I have a 2006 volvo s40 with 140k miles that turned out to be suffered from a faulty ignition switch that I was able to remove, clean, and re-install. Using suggestions from other posts and internet searches I went through a very painful diagnosis process until the actual culprit was found.

Symptoms-
The first sign of the issue was intermittent starting, I would insert the key and in the first and second position there was no issues but when I would turn the key to the third position (which activates the starter) nothing would happened. When I would attempt to turn the key again it would start right up, so I did not really pay attention to it as it only happened twice within a month...

Just two months ago it happened again but this time the car would not start no matter how many times the key was turned. I called for a tow-truck but before it arrived I disconnected my battery and reconnected and the car started right up. Once I got the car home and shut it off it "died" completely and no matter what I did (and I tried everything) the car would not turn over or even try and crank.

I took the car to a dealership who told me it was the starter and it needed to be replaced, which at the time made sense to me given the symptoms. The dealership wanted $900 to replace which I thought was crazy seeing as how I could buy a brand new starter for under $200, I had the car towed back to my home and ordered the starter installing it myself. Once I had replaced the starter the car started right up and I thought I had solved the issue. The next week I was again stranded when the car would not start, but this time instead of simply not starting the car would attempt to turn over but it was very rough and seemed to set off all of the in dash warning lights when it was trying to start (this should have pointed to an electrical issue, but I was not thinking clear due the frustration that comes with a broken down car).

I did some searching on forum posts and called a few dealerships and heard about a common issue with the fuel pressure regulator going bad and causing similar issues. So I ordered the part and installed it with no change other than now when I would attempt to start the car I would get an immobilizer message.

At this point I was out of ideas, so again I had the car towed to a dealership (a different one than I took it to before) and I was floored by their response "We have no idea whats causing the issues". They suggested that I messed up something while installing the starter and that they would start by replacing the starter again. I had to have spent an hour arguing with the tech trying to get them to look at something other than the starter and the starter wires running from the battery (which I had checked and rechecked). Eventually I again had my car towed back to my home so I could spend my weekends trying to figuring out what was wrong.

My breakthrough came after testing the wire going to the solenoid from the ignition system and found that when I turned the key to the third position I would not get a reading at that wire. I did some more web checking aimed at the ignition system to find that some of the early 2000's Volvo's had issues with either bad wiring coming from the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch itself. I removed most of the dash and removed the ignition switch which was a F'ing nightmare (there is one security screw that if you have to fully remove the ignition switch will be the most difficult part of the job). I disassembled the switch to find one of the contacts looked corroded, I cleaned it and reassembled. Before re-installing the switch I inspected the wires coming off the connectors that plugged into the back of the switch and noticed two small pin hole sized voids on a couple of wire casings. I repaired the voids with electrical tape and installed the switch, the car started right up the first time and every time since.

For anyone experiencing similar issues I have the following recommendations/knowledge to share,

1.Get a voltage meter or electrical tester and test the small wire going to the starter solenoid, you should get a signal from that wire when the key is turned to the third position (just make sure to remove the wire from the solenoid before testing due to the off chance the car does start when your hands are next to moving parts).

2. Be careful not to jump to conclusions before spending money on parts, learn from my mistakes of replacing the starter without having it tested first.

3. Take your time and try and find instructions before removing dash components, I almost drove myself crazy trying to get the ignition switch out before finding instructions online.

4. Don't forget to check the wires coming from the connectors that plug into the ignition switch! Shortly after cleaning and re-installing my switch I had the car pull a no start again but I looked at the wires that I noted as having small voids and had just wrapped them in electrical tape. This time I cut away the bad sections and properly connected the wires which fully solved the issue.

5. I found the Volvo dealerships I went to a total waste of time and money, they never listened to what I was saying and only suggested repairing the most basic items even if I could prove they were not the issue. My total out of pocket cost for the entire job (x4 tows, a new starter, a new fuel pressure regulator, and x2 sets of security bits) ran me $600. The first dealership would have charged me $900 just to replace the starter which would have not solved the issue.

