Picked up a 2002 s40 with 200k miles on it yesterday, for my eldest kids girlfriend. She has been driving a total POS Mitsubishi that her own dad wont do anything about. I said I'd get her a car, and a little Volvo sprung to mind right away. I have run them before and had good luck with them. Safe, economical, easy to work on and cheap to buy a 98-2002 model.
So after looking at half a dozen total junk cars (Soaked floors in a C70, to a blown head on a S70 GLT that he claimed was an air pocket), I grabbed a '02 S40 that had a flat battery and a slew of codes. For $750 though, it was a good deal considering the overall condition.
Suspected the alternator/low voltage for the 17 codes it had, and after finding the receipt for the battery, went and got a new one FOC and checked the alternator. 14.5v running, so that is good.
Cleared the codes, and the only one left is P0341, camshaft sensor. It's in limp mode and idling bad etc.
There is a load of oil from behind the timing belt cover, so suspecting either the cam seals or the sensor itself for the oil. Make sense?
There was also some oil on the other end of the motor, which I'll investigate.
Will do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and cam seals if they look bad, and look into the cam sensor to see if its bad, or just oil soaked.
New set of plugs, and maybe a set of coils if they are reasonable.
There is some movement on the front strut top mounts, maybe 1/4" when you rock the car. Bushings/mounts?
Various interior lights out (stereo back light, HVAC ****, etc) so will fix those.
Sunroof is a little slow, so will lube that up, and get some graphite spray on the ignition key to free that up a little.
Any other maintenance that should be done on it while I'm in there?? I have Alldata for everything, so will be using that, as well as the Actron scanner that will also give me live data.
I want it to be right for her when she gets it, so will do all the work now in one hit. I'm from England before moving to the States, and have 3 Range Rovers, so working on European stuff is no big deal.

Any and all suggestions for any other preventative maintenance welcome.
Cheers
Martin

 

Nice! Doesn't sound too bad at all for $750. I would check the rear brake caliber slide pins and the handbrake mech. They have a rep for seizing up on this vehicle. Also make sure the lower rad hose clamp is not all rusted to hell (where it connects to the rad). Make sure there are no hairline cracks in upper rad hose at the strange plastic connector not right above rad, check the tiny 4" long cooling hose that runs behind the engine for leaks, make sure vvt itself doesn't leak from the plunger thingy (you will see oil all over the underside of timing belt cover of it does), take a good look at the back side of the engine for oil making its way down to the oil drain. That will be your turbo oil return gasket. The play in the suspension is likely the bearing.

Here is a link from a uk site that gives a very comprehensive summary of this vehicle and its quirks.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=160312

 

Replace the VVT hub when doing the timing belt and cam seals. That's the cause of the cam sensor code, not the cam sensor itself. Could also be the actuator, but that's simple to replace any time.

 

Thanks guys!
I will order up those parts when I get the timing belt and so on.
Under the timing cover has been leaking forever, so may be the VVT (variable valve timing?)and not the cps?

Martin

 

The cam position sensor is on the opposite end from the vvt gear and timing belt. With the vvt gear leak it's not if but when. They all leak sooner or later. Given both a leak and a timing code I would replace the whole gear rather than attempt to fix the leak alone. You also should consider a cam holder tool when replacing the vvt gear as the vvt gear can be installed incorrectly very easily.

The other usual suspect for a cam position sensor code is the vvt actuator solenoid. This one goes out from being clogged over time as oil flows through some very small passages.

Let us know what you find out?

 

I will keep you all posted.
On my way back from the parts store yesterday, the pulley on the brand new PRW water pump that I had just installed, came loose. This in turn, cooked the 6.0 liter LSx motor in my Range Rover. So it will be nice to step away from that for a while, and do some testing to see what is going on with the Volvo.
By whole gear, I'm guessing you mean this?
Volvo S40 Camshaft Exhaust V.V.T. Gear | 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004
Is there any one place to order all the parts from, that is reasonable on prices, but still quality items? Or just get each thing from the cheapest place on Ebay etc?
The timing kit I will be picky on, dont want a cheap no name belt and water pump. Although I wont be contacting PRW about one funnily enough....lol
Heading out to the garage now, to do some investigating and make a list of parts.
Cheers
Martin

 

Yep, that's the infamous VVT.


for OEM parts the best site is www.tascaparts.com. You will have trouble finding better prices than what they offer.


Sorry to hear about the Range Rover. That really blows.

