Hi guys. So I have a 2005 S40i (Non Turbo) and I've been having all sorts of problems that I'm hoping someone on here can help me fix!
It all began with a misfire! Started up my car in the morning, took off down the road and all of a sudden I get the message "Try shift up or slow down" Along with a flashing "Check Engine light" and almost no power. I Rolled to a stop and shut the car down hoping I could re boot the thing. Started it up, same problem! I took it about a mile down the road to a local shop and they said the car was coming up with all sorts of codes. So here's what we did.

The mechanic thought that it could be 1 of 3 things. Timing off, the CVVT solenoid, or fowling spark plugs.

He checked my timing belt and saw that it was about 1/2 a tooth off. (I'm thinking that's normal)but he thinks that with the Volvo it could be that sensitive where 1/2 tooth off might make a difference. He said that since that is the most expensive thing to do we will try the other first. So he went ahead and replaced the CVVT solenoid. $450 later I get the car back and it's not misfiring, but when accelerating from around 1000RPM to 2000RPM the engine does all sorts of weird jumping and knocking with intermittent loss of power. After 2000RPM It starts to drive normally. (The car is manual BTW)

So I just went and changed the spark plugs.(Used volvo OEM plugs). It seems like it might be a little better, but I'm still getting that lurking at the lower RPMs. I know I need to change the timing belt because it is old, but can this be the cause of my problems? Anyone have any other ideas? My check engine light has not come on since I had it in the shop and that was about 250 miles ago. It's very frustrating! I'm sorry to anyone that actually read this whole thing. I didn't know how to explain it without typing an F'ing novel! Thanks dudes!

 

Not where I'd start. Mechanic is a hack. Don't go back.

What are the codes? If you don't know do yourself a favor and buy a $25 OBDII code reader from Amazon. It will pay for itself immediately.

Could be your fuel pressure regulator. Could also be an ignition coil or even a tank of bad gas.

 

Thanks for the quick response! I also think this guy is a hack. I'm in a new city and went to the closet place to my house. Did I mention my car was there for 7 days!? I am definitely NOT bringing my car back to this guy. He totally pissed me off. I'll post the list of codes. It was many! In the mean time, I noticed when I was changing the plugs that the #2 plug was very hard to get out, and looked like there were signs of excess heat where the coil plugs on. Could this mean this is the cylinder giving me the problems? The mechanic said there was no real way of knowing which individual cylinder was the one giving me the problems. Thanks again!

 

Sounds like he was guessing. If it had CVVT codes or cam position codes and all he had was a generic scanner, the camshaft reset valve is a decent guess though. You need VIDA to check the CVVT system though.

If the timing is off, then yes, it can cause this. It is not normal to be off.

It won't be a fuel pressure regulator, your car doesn't have one.

 

Thanks. He definitely didn't use a generic scanner. That much I know. My car pulled up a TON of codes. I think most of which had to do with low battery voltage. I changed the battery out last week and electrically the car seems to be running much better. I havent had it scanned since the new battery went in though. The main codes it pulled up were 640A (Inlet Camshaft Control) and two Misfire codes. It seems like other people that have gotten the 640A code have also gone with the solenoid route. Any thoughts?

 

ECM-640A is either low or dirty oil, a bad reset valve, incorrect timing or a fault in the CVVT hub.

 

Ok thanks. I can rule out the dirty or low oil, and now the CVVT hub so now I guess it's off to tackle the timing belt... I was quoted around $1000 to change the timing belt. Does that sound about right?

 

How are you ruling out the hub?

The hub is the actual pulley. It is controlled by the rest valve (which he replaced)

If you do the belt and the problem is in the hub, you're paying to have it done again when you replace the hub.


That quote is high, unless it is also the drive belts and water pump. Even then, it's a bit high.

 

Well I guess I assumed he replaced the hub as well... I guess it's a separate component. Thanks again for the tips. I just called around and got better quotes for a timing belt change with the water pump and drive belts for $750.

 

Yeah that's very reasonable.

The hub requires the belt to be removed and special tools to correctly position the cams and crank. That's why he did the reset valve first- it's much cheaper.

 

Great! I think he was telling me these things but I couldn't understand him. The guy that did the work seemed knowledgable, but the rest of his shop was a mess. It took them a week just to get the part, and they weren't giving me any updates on the progress the whole time. I'll be bringing the car somewhere else for that timing belt and possibly hub work done.

 

Yeah it doesn't sound like he was trying to rip you off. Who knows why it took so long though.

If you take it elsewhere, make sure they specialize in Volvo. That way they will have the special tools to set up the timing correctly if replacing the CVVT hub.

 

Dude, you're just throwing money at this. .

How many miles on your car?

As we're guessing I'm still going with fuel pressure. The fuel pressure sensor sensor that is.

 

The belt has to be changed. Needed to be done a long time ago. I bought the car used, it has 140k on it with original belt. Not really throwing money at it as much as doing the general maintenance that is required.

It seems to me like my original problem was a culmination of neglect on the car. Since I need the timing belt done anyway i'm going to do that and see where i'm at. Thanks for the input though.

 

Ah yes, new information. Neglected car has mechanical problem.

This forum seems to attract clueless drive-bys for some reason.

 

Ok more specifically. Code ECM-640A, 140,000 miles. No codes regarding fuel pressure.

 

...he mentioned the ECM-640A code, which is not related to fuel pressure.

While the fuel pressure sensor is common, it causes the car to stall (at least in all the many cases I've seen) and will set a code.

 

Seems like you have some anger issues migbro. I didn't come in here to start a fight, just to hopefully get some tips. My issue isn't a clear cut fix.

 

Hey guys. Quick update. I just replaced all of my ignition coils and the misfiring has stopped. The car runs like new again. I really wish the initial mechanic could have thought of that first, but sometimes if you want the job done right you do it yourself! Thanks again for all the help.

 

I've recently had the same problems with my '05 S40 w/5sp MT...The flashing red warning light, "slow down...shift up", flashing CEL, as well as continuous CEL's that I found out to be P0302...occasionally P0300...(Recently bought a Harbor Freight OBD II code reader - great to have when you got 175K miles and CELs seem to come up more often...Anyway, I erase the codes but, of course, they keep coming back until problem gets resolved)...Plugs were changed a few weeks back (Bosch), so I can rule them out....The P0302 is a misfire in cyl 2, so I replaced that coil (Actually all coils had been replaced in the last year or two) ..but no luck... (P0300 is a misfire on mult. cyl's)...Other forums suggest it might be the fuel pressure sensor, and had some good ideas about buying an older model FPS (Bosch 0261230109) thru Rock Auto for around $35 (vs $180+ @ dealer for "newer" FPS)...Bought this, and will install it in the coming weeks, and m-a-y-b-e the issues go away....But my gut is telling me it's 1 (or more) bad fuel injectors. Problem is that the part(s) I appear to need (8627815) come up as "discontinued". Volvo lists injectors as a 5-pack only (8699450) for over $300 ..Denso (the OEM) seems to have disowned the product, since nothing on Volvos is listed in their latest catalog.


Has anybody else been in the same boat?....Did a FPS replacement correct the problem?...Any thoughts or suggestions on replacing the FI's, whether with Volvo or "after market" products ?