6. To remove the ignition switch you will need a T25 bit and to disassemble the switch itself you will need a T6 bit.

7. Finally, shoot me an email if you have a question. The info I found on this forum was the ONLY quality information I ever found in my web searching and ultimately led me to the real root cause of my issues.

Big thanks to all the people who have posted to this site! It really helped me get my car going again, THANK YOU!!

 

Good job!

Those pin sized voids are probably where someone stuck two pins through those wires at some point in the past, for some unknown reason. Too lazy to do it the right way. Just one more reason to keep your car out of the dealer's hands as every service visit is another opportunity for some hack mechanic to create a really difficult future problem for you.

For some reason people think dealer service departments exist to service your car. Wrong! Dealer service departments exist to take your money and if your car gets fixed in the process that's a bonus. They hate troubleshooting weird problems because (a) they're really bad at it and (b) they don't make any money unless they sell you lots of expensive parts. So expecting a dealer to chase down a corroded switch contact is not realistic.

 

Hi guys! I own also a 2006 Volvo S40 T5 and I'm experiencing the same issues Khaaaaann described in his post. Let’s just say that I buy an ignition switch replacement, does it need a special programing or something?? Or it’s just plug and play??

Thanks!!

 

It's plug and play as I've done this on a 2005. But as mentioned above, it's a PITA getting to the switch. Once you get it loose then it's another PITA getting the switch free of the surrounding plastic. I was totally PO'd by the time I had the switch loose so I cut part of the hard plastic used to secure the kick panel. This allowed the switch to drop out the bottom but now the kick panel has a slight gap which tends to rattle. I really need to fashion a support out of epoxy putty.

 

yes it will need programing to your keys as I am going with this at mo and Volvo code it before you get it so you just plug in and go

 

No it does not. It's a simple electric switch. It has no programming. I have replaced the ignition switch in my 2005 so I know for certain.

 

hi I am getting one from Volvo main dealers and it gets programed at the factory before its sent to the dealers. mine has to be coded by factory as it wont work unless its coded to my keys perhaps mine has a different set up to yours thanks

 

Thank you for your post. I also have a 2006 S40. I am running into a problem with the ignition switch sticking. Seems to be a pin that won't release in the back of the switch to allow the key to release. Could you let me know your process on obtaining a new switched programmed for your car. The dealerships in my area are not so helpful and are asking around $500 for the part and installation.

Thank you.

 

hi yes I live in the uk and all I did was take to forms of id drivers licence and registration papers for the car took them to the dealership and paid £150 pounds for new ignition barrel and the following day got a phone call saying it was there to be picked up already coded at the main factory to my keys then plugged it into my wiring and all good it was an easy process I could get there number for you would like it and I am sure they do posting as well let us know if you need the number

 

hi also just noticed that you are having them fit it I fitted it my self a set of torx keys and had the old unit out in 2 hours and same putting it back

 

I simply bought mine online for a 2005 S40 and swapped the old for the new. No programming needed. No extra dealer costs. Just old one out and new one in plus all the normal swearing and cussing that goes along with the process. Did you say what year Volvo you own?

 

Thank you for your reply! I truly appreciate it. Knowing what you have told me I will call a few other places and see about programming the immobilizer on the switch. You mentioned your cost was £150 pounds was this for the switch and programming? That's about $217 US.

Was the installation difficult for you? Did you have to detach the dashboard from the car to remove the switch?

Thank you again for you time and responses. I know very little about cars and I will be doing this with a neighbor who has offered to help. Any advise is much appreciated.

J

 

Thank you for your reply! I truly appreciate it. Knowing what you have told me I will call a few other places and see about programming the immobilizer on the switch. You mentioned your cost was £150 pounds was this for the switch and programming? That's $217 US. The part here from Volvo is about £172 pounds without programming.

Thank you. My neighbor today said that he would help me install it. Was the installation difficult for you? I will let him know the tools that you used. Did you have to detach the dashboard from the car to remove the switch?

