Hi all!

Now that I have my 2000 S40 1.9T running like a champ, I've started to do some performance mods. One of the more popular ones appeared to be swapping the 12T turbo for the 14T. I figured I'd give it a go and do a write-up in case anyone else wanted to follow suit.

According to various sources, the easy bolt-on replacement is a TD04H-14T from the European T4. I was unable to locate one of these. However, I found a 14T (TD04L-14T) from an S60 2.5T in a Pick-A-Part in my city for only $75 (with ~60k miles on it!), and since I'm a sucker for a good deal, I thought I'd undertake the upgrade. It's a good thing, too, since once I tore my old turbo out I found out there was nearly 1/4 of an inch of in-and-out shaft play and the compressor was black from burning oil for who knows how long.

The first thing I noticed after pulling the 14T from the donor car was that the flange was completely different than the one off my car. Never fear, a quick Google search assured me that the diameter of the compressor housing inlet was the same.

Removing the 12T and 14T from their respective flanges was simple. On the 12T, there is a single nut that holds the clamp and a pin holding the waste gate actuator arm on. The only difference for the 14T was two bolts on the clamp.

There is a small pin in the S40 flange that prevents you from clocking the turbo anywhere other than with the oil outlet straight down, but luckily this aligns perfectly with the pin on the 14T turbo, clocking it correctly. The oil and coolant lines likewise align correctly.

There are two issues preventing this from being a direct bolt-on replacement:

The first is that the compressor housing on the 14T needs to turn 15-20 degrees towards the firewall in order for the wastegate actuator from the 14T to align with the wastegate arm on the flange from the 12T. To accomplish this, remove the large circlip from the compressor housing. This is FAR easier said than done. I recommend using penetrating oil and the correct tool (a good set of circlip pliers), but my cheap circlip pliers were not strong enough for this behemoth. So I bent the tips of a pair of needle nosed pliers in a bit to ensure a strong bite, and that was sufficient. Once the circlip is out, the compressor pulls straight out of the housing. In the housing is a small pin that can be removed. Once the pin is removed, the housing can spin to the correct orientation and once there the circlip can be replaced and the housing no longer freely spins.

The second issue is that the wastegate actuator rod cannot be adjusted tight enough to hold the wastegate fully closed. This is easily remedied by placing washers under the wastegate actuator to allow it pull the gate closed tightly. I used one large steel washer (approx 1/8 inch thick) under each side of the wastegate actuator. The actuator rod can then be adjusted to hold the gate tightly at rest.

Once those two items are complete, the turbo can be bolted back into place and oil, coolant, air, and vacuum lines reconnected. There is enough play in the length of the stock vacuum lines that they reconnect without issue. The air hose coming from the intercooler is a bit tricky, but there is enough material to play with that it works, just be careful that you're not crimping the hose and changing the internal diameter or you might find that your 14T turbo doesn't boost any better than the 12T did.

And that's it! I replaced my 12T with the 14T so I can get a tune down the line and push a little more boost, but you could just as easily (and at your own discretion) install an MBC and let her rip!

Let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thanks for reading!

 

What was the out come of your upgrade? How did it perform afterwards? Any follow up?

 

There was a clear, noticeable difference for me between the 12T and the 14T. How much of that was due to the fact that my 12T was on its way out I don't know.

It is my understanding that a larger turbo even at the same boost pressure should provide a bit more power for a couple of reasons. First, the larger compressor doesn't have to work as hard to create the pressure, so the air going into (and in turn coming out of) the intercooler will be cooler. Second, the larger compressor can create that boost pressure while restricting exhaust flow less, thereby creating less backpressure.

I have also installed 550cc injectors and for a couple of hours had a homemade MBC that I threw in just to see what the car would do. I adjusted as high as 20psi briefly and that was a good kick in the pants. Most of the time I was around 16-17psi.

Once I complete my 3" turbo back exhaust and get the ECU tune, I'll rent a dyno and see what the total gain over stock is.

Overall, I'd recommend the 14T turbo, especially if you have over 120k miles or so which as I understand it is when the original turbo usually starts to break down. Since the cost of a low mileage or rebuilt 12T isn't really different than the 14T I got and there's no major obstacle to installation or function, it seems a worthwhile swap assuming your engine is in good running order.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

I was wonering there would be difference in the lag. Being a bigger turbo would it spool up a little higher in the rpm. This is on my wish list, but waiting for a good reason to make the swap. Who would do your tune?

 

Yeah the 14T should spool up a bit higher in the RPM range than the 12T, but for me it isn't an issue. I contacted a couple of places and UPsolute had by far the best prices. I was quoted $350 for a tune that included my mods (14T turbo, 550cc injectors, 3" turbo back exhaust).

The base tune with an all stock car is $300, and they claim a 45hp and 50 ft/lb torque increase over stock without the tune, so I'm looking at a good bit more than that.

If you'd like to get in touch with someone over there, I contacted André Bérubé (andre@upsolute.com) at the UPsolute North America Office.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I have to replace my turbo...

Questions -
- So it looks like you simply switched the exhaust housing side form the 12T onto the 14T to correct the bolt flange...

- Also when bolting this on, did you run the stock injectors for any length of time and does the 14T create enough boost to lean out the motor requiring an injector upgrade...

Im sure I will think of some other questions but thanks...

Hank

 

Yep, all you have to do is swap the housing. Be sure to remove the alignment pin from the 14T as it will cause an alignment issue with the 12T housing.

I did not run stock injectors for any appreciable time. But if you're not going to be adding a manual boost controller or getting an ECU tune, the 14T will only produce whatever the max factory boost PSI is and dump the rest, so it shouldn't appreciably affect the mix.

I'm happy to answer any questions you might have. Just let me know.

 

Where do you live that you are getting the tune? (In the states there are little to no options)

Ecu will adjust just fine to the stock setup + 14T. I would suggest upgrade to the red injectors on the ph2.


We tried in vain for awhile when I did mine and we said f it and took a chisel the the pin, but if it's together it should fit in.

FYI there is a heat shield on the trans to protect the crossmember mount that may or may not be blocking access to the oil return line hookup. You can remove it I believe. Would need to remove the subframe crossmember to do that probably.


There is a good thread on 30forty50 with part #s

 

I want to do this swap on my 2000 s40.. can you just drop in the 14t or does it need other supporting mods like injectors and what not. if i just wanted to put it in by itself would the factory TCV and map sensor be able to adjust for it? i already have an intake and some exhaust work done.
THANKS!!!!

 

what would happen if you bolted on a 14t instead of the 12 without any fuel mods or boost controller. just a straight swap?

 

I have been looking for a good turbo upgrade for my 2001 v40 for over a year. I read your post and was very happy with your instructions I have since then ported my manifold and exhaust housing and rebuilt the 14T with mambas 9-6 kit and I am extremely happy with the outcome thank you.