 

here's a link to a guide I put together for changing VVT, CAM/Crank seals.
Make sure you read through the whole string as the updated guide + additional tips come up later in the thread.


GUIDE: Replacing Cam Seals / Crank Seal / VVT Hub - Volvo Owners Club Forum

 

This is what I found when removing the covers......Supposed to be dry at a guess? LOL

Will make a list when I get back from taking 2 of the dogs to the vets, and get everything ordered today. Be nice if the shop computer would connect to the internet, but it say local access only.......I hate computers.
I have also been finding some lengths of rubber or wire "string" under the timing cover. Will see what is what when I pull it apart. Dont want to pull the lower cover/engine mount off yet, as it would just tie up the best area in my shop for working on stuff.
Martin

 

Oh, which reminds me - make sure that your PCV/oil trap is not plugged up. That is what caused my CAM seals to eventually leak. Take the oil cap off and put a rubber glove over top of the opening. If the rubber glove inflates, time to renew the PCV. If it eventually gets sucked inwards you are good to go.


Here's a link to the PCV guide:


http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=93683


The oil on top of engine could simply be a faulty seal on the oil fill cap. It's the oil under the cover at the bottom of the pic that will confirm that your vvt is slinging oil all over.

 

It blew the glove up slightly, so its on the list too.
There is smoke coming from the exhaust manifold, like its got oil dripping on it. valve cover feels dry (i went through 3 tins of brake cleaner on it before). some small splatters of oil from the exhaust camshaft area, so may be the vvt pulley slinging it onto the exhaust?

Martin

 

Here is what has been ordered for it roday....
Front strut top bushings, both sides.
Front turn signal lights, missing one.
Hood strut, the block of wood doesnt cut it.
PCV kit
Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Suspect the rear leaking.
Timing belt kit, inc cam seals and water pump.
The "other " timing belt tensioner
VVT pulley. New Volvo one.
VVT Solenoid and gasket.
Serpentine belt.
Also went ahead and got the camshaft holding tool. For $63 it isnt worth me making one myself....
Do we think the camshaft sensor code is from the VVT then? About fell over when I saw the price of a new one! $173?? Really? Wow.
If needed, I'll get one though. The code is P0341, cam sensor. Guessing there is only one, so not sure why it said bank 1 etc... Trans is in limp mode, engine runs rough.

Will also give it a service, new plugs, oil and filters, etc.
That about cover it??
Thanks for your time guys, much appreciated. I jsut want it to be reliable and trouble free for the gal.
Martin

 

Rear of the motor is wet too, so turbo return line gasket?
Which one is it? showing o rings and gaskets....

Martin

 

Most likely is from the plug wires covers that get brittle over time from heat.

 

Cool thanks.

 

Guide:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=217804

 

Good deal, thanks.
Ordered the o ring, gasket and a new set of motor mounts.
Looks like I'll just pull the mounts, do the timing set, return line o rings, and so on, all in one hit. I'll have a look for a lifting point, and use the hoist if possible.

Martin

 

I have to say I have seen a few get some much better deals on Volvo's here. $700 bucks is great and leaves a lot of room to bring car up to where it should be.

I paid considerably more for a 2003 S40 with 130,000 miles.

Little did I know when I did that one of the previous owners had quite a bit of extensive work done on it at 100, 000 mile $2,800 dollars of repairs done on one visit. I have no idea as to other work done by this owner but it seams like she took good care of vehicle.

I am including the repairs that were done, I found this in glove compartment after I purchased car from an auto lot.

It would seem that all of the things needing to be done to the OP's car were done to mine.

The car runs like a champ, I have had to do a few things but is a very nice older car.




How many seals are there? It would appear that from the part list on first pic that they did do the seals involved, wouldn't think that they missed any seems like the did it correctly with even getting the turbo o-ring.


@pierremcalpine nice guides, I am impressed, not sure I would attempt to do some of these things. Looks like I should not have to. @Hudini, also good work, you know your stuff.

Mainly all I have done repair the PNP switch, replace actuator motor for heater, sounded like a barking dog was in my glove box and a few other minor things, plugs and shift gear light. I am going to do front brakes Monday if Brembo rotors come as scheduled.

 

Agree that it is a mirror image of my maintenance pretty much. Weird!
So, is it the thought that the VVT stuff is causing the rough running and camshaft position sensor code?? And the high dollar sensor is innocent of all charges?

Martin

 

I've been working on Volvos for a long time and never saw a cam sensor set that code. It's always either the VVT hub or solenoid.