Any body know the ins and outs of replaceing the timing belt on the 2002 S40 1.9L Turbo? Special tool requirement? How to ensure the cams are alined?

- Atch

 

There's a notch to make sure the timing is correct. It's a pretty straight forward job. What questions do you have exactly?

 

Some mechanic in town said he wouldn't do the job because he would need to spend at least a grand just for a special tool to align the cams and losen the tensioner arm. I am hoping to do it in the drive way with basic tools. just don't want to screw it up and destroy the engine (i.e., smashing the pistons through the head on start-up).

By the way, I am also planning on doing the driver's side CV Joint on the wife's 2008 XC90 in the driveway. I got a new dis-assembled CV Joint (basically just the knuckle and bearing with a tube of grease) and want to know if I can do it with basic tools and a jack? I am only guessing that the CV Joint is going because it clicks like hell whenever I turn more than say 45 degrees in either direction. However, the boot is not ripped, and it doesn't appear to be throwing grease. I was amazed that the CV Joint would be giving me trouble so soon, but it is the onlt thing I can think of...

Any thoughts???

 

I didn't a use any special tool besides just fo locking the cams Have done it on both an 02 s40 and 94 850. I would return the cv and buy a whole half shaft. It's a simple repair with a jack and hand tools.

 

I have a 2001 V40 1.9T. I did the timing belt last summer. I did get a cam locking tool on Amazon for $20 - $30 I recall. This helps lock the cams to each other. However, if you are not careful, it can slip off or the crank can get out of time with the cams.

If you search a bunch of Volvo forums, you can find DIYs for the job. There are also Youtube videos for similar cars.

The job would be easy if the engine were out on a bench. The difficulty comes from the fact that you have to reach down between the front of the engine and the right front wheel well. There isn't much room. I replaced my water pump, tensioner & idler pulley at the same time. I took my time and it took the better part of a day. Getting the belt tension correct with the temperature dependent marker is a bit tricky as well.

If you study it, plan it & take your time, it's not too bad of a job.

 

$1000 in special tools? Sounds like he is just afraid. No special tools are required, unless you consider a 6mm allen special.

 

He may have been looking at the Volvo rear cam locking tools. The one from Volvo is pricey, Ive seen them for $350 or so online. You can get an aftermarket one for $100. And you only need the REAR lock if you have to pull one of the gears off... and that leads me to an issue with S40's. The VVT gears start leaking oil sometime after 100k.

How many miles on the car? Have you pulled the upper TB cover off to take a look at the belt? If not pull the cover asap and check for any oil on the belt, gears or the inside of the cover. If you have oil either your VVT gear is leaking and needs to be replaced and/or an oil seal is leaking. Either way a gear will most probably have to come off and you, or your mechanic, will have to buy the rear cam lock tool.

If everything is dry, and you dont want to mess around with the VVT gear or oil seals, a cheapy cam lock will do. You can even make your own from a block of wood pretty easily. the internets has many examples of this

 

You don't need any cam lock tool when just doing the belt.

 

I agree you don't need one but some people feel better using one, the one i used when doing the 850 didn't hold well at all, and really didn't do anything.

 

Thanks for the response Livens. No there is no grease or oil around the cams/gears. just doing the belt as long as the markings are all good. Thanks for the advice.


- Atch

 

Thanks Oldacura for your input. I will have to do a bit more research because this is the first I've heard or Temperature Dependent Markers...


- Atch

 

Thanks ES6T. That is what I thought too. It could have had something to do with the fact that I told the mechanic I was bringing my own parts too...


- Atch

 

No problem and good luck. I had to do the whole shabang, VVT gear, all new oil seals, TB and water pump. Doing just the belt is much easier, and I agree with everyone else that a cam lock is not essential for this job. When I first pulled mine off the gears didn't move much at all, and were pretty hard to make them move.

If the car has never had the TB done then the marks on the gears should line up with the notches on the TB cover. You can pull the crankshaft pulley or leave it in. I left mine in and had very little trouble with it. There is a mark on the inside of the crankshaft gear and a mark on the oil pump housing, both visible from above. You do have to fiddle with the belt to get it back on. I didn't have an impact wrench back then, I do now... and if I had it to do again I would pull the pulley and replace the seal while I was at it. So if you have access to an impact wrench I would do it.

Let us know how it goes!

 

I didn't replace my cam seals. I hope I don't regret it. Also, I didn't remove the crank pulley. It isn't too bad to fit the belt over the pulley in place. I don't have any special tools or impact wrenches either.

There is a stud in the block that holds the engine mount to the block. As I recall, it is necessary to get the stud out of the block. I think you have to "double-nut" it to remove. If not, you cannot get the engine mount out of the car. Also, installing the new water pump can be pretty hard to reach.

 

I ended up buying the $80 rear cam locking tool from amazon AND ended up having to go back in there to replace my vvt gear a month AFTER having done the seals. The rear cam locking tool + the crank locking pin does make the job more lengthy BUT 1) you will know that you have nailed the timing and 2) you will be prepared when your vvt gear finally goes...mine went at 130,000 miles.

 

I feel what you are saying about the cam tool and vvt gear. I will have to see how it all works out when I go to do the job. Thanks again.... Going to do the cv joint on the wife's XC90 today (fingers crossed).


- Atch

 

I would seriously consider doing the VVT gear as well. I know its a headache to replace, and a bigger expense... but its not a question of IF your VVT gear will leak, Its WHEN. They all leak sometime after 100k. And when it leaks you will be doing the timing belt again too.

And if you do the VVT gear, you may has well do the cam seals too... none of mine were leaking yet, but half of them had oil sitting around them. Forget Volvo prices for the seals, I found SKF seals (SKF makes the seals for Volvo) for 6-$7 from an online store. I have all of the SKF part numbers written down somewhere if you need them.

 

Actually, I would greatly appreciate it if you could send me the part numbers. I ordered a new Timing belt online, but they sent me the wrong belt (i.e., it was too long). Of course, I did not know that until I had all the stuff in the way and the Engine Mount removed!!! Thanks in advance.

-Atch

 

So....I busted the mounting spline on my driver's side Wiper linkage and now have to replace the whole thing upto the Wiper Motor. Any Idea on what the part# is and where to get it in Canada????

-Atch

 

I would source that stuff from a junkyard if possible. If you are not near a big city then maybe an online junkyard.

The part that connects the wiper motor to the arms is the LINK and the VIDA 2010B part number is 30850294