Thank you again for you time and responses. I know very little about cars but, need to learn and try and save some money along the way. Any advise is much appreciated.

J

 

The ignition switch on the S40/V50/C30/C70 2004-2012 MY no need to be programmed.
Just plug and play.

 

Thank you. It is getting confusing. I called for a part at the dealership and was told it needed to be program (2006 S40) Yet, I was told it does not have to be by another place. Maybe the 06 s40 is different. I just need to be able to get the key out if the ignition between 0 and 1 position. Jiggeling seems to be doing the job right now. But, I suspect that will last for so long.

 

J[/QUOTE] hi jes its not that hard to do and that was =C2=A3150 including programing =
and vat which in your country is tax I think if you utube it theres plenty =
on there showing how to do it or buy a Haynes manual I took 9 torx screws o=
ut not the hole dash 2x torx screws on surround that goes round clocks 3x t=
orx screws that hold kick panel under dash then where gear leaver is remove=
charge socket panel which will revel 2xtorx screws to remove centre concea=
l once you remove them 2x torx screws where your cd player is pry of the bl=
ack surround of 2x more torx screws take them out and the centre conceal wi=
ll remove out the way and when that is out the way there is 1x more torx sc=
rew remove that and then the bottom part of dash will move towards you enou=
gh for you to get your hand behind the ignition to remove the 2 x torx scre=
ws holding ignition and ignition will drop down for removing the 2x wire pl=
ugs and fitting is the reversal hope this helps as said loads of torx screw=
s best of luck with it please let us know how you get on thanks martin

 

hi jes its not that hard to do and that was =C2=A3150 including programing =
and vat which in your country is tax I think if you utube it theres plenty =
on there showing how to do it or buy a Haynes manual I took 9 torx screws o=
ut not the hole dash 2x torx screws on surround that goes round clocks 3x t=
orx screws that hold kick panel under dash then where gear leaver is remove=
charge socket panel which will revel 2xtorx screws to remove centre concea=
l once you remove them 2x torx screws where your cd player is pry of the bl=
ack surround of 2x more torx screws take them out and the centre conceal wi=
ll remove out the way and when that is out the way there is 1x more torx sc=
rew remove that and then the bottom part of dash will move towards you enou=
gh for you to get your hand behind the ignition to remove the 2 x torx scre=
ws holding ignition and ignition will drop down for removing the 2x wire pl=
ugs and fitting is the reversal hope this helps as said loads of torx screw=
s best of luck with it please let us know how you get on thanks martin[/QUOTE] jes at top it should say £150 including vat and programing as well

 

jes mine is 2006 s40 2.0 turbo diesel they program it at factory before its sent to dealership so when you get it just plug it into the wires behind dash and away you go thanks martin

 

hi jes its not that hard to do and that was =C2=A3150 including programing =
and vat which in your country is tax I think if you utube it theres plenty =
on there showing how to do it or buy a Haynes manual I took 9 torx screws o=
ut not the hole dash 2x torx screws on surround that goes round clocks 3x t=
orx screws that hold kick panel under dash then where gear leaver is remove=
charge socket panel which will revel 2xtorx screws to remove centre concea=
l once you remove them 2x torx screws where your cd player is pry of the bl=
ack surround of 2x more torx screws take them out and the centre conceal wi=
ll remove out the way and when that is out the way there is 1x more torx sc=
rew remove that and then the bottom part of dash will move towards you enou=
gh for you to get your hand behind the ignition to remove the 2 x torx scre=
ws holding ignition and ignition will drop down for removing the 2x wire pl=
ugs and fitting is the reversal hope this helps as said loads of torx screw=
s best of luck with it please let us know how you get on thanks martin[/QUOTE]


Martin,

Thanks so much! I actually just followed your directions by myself and thing I can get to it. This might be a silly question, but did you detach the negative cable from the battery before disconnecting the ignition switch or is there no need to?

Thanks again! Very helpful.

Cheers,
Jesse

 

hi jes no need to just follow what I said cheers mate