate it!
#20
im having two codes pop up when i plug in my code reader, p0236 & p0237, i have already changed the TCV but that didnt help and i have a MAF sensor on the way hoping that will fix it. i just hate throwing parts at this car and not knowing if im changing the right one. Is there a way to check if any of the sensors are good or